Car jerky on sharp turns

[johnphils]

Your transfer clutches are most likelt your problem. You don't have to take the tranny all apart for this. Pretty easy job.

 

 

I'm having a problem with my 96 Legacy.

When I take a slow turn (like coming out of a parking space) very sharp, the car will jerk a bit, like it wants to shut off. Then, I straighten the wheels and it's fine again. Only seems to happen on very slow, very sharp turns.

 

Any ideas?

[Gnuman]

Nipper, if the C solenoid is prevented from sealing - either because its bad,-( is it 'normal open or NC?) - or the seat is blocked/leaking, does that place the center diff in full 50/50 or in FWD?

 

Another way of asking; if the fuse is in place, applying a constant 12V to the C solenoid,(right?) is it forcing the valve closed or open?

 

The solenoid valve is Normally Closed. When you apply 12VDC to it, it forces the valve open, bleeding off the pressure to the transfer clutchpack. When there is no voltage to the solenoid, or when the solenoid activating has no effect on the fluid pressure to the clutchpack (the case of a gummed up valve body/base unit), then you get a forced 50/50 split. This is fine if you are offroad, but it is very bad on pavement, as it places an undue strain on the tranny in general.

 

I'm also working on a tranny with the dreaded bind. When I place the fuse in, I get the light, and everything is fine. When it is not in place, however, I get binding and an awful clatter on turns. I have had the extension housing off and have verified that the solenoid is working, and the clutchpack is not binding. the noise started after putting the housing back together. I had replaced one of the gaskets under the valve body as well, as the one that was there tore when I took the body out to inspect it. What do people think about my replacing the body and both gaskets, to be sure they are good?

[1 Lucky Texan]

The solenoid valve is Normally Closed. When you apply 12VDC to it, it forces the valve open, bleeding off the pressure to the transfer clutchpack. When there is no voltage to the solenoid, or when the solenoid activating has no effect on the fluid pressure to the clutchpack (the case of a gummed up valve body/base unit), then you get a forced 50/50 split. This is fine if you are offroad, but it is very bad on pavement, as it places an undue strain on the tranny in general.

 

I'm also working on a tranny with the dreaded bind. When I place the fuse in, I get the light, and everything is fine. When it is not in place, however, I get binding and an awful clatter on turns. I have had the extension housing off and have verified that the solenoid is working, and the clutchpack is not binding. the noise started after putting the housing back together. I had replaced one of the gaskets under the valve body as well, as the one that was there tore when I took the body out to inspect it. What do people think about my replacing the body and both gaskets, to be sure they are good?

 

So, in theory and as reported by some folks, a tranny 'flush' seems to sometimes be able to free up a solenoid stuck closed by sludge/gumminess. Once the pressure can be released, a 'good' clutch pack will begin working normally.

What constitutes a 'bad' clutch pack and , assuming normal C solenoid function, what would the symptoms be?

 

thanx

[nipper]

same as above ...the flush not working, and the torque binding will get worse will time untill it chews up the tranny.

 

 

nipper

[Gnuman]

What constitutes a 'bad' clutch pack and , assuming normal C solenoid function, what would the symptoms be?

 

thanx

 

Nipper answered the symptoms, but what a bad "clutchpack" is: there are two sets of clutch plates in the "clutchpack", drive, and driven. when they slip while partially engaged, they get very hot (friction tends to do things like that), and they can even 'weld" themselves together, causing a condition that acts like the solenoid is never releasing pressure. The plates never release from each other.

[Al_SemC]

also my 97 obw has an indicator light next to the fog light switch on the dash. the manual say it will disconnect the tcs (traction control system) which comes on automaticaly every time the engine is started. mine does not seem to work and i get no tcs indicator light on the instrument display (as i should) when i turn the key on before i start it.

Outbacks were not available with TCS (for whatever reason...). I think only the FWD models had that. This would be why you don't see the light come on. I'm fairly certain that much of the manual for the '97 is cut and pasted from prior models when FWD Subarus still existed.

 

This "indicator light" you're talking about -- is it the little red light in the blank to the left of the foglamp switch? That's for the security system. There's actually a button there that says "TCS" on it on TCS equipped models. Pressing it toggles the system on and off.

 

Furthermore, TCS has absolutely nothing to do with the transmission or torque bind. It's an extra function of the ABS system. When it's on and senses a wheel spinning, it lightly applies the brake on that wheel, transferring some power over to the other, hopefully more grippy wheel.