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Motor Assembly Lube vs. Synthetic Grease


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Getting ready to put engine back together (heads and up). Bought some assembly lube for precoating cams and stuff and holding rockers in place. From the info provided, I think I'd be better off using the Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease I have and returning the unopened lube. Right or wrong? I will be using synthetic oil.

 

[front] Lubriplate No. 105 Motor Assembly Grease

Especially for Motor Rebuilding and other automotive applications

[back] Lubriplate No. 105 (the original white) Grease Petroleum Oil (Grease)

Motor Assembly Grease - This white, soft bodied grease provides a smooth anti-wear, anti-seize coating to the internal parts of engines and transmissions. Provides instant lubrication during initial start up before the motor oil has circulated. Prevents damage from scuffing, scoring and friction. Protects newly machined parts from rust. Also excellent for lubricating hinges, locks and latches.

 

Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease [from website] All Mobil 1® products, just like the Mobil 1 family of motor oils, protect hardworking parts from temperature extremes, rust and wear. In fact, the same synthetic technology found in our motor oil is used in our fully synthetic grease.

Mobil 1 Synthetic Universal Grease provides excellent protection against rust, corrosion and water washout. It's suited for wheel bearings, ball joint suspensions, steering linkages, and king pin and chassis lube points.

Benefits:

 

 

  • Excellent resistance to rust and corrosion.
  • Good shock loading protection.
  • Excellent resistance to water washout.
  • Outstanding lubrication over a wide temperature range.

Opinions?

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look at it this way, they been using assembly lube way before synthetic assembly lube has been around.

Its really what makes you feel better, and as long as you use something. I have never used white lithum grease to assemble an engine, as it has no high temp proerties what so ever.

Ive used grease, vasoline (it is petrolium based). For some reason white lithum grease bothers me inside an engine

 

I use this

http://www.valco-cp.com/Torco.htm

 

nipper

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I use synthetic grease. use just enough to hold the rocker arms to the valves and HLA's.

 

I've rebuilt probably 20 engines like that and have had no complaints

 

lower ends?

 

 

id use assembly lube. then break it in with standard oil, then switch to synthetic.

grease will flow around like little blood clots.

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lower ends?

 

 

id use assembly lube. then break it in with standard oil, then switch to synthetic.

grease will flow around like little blood clots.

 

What he said. No synthetic in a Subaru engine until 3K miles.

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not sure if its a myth about synthetics, or not, but your supposed to break motors in using conventional oil. then switch.

i think the main concern is the rings not seating, because of the ultra slick surface syn creates.

 

but... vipers, and some harleys come with synthetic from the factory, with 0 miles on them, so they must think its ok...

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not sure if its a myth about synthetics, or not, but your supposed to break motors in using conventional oil. then switch.

i think the main concern is the rings not seating, because of the ultra slick surface syn creates.

 

but... vipers, and some harleys come with synthetic from the factory, with 0 miles on them, so they must think its ok...

 

That's the story...too slick for proper break-in. Remember that the Vipers and stuff are designed to be broken in with synthetic oil, whereas our subarus were not. I'd rather not risk it myself, and how much extra wear is going to occur if you run regular oil in your engine for 3000 miles?

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That's the story...too slick for proper break-in. Remember that the Vipers and stuff are designed to be broken in with synthetic oil, whereas our subarus were not. I'd rather not risk it myself, and how much extra wear is going to occur if you run regular oil in your engine for 3000 miles?

A) I didn't touch block or rings, so break-in not an issue. Vote for synthetic oil. But...

B) I already bought some filters and cheap oil to flush with (Rislone or/and AMSOIL flushes) in the first few minutes and early oil changes. Guess I still have to work that schedule out. Vote for regular then switch.

 

On another note... I have freshly ground cams to be installed. I think I read it is best to not idle but run engine at 2-3K rpms in first few minutes to break them in. (After running and oil pressure is up of course.) That sound right? (gonna be another thread for this I'm sure)

 

--Ed

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not sure if its a myth about synthetics, or not, but your supposed to break motors in using conventional oil. then switch.

i think the main concern is the rings not seating, because of the ultra slick surface syn creates.

 

but... vipers, and some harleys come with synthetic from the factory, with 0 miles on them, so they must think its ok...

why do you think that is ?:confused:

 

Maybe the manufacture doesn't feel ring seating a priority with that particular line?

 

Or maybe a thin synthetic still alows for some break-in ware?

:confused:

 

What do you think?

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On those vehicles, they just use rings that are specifically designed to seat properly while running synthetic oil. In days past, you had to run a special "break in oil" when you put an engine together that was specially formulated to make sure that the rings would seat properly. Thanks to improvements in design, break in oils are all but behind us.

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