jsspice Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 When I put my Subaru back into 2WD and started accelerating, the RPMs climbed but no power transferred to the front wheels in any gear. Put it back in 4WD and drove back to the house. It felt much smoother shifting than normal in 2WD. Fluid level in tranny is full. Has anyone else seen this problem before? Thanks for any advise so I can look into the problem this evening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowman Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 You may very well have a stripped front hub. CAREFULLY put it in gear with the parking brake on while in 2wd, and see if either of the front castle nuts are spinning inside the hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 i had this and it was a cv joint that self destructed. i suggest the same. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zyewdall Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 You may very well have a stripped front hub. CAREFULLY put it in gear with the parking brake on while in 2wd, and see if either of the front castle nuts are spinning inside the hub. I've had this happen before. It usually makes an awful noise when the stripped front hub turns though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsspice Posted October 12, 2005 Author Share Posted October 12, 2005 I've had this happen before. It usually makes an awful noise when the stripped front hub turns though. The only noise I heard was a grinding noise when attempting to put it into 4WD from what I can remember of 05:00 in the snow like the transmission was not synchronized any longer. Thanks for the input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsspice Posted October 12, 2005 Author Share Posted October 12, 2005 i had this and it was a cv joint that self destructed. i suggest the same. nipper I have heard a little ticking sound when turning corners so could be cv joint related. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsspice Posted October 12, 2005 Author Share Posted October 12, 2005 You may very well have a stripped front hub. CAREFULLY put it in gear with the parking brake on while in 2wd, and see if either of the front castle nuts are spinning inside the hub. I will check that this evening. I'm glad the weather is warming as that sure makes working outdoors much more tolerable. I appreciate the advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 You may very well have a stripped front hub. CAREFULLY put it in gear with the parking brake on while in 2wd, and see if either of the front castle nuts are spinning inside the hub. agreed, try this, but even if the castle nut isn't spinning, look under the car, follow the CV axles from the tranny, out to the hub. part of one side will probably be spinning, see where it stops spinning (i.e. axle spinnig, outer cv cup not...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarutex Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 I had a similar problem once upon a time. I would put it into 4wd, but it was a pain to get back into 2wd. Sometimes it seemed to go into 2wd, but it really was just neutral inbetween 2wd and 4wd. Sometimes it was really hard to move the stick out of 4wd... had to hit it several times to get it to disengage. Turned out I had a mostly bad CV axle. Still good enough to drive on, but it had enough play in it for the tranny to bind up when i did the whole drive straight for a couple feet trick to get it out of 4wd. Replaced the CV axle and have never had a problem since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsspice Posted October 12, 2005 Author Share Posted October 12, 2005 I had a similar problem once upon a time. I would put it into 4wd, but it was a pain to get back into 2wd. Sometimes it seemed to go into 2wd, but it really was just neutral inbetween 2wd and 4wd. Sometimes it was really hard to move the stick out of 4wd... had to hit it several times to get it to disengage. Turned out I had a mostly bad CV axle. Still good enough to drive on, but it had enough play in it for the tranny to bind up when i did the whole drive straight for a couple feet trick to get it out of 4wd. Replaced the CV axle and have never had a problem since. Did you notice any play in the steering wheel prior to cv joint going out? I noticed that while driving at 10-15MPH that when I held the steering wheel with one finger, the steering wheel would dance back and forth. It then began pulling right, so I checked the right front for a flat tire. It was fine. Then it began pulling left, so I stopped and checked the left front tire. It too was fine. I drove it another 1/2 mile before pulling it out of 4WD and noticed that the front axle was not engaging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsspice Posted October 13, 2005 Author Share Posted October 13, 2005 You may very well have a stripped front hub. CAREFULLY put it in gear with the parking brake on while in 2wd, and see if either of the front castle nuts are spinning inside the hub. Looks like it might be the cv joint as it put it in neutral, started the engine and began hearing a grinding sound. The axle was turning from the tranny to the boot and had torn the boot closest to the tire. Are those hard to change out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted October 13, 2005 Share Posted October 13, 2005 This is one of those time vs cost things. Get a price from a shop for the repair. The axle can be had from 79.00-99.00 rebuilt (get a price from subaru to). It not terrible hard if you have the space and time. What may take a shop an hour to do may take you a few if you never done it before and nothing cooperates. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted October 13, 2005 Share Posted October 13, 2005 Axle costs are $55 plus shipping plus refundable core from www.cvaxles.com; although since you're in Colorado, I'd suggest you email ShawnW at ccrinc....probably the best deal for you on axles there. This is one of those time vs cost things. Get a price from a shop for the repair. The axle can be had from 79.00-99.00 rebuilt (get a price from subaru to). It not terrible hard if you have the space and time. What may take a shop an hour to do may take you a few if you never done it before and nothing cooperates. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted October 13, 2005 Share Posted October 13, 2005 Replacing an axle is not too difficult. First one will require a couple of hours of your time. Look for write-up in USRM: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=77 Looks like it might be the cv joint as it put it in neutral, started the engine and began hearing a grinding sound. The axle was turning from the tranny to the boot and had torn the boot closest to the tire. Are those hard to change out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted October 13, 2005 Share Posted October 13, 2005 quite honestly, I've had the best luck with junkyard axles. preferrably from FWD cars. although I wouldn't recommend trying to pull a JY axle unless you've had some experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted October 13, 2005 Share Posted October 13, 2005 I have to agree; I've had good luck with junk yard axles. If the boots are in good shape, the axles are generally also in good shape and last long enough to justify the $25 cost of them; also the Pull a Part yards here will warrantee the part for 30 days....long enough to pull it, install it, and see if it's working okay. Also, pulling one at the local PAP (where the car is up on a 3 point support) is also good practice for removing an axle and if you break something inadvertantly it's not a major crisis. quite honestly, I've had the best luck with junkyard axles. preferrably from FWD cars. although I wouldn't recommend trying to pull a JY axle unless you've had some experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syonyk Posted October 13, 2005 Share Posted October 13, 2005 Figure the better part of an afternoon if nothing goes well. -=Russ=- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuBrat84 Posted October 13, 2005 Share Posted October 13, 2005 And get a punch... you gotta have a punch to get the axle pin out to pull the shaft away from the tranny.. What is it.. a 3/8 punch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 I can't believe I didn't put this in the write up that's in the USRM. Anyway, go to Sears; Craftsman # 42885 WF (the letters are not important but the numbers are correct); that's the right size drift punch for removing the roll pin. And get a punch... you gotta have a punch to get the axle pin out to pull the shaft away from the tranny.. What is it.. a 3/8 punch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 3/16" just for the record. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsspice Posted October 23, 2005 Author Share Posted October 23, 2005 Replacing an axle is not too difficult. First one will require a couple of hours of your time. Look for write-up in USRM: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=77 Thanks for this information. I was able to replace the axle with those instructions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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