99legacy2.5GTLTD Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 Hi everyone, I have been have been getting some shudder when slowing down. I was told this is caused by warping of the rotors. So I went to the Suby dealership and they said for $220 I get new pads(stock), and they will machine the rotors unless they need to be replaced. The car has 125k on it and from what I have of paperwork this is the 3rd set of brakes to go on it. I am also going to have them do a tranny flush $89. I have never done brakes before but I'm sure I could get them done myself but I simply don't have time with work and school. So my question is are these prices about right? I took this car to various other shops when I first bought it for some some minor issues and always seem to leave with a new / worse problem. So the only place I trust now is the Suby dealership. Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 Hi everyone, I have been have been getting some shudder when slowing down. I was told this is caused by warping of the rotors. So I went to the Suby dealership and they said for $220 I get new pads(stock), and they will machine the rotors unless they need to be replaced. The car has 125k on it and from what I have of paperwork this is the 3rd set of brakes to go on it. I am also going to have them do a tranny flush $89. I have never done brakes before but I'm sure I could get them done myself but I simply don't have time with work and school. So my question is are these prices about right? I took this car to various other shops when I first bought it for some some minor issues and always seem to leave with a new / worse problem. So the only place I trust now is the Suby dealership. Thanks again Keep in mind that dealerships probably average $70-$80 an hour for labor. And they likely are charging a markup on parts. It's quite likely you could put on new rotors and pads yourself and not spend $100 (I just did this on the front of a Dodge Avenger for $45) Maybe you can find a buddy next time to walk you through it in exchange for a coupla beers. Or find an independent garage - they may have a labor rate $20-$30 less than the dealership. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HooptyGL Posted October 13, 2005 Share Posted October 13, 2005 ive swapped out all the pads on my legacy in less than an hour and bled the entire brake hydrolic system in 20 minutes with a buddy. the pads cost like 40 bucks for the ceramics from auto zone or napa or who ever. why not do it yourself, all you need a a jack stand to hold the sucker in the air with the wheels off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al_SemC Posted October 13, 2005 Share Posted October 13, 2005 I spent about $300 on Akebono ceramic pads and a full set of Brembo rotors from TireRack. They're absolutely awesome. You might want to take a look there if you are gunna replace the whole shebang. Do not, under any circumstances, buy cheap rotors. It'll come back to haunt you quickly. I replaced my last cheap set after only 10k. Same thing happened twice on my old car. I've learned. It's worth the money to buy good ones and to only have to do it once instead of three times. This is, of course, assuming that you value your time and/or don't get excited about brakejobs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted October 13, 2005 Share Posted October 13, 2005 Brakes are SO easy to do on a subaru. DO it yourself and invest the money is upgraded brakes nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99legacy2.5GTLTD Posted October 14, 2005 Author Share Posted October 14, 2005 OK OK!! I get the message. I will do it myself this weekend. I hear how easy it is but I have never attempted a brake job before. Could one of you point me in the direction of good walkthrough. I don't have a repair manual yet so any info I get would be helpful. I have read some posts about the ceramics eating rotors. Also it is more cold then not around here and I have read that ceramics work better when warm. So should I go ceramic or not? Thanks again guys for your help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 hehe go to www.tirerack.com and go with composet Its on the update garage section.. I'm not conviced about ceramics yet for normal use. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 OK OK!! I get the message. I will do it myself this weekend. I hear how easy it is but I have never attempted a brake job before. Could one of you point me in the direction of good walkthrough. I don't have a repair manual yet so any info I get would be helpful. I have read some posts about the ceramics eating rotors. Also it is more cold then not around here and I have read that ceramics work better when warm. So should I go ceramic or not? Thanks again guys for your help You could dig around here; http://www.ravensblade-impreza.com/modifications/brakes/brakes.html Also, the stock components are not that bad. Good compromise between noise, wear, fade and stopping ability. You could try an 'upgraded' semi-metallic. Almost any change could bring increased noise or increased rotor wear. I dunno Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HooptyGL Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 ceramics came standard on my 94 leg gt. only plus is they dont squeek and last longer then the goo pads. the ceramics are a but pricey but im sure they would treat your rotors better. but literally the brake hyrdrolic fluid flush will only take you 20 minutes if you have somebody around to give you a hand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al_SemC Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 My ceramics stop interestingly. They grip more as they heat up to a certain point where I'm sure they'll begin to fade. I haven't pushed them to that point, but it must be there; physics dictates this. It feels a bit weird at first. You hold steady pressure on the pedal but get more braking performance as you proceed with the stop. You get used to it very quickly, though. I don't even consider it bad. It's kind of handy, like an autobraking feature or something. My only complaint is that they squeak and creak a bit on the first stop after sitting for a while, but they quiet right down after that and they're much better behaved then my last set of Unknown Brand pads that kind of annihilated themselves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now