Rear defrost grid fix

[myfinalcoffinx]

My rear defrost has been out for as long as I remember. I'm finally sick of it, and with winter coming up, I would like to be able to see out the back window for a change.

 

My question is, is there a product that one can buy to repair the copper strips that run the width of the window? Where would I get them if there is such a thing?

 

Thanks,

Kevin

[carfreak85]

I think you could find something at any auto parts store, but its reliability might not be so great. A new hatch would fix it!

[mcbrat]

I just replaced the whole back window

[hooziewhatsit]

do any of the strips work?

 

If not, first thing to check is to make sure you have 12v on one side, and ground on the other. On one of my cars the ground wire had gotten hot and disconnected itself inside the hatch. I've heard this is a common problem. A quick repair and it was good to go.

 

To repair individual strips, you'll have to get a repair kit from an auto store. To find the break, it's easiest to put some aluminum foil on a DMM lead and run it down the length of the strip. Wherever it changes voltage from either 12v or 0v (depending which way you go) is where the break is.

 

I believe there is also a relay under the dash somewhere that could be a suspect

 

good luck

[myfinalcoffinx]

yeah, i definately have power. its just a matter of the window being old and the strips are all chipped away. although i don't really feel like replacing the window, it may be the best bet. i've inspected it with the tester and i've found most of the breaks, and i'm hoping to fix em this weekend. if all else fails, i have another window from my other wagon.

 

do any of the strips work?

 

If not, first thing to check is to make sure you have 12v on one side, and ground on the other. On one of my cars the ground wire had gotten hot and disconnected itself inside the hatch. I've heard this is a common problem. A quick repair and it was good to go.

 

To repair individual strips, you'll have to get a repair kit from an auto store. To find the break, it's easiest to put some aluminum foil on a DMM lead and run it down the length of the strip. Wherever it changes voltage from either 12v or 0v (depending which way you go) is where the break is.

 

I believe there is also a relay under the dash somewhere that could be a suspect

 

good luck

[Mike W]

I believe the repair kit is made by Permatex or Loktite and I costs under $10. Goodluck if you go for it. Hope it works and lasts.

[NVBigBlue]

Might try this:

 

http://www.frostfighter.com/

[soobscript]

I had to fix the broken lines on mine. It's a liquid (metal in solvent) with an applicator brush. I searched and asked at 10 different parts stores, plus every department store I was in. Finally went to the nearby NAPA distribution center, they had 2 units in the back. (None of the 7 regular NAPAs carried it.) Hard to find.

I had 3 working lines when I got my RX. I fixed about 7 cracks and gaps. Only half of the lines worked. Eyeballed each line very close and found another dozen tiny cracks. I hope yours is not as bad as mine.

[myfinalcoffinx]

Mine's pretty bad... maybe 50 different gaps and cracks ranging from small cracks to gaps about an inch across.

Do you by any chance remember what the name of the product is?

I had to fix the broken lines on mine. It's a liquid (metal in solvent) with an applicator brush. I searched and asked at 10 different parts stores, plus every department store I was in. Finally went to the nearby NAPA distribution center, they had 2 units in the back. (None of the 7 regular NAPAs carried it.) Hard to find.

I had 3 working lines when I got my RX. I fixed about 7 cracks and gaps. Only half of the lines worked. Eyeballed each line very close and found another dozen tiny cracks. I hope yours is not as bad as mine.

[wesley willis]

the hatch on my hatch only has three working lines...maybe this is something to look in to.

[myfinalcoffinx]

alright, it's come down to it. i'm replacing the window tomorrow with one from another hatch. the rubber gasket is about two years old, so i don't have to worry about cracks, however, i don't quite know how to replace the window. any step by step would be appreciated, as i don't really want to be stuck in the rain with no back window trying to get it down the the glass shop.

 

thanks

[TomRhere]

To get "new" window glass out, just cut the seal off. Getting "old" window glass out can be a pain at times. I've resorted to laying old blanket in the hatch area, and making glass go "poof", then clean up mess. Not the best way for sure, but it gets the job done.

To put "new" glass in, start by installing the seal around the glass. Then wrap some small diameter rope, or wire around the seal in the channel, with the free ends at the bottom center. Sit glass/seal into hatch at the bottom, with the rope/wire on the inside, and lay the glass against hatch. Start pulling the rope around the hatch, working one side abit then the other. Corners can be a bear to do, some liquid soap makes good lube to help seal slide into place, Gritless hand-cleaner works well also. I usually can get most of the bottom in without using the rope, then use rope to go around corners and up the sides, then across top. May need to use a putty knife to help get corners in, may not.

Above all, be patient, and work slowly. You don't want to break the "new" window, by getting in a hurry.....

[myfinalcoffinx]

so you suggest putting laying it on the out side of the hatch with the gasket on and then pulling it "into" the car? also, how much time should i allow for the work?

 

To get "new" window glass out, just cut the seal off. Getting "old" window glass out can be a pain at times. I've resorted to laying old blanket in the hatch area, and making glass go "poof", then clean up mess. Not the best way for sure, but it gets the job done.

To put "new" glass in, start by installing the seal around the glass. Then wrap some small diameter rope, or wire around the seal in the channel, with the free ends at the bottom center. Sit glass/seal into hatch at the bottom, with the rope/wire on the inside, and lay the glass against hatch. Start pulling the rope around the hatch, working one side abit then the other. Corners can be a bear to do, some liquid soap makes good lube to help seal slide into place, Gritless hand-cleaner works well also. I usually can get most of the bottom in without using the rope, then use rope to go around corners and up the sides, then across top. May need to use a putty knife to help get corners in, may not.

Above all, be patient, and work slowly. You don't want to break the "new" window, by getting in a hurry.....

[TomRhere]

Yeah, from the outside in.. I would plan on atleast an hour or two, if not more, seeing as this is your 1st time in doing it. Myself, I could remove old and have new in in about a 1/2 hour. I've done it many many times, although on much older vehicles mind you. Windshields are a real pain to do, just because of they're size, but I still can do those fairly quick.

 

Like I said, slow and easy. As you go up the sides, try and keep it somewhat even side-to-side. Upper corners will be stubborn, but slow steady inching it in will be the best way to go.

[soobscript]

Do you by any chance remember what the name of the product is?

The one I got at NAPA is one of those plastic-molded-onto-paper retail packages. Paper backer is mainly black in color, white text in upper left.

 

<NAPA> Permatex

QUICK GRID

REAR WINDOW

DEFOGGER

REPAIR KIT

[Mykeys Toy]

The only other thing i saw was the Loctite version.. available pretty much everywhere so long as it's in stock.

[myfinalcoffinx]

Scratch all that. I ended up making about 100 small repairs with the paint-on grid repair junk from Auto Zone. They only give you one mask though, so be sure to have some masking tape if you plan on repairing more than one break.

 

I used two entire bottles of the stuff, and now my grid works perfectly. Also, I had trouble once I painted it on (into a small gap between pieces of tape) peeling it back off. They kept on breaking because the gap between the masking tape was so small, so what I ended up doing on most of them was very carefully "cutting" the "paint" with an exacto knife on either side of the line, and right before the tape started. It worked well, as long as you don't drag the knife across your work, then you have to do it again.

 

It took a few go arounds. The first one, I got a lot of the visible ones, but even then only two lines worked, so then I had to go back through with a multimeter and test for resistance.

 

All-in-all, well worth the time to be able to see out your rear window.

[Crown Loyale]

Thank you for this post because I was going nuts scraping the D@^^N window. Now atleast I know there is a solution, other than taking my parts vehicle window. By the way this happened to my 1990 Loyale. You Rock I'll Roll!!

[ShawnW]

I would disagree with the advice to cut the window out. Its good practice for removing your new to you window from the donor car.

[Crown Loyale]

So how do you get the seal out without cutting it? My Dad almost always did that when I watched him. But I was young and stupid back then so I could be wrong. Now ask me a question about the M16, M4, M9, or other military small arms and I'm all over it. When I helped my Dad and Brother I was the welder or the tool getter, or the gun fixer.

I would disagree with the advice to cut the window out. Its good practice for removing your new to you window from the donor car.

[ShawnW]

Lotsa flat bladed screwdrivers. Insert one thru the side under the gasket and gently work it all the way thru and then work another in nearby until you start working the gasket and window out of the car.