Ever Victorious Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 Hey guys - It was suggested I either try getting Subaru to cut a new key by VIN for Freebiemobile, or use spray silicon lubricant to try to get the ignition key tumbler to work better. I happen to have dry graphite lubricant handy. will this work instead? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby_boucher Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 As long as you can get to the moving parts it should work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ever Victorious Posted October 17, 2005 Author Share Posted October 17, 2005 As long as you can get to the moving parts it should work. K, I'll give it a whirl. Don't really have much to lose, do I? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby_boucher Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 If you can get the lock cylinder out and then use the graphite it would probably work alot better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qman Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 How does the key work in the passenger side door? If it works OK then it may be a tumbler problem. If it doesn't work OK then it coud be a worn or wrong key. The code should be stamped on the passenger door lock cylinder. The dealer has no records for vehicles that old to cut keys from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ever Victorious Posted October 18, 2005 Author Share Posted October 18, 2005 How does the key work in the passenger side door? If it works OK then it may be a tumbler problem. If it doesn't work OK then it coud be a worn or wrong key. The code should be stamped on the passenger door lock cylinder. The dealer has no records for vehicles that old to cut keys from. It works fine in both doors, actually. Which gives me a hare-brained idea. How about a series of switches to make a push-button start? Two throw switches for ACC and ON positions, and a separate momentary switch for start? The key can currently be pulled out while the tumbler is in the "on" position, so the current ignition could be left there and disconnected so the anti-theft bolt doesn't slide into the steering column, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted October 18, 2005 Share Posted October 18, 2005 I use Tuf-oil on the recommendation of the local locksmith. What you describe is a common problem with the early 80's lock cylinders of all subarus (and nissans and mazdas). The only real fix is to by pass the ignition lock assembly or replace the lock cylinder. I've had it done on our older '84 Brat and the new one needs it also. Locksmith had a heck of a time finding a new lock cylinder both times. I'm waiting for an appointment to have the newer Brat done also. Pricey job; pretty close to $100 to do it right (new lock cylinder of the later design that won't fail again; and have it re-keyed so the old key still works the ignition AND the doors). Hey guys - It was suggested I either try getting Subaru to cut a new key by VIN for Freebiemobile, or use spray silicon lubricant to try to get the ignition key tumbler to work better. I happen to have dry graphite lubricant handy. will this work instead? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted October 18, 2005 Share Posted October 18, 2005 Qman has the right idea for making a new key from the numbers; I've done this for a number of my cars. Your idea will work providing you make sure the steering lock doesn't accidently slip and lock your steering. It works fine in both doors, actually. Which gives me a hare-brained idea. How about a series of switches to make a push-button start? Two throw switches for ACC and ON positions, and a separate momentary switch for start? The key can currently be pulled out while the tumbler is in the "on" position, so the current ignition could be left there and disconnected so the anti-theft bolt doesn't slide into the steering column, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ever Victorious Posted October 18, 2005 Author Share Posted October 18, 2005 Hmmm... though Qman also said that if it works fine in the doors, it's probably the lock cylinder in the wheel itself... so cutting a new key wouldn't fix anything, would it? Anyone ever removed the steering lock bolt before? how hard is it? Qman has the right idea for making a new key from the numbers; I've done this for a number of my cars. Your idea will work providing you make sure the steering lock doesn't accidently slip and lock your steering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustyrider Posted October 18, 2005 Share Posted October 18, 2005 Hmmm... though Qman also said that if it works fine in the doors, it's probably the lock cylinder in the wheel itself... so cutting a new key wouldn't fix anything, would it? Anyone ever removed the steering lock bolt before? how hard is it? I ran into this with my hatch. I was pulling the ignition fuse to stop the car for about a week before I took the ignition apart. Everything just pulled right off I was able to mess around with the tumbler inside for some time:) I used some oil and a small allen wrench that I customized to mess with the internals.... I think I was trying to get the tumbler out I never did but i fixed the ignition... basically I think I cleaned it out cause it started to work just great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ever Victorious Posted October 18, 2005 Author Share Posted October 18, 2005 I ran into this with my hatch. I was pulling the ignition fuse to stop the car for about a week before I took the ignition apart. Everything just pulled right off I was able to mess around with the tumbler inside for some time:) I used some oil and a small allen wrench that I customized to mess with the internals.... I think I was trying to get the tumbler out I never did but i fixed the ignition... basically I think I cleaned it out cause it started to work just great. I pulled the ignition off and the back off of it, and found that the problem is definitely the tumbler. The actual switch module works just fine. That's ok with me, it's not worth my time to try to fix the tumbler... especially since I just picked up a 3-pole universal switch for $10 from Schmucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ever Victorious Posted October 18, 2005 Author Share Posted October 18, 2005 I pulled the ignition off and the back off of it, and found that the problem is definitely the tumbler. The actual switch module works just fine. That's ok with me, it's not worth my time to try to fix the tumbler... especially since I just picked up a 3-pole universal switch for $10 from Schmucks. Just curious... anyone with a wiring diagram or know which wire does what? I'm guessing the solid black is GROUND... but there are three other wires, black&white, white, and blue (i think)... anyone know which one does what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xoomer Posted October 18, 2005 Share Posted October 18, 2005 I just use wd40 it works for me./ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qman Posted October 18, 2005 Share Posted October 18, 2005 Geoff, I have a DL style lock/ignition cylinder with a key. If I can find it in the next couple of days you can have it. You'll owe me a favor some day but you can have it. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ever Victorious Posted October 18, 2005 Author Share Posted October 18, 2005 Geoff, I have a DL style lock/ignition cylinder with a key. If I can find it in the next couple of days you can have it. You'll owe me a favor some day but you can have it. Ken Ken, you know I can't pull you out of a mudhole with 2WD. hehe Seriously, all I need to know is what wire does what. If I have to, I'll experiment, but I'd prefer to just know. I already have a new ignition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ever Victorious Posted October 18, 2005 Author Share Posted October 18, 2005 OK... procured a wiring diagram from Mike @ Smart Service. Here's what I've found from tracing the diagram: White = goes to the alternator, then the fusible links @ the + batt terminal. Black = goes to back side of fuse box, where a black wire connects to 5 different fuses (1 x 10A, 4 x 15A), as well as the Fuel Pump Control Unit. from there I cannot trace it. Blue = Goes to the fuse box at a 20A fuse. not a common wire, so not likely a ground. Black-Red (according to diagram. I believe my actual wire is Black-White) = goes to ignition coil + terminal, Full Trransistor ignition, Kickdown switch, and fuse block as what appears to be the + side of one of the 15A fuses connected to Black above. Black-Yellow (wire not present in my harness) = unknown, untraceable. likely nonexistent connection or specific to a GL ignition. OK... so based on this, here are my guesses: Black = ground Black-Red = Start Blue = Acc White = On thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoobywagon Posted October 18, 2005 Share Posted October 18, 2005 Looks good...Mine is a GL, so it may be a bit different. I can go check colors and such, but here's how I figured it out on my own. 1) Get a multimeter. 2) Probe the wires at the block connector with the key in the off position. YOu're looking for 12 volts. That'll be your constant power. 3) With the key in the accessory position, probe the wires again until you find 12 volts. Some cars will have more than one wire on accessory, but I don't think Soobs have that problem. Either way, as far as you are concerned, it isn't a problem anyway. 4) with the key in the on position, probe again. This will be your ignition wire. 5) with the starter (little) wire disconnected, turn the key to the start position and probe once more. That'll be your starter wire. Voila. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ever Victorious Posted October 18, 2005 Author Share Posted October 18, 2005 Looks good...Mine is a GL, so it may be a bit different. I can go check colors and such, but here's how I figured it out on my own. 1) Get a multimeter. 2) Probe the wires at the block connector with the key in the off position. YOu're looking for 12 volts. That'll be your constant power. 3) With the key in the accessory position, probe the wires again until you find 12 volts. Some cars will have more than one wire on accessory, but I don't think Soobs have that problem. Either way, as far as you are concerned, it isn't a problem anyway. 4) with the key in the on position, probe again. This will be your ignition wire. 5) with the starter (little) wire disconnected, turn the key to the start position and probe once more. That'll be your starter wire. Voila. OK, so I think that's where I was getting confused in your PM directions. Constant power is what I was thinking of "ground" as... whee... that could have sucked. hehe OK... I'll give that a whack when I get home tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoobywagon Posted October 18, 2005 Share Posted October 18, 2005 I should point out that it'll be easier if you remove the plastic parts from the column. There are 2 wire bundles that come out of there. One runs the lights, the other comes off the ignition switch. You'll want to make sure you're working with the right one. Of course, it could be fun to have the car start when you turn the lights on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ever Victorious Posted October 18, 2005 Author Share Posted October 18, 2005 I should point out that it'll be easier if you remove the plastic parts from the column. There are 2 wire bundles that come out of there. One runs the lights, the other comes off the ignition switch. You'll want to make sure you're working with the right one. Of course, it could be fun to have the car start when you turn the lights on. Those are already out of the car. I had to do a little re-wiring on the windshield wiper switch since someone before me wired in what appears to be a POT to control the speed (home brew intermittent wiper kit). I also don't have any of the trim pieces that go over the steering column PERIOD, they're just missing (hence why my turn signal switch isn't anchored) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 Geoff, you can save yourself trouble by just mounting the ignition switch in some easily accessible but not obvious location and then use a screwdriver to turn on the ignition and start the car using the existing switch. Just make sure the mechanical stop for the steering lock is definitely deactivated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ever Victorious Posted October 19, 2005 Author Share Posted October 19, 2005 Geoff, you can save yourself trouble by just mounting the ignition switch in some easily accessible but not obvious location and then use a screwdriver to turn on the ignition and start the car using the existing switch. Just make sure the mechanical stop for the steering lock is definitely deactivated. Point is now moot... wife just had a car accident, at-fault... so the increase in insurance rates is going to destroy my budget for freebie. It's for sale again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 Geoff, I'm sorry to hear that. I hope she's okay. Point is now moot... wife just had a car accident, at-fault... so the increase in insurance rates is going to destroy my budget for freebie. It's for sale again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ever Victorious Posted October 19, 2005 Author Share Posted October 19, 2005 Geoff, I'm sorry to hear that. I hope she's okay. She is. And her truck will live to see another day. Airbags didn't deploy, so the accident wasn't all that fast. It'll be a few days to fix... thank goodness for rental reimbursement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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