Legacy/OB Tire ?s

[Distance Commuter]

Newbie here. Been reading this board & considering a Subie for a next car. Likely a '94-99 Legacy / Outback. Maybe 5-spd - had a quick look at one this morning ('95, 2.2L, 215 K miles).

 

1) How important is it to rotate tires regularly?? Do we worry that prev. owner did not do this and maybe damaged drive system?? What's the cost to fix if this happened?

 

2) Car now has temp. spare mounted. Are these proper diameter to avoid the problem above, or do you have to severely limit using temp spare to protect the drivetrain?

 

3) Does a full-size spare fit in spare tire storage space?? I drive long distances + like to have a full size spare in case of trouble - so I don't have to buy a new tire immediately if one goes flat.

 

Thanks!

[shortlid]

Newbie here. Been reading this board & considering a Subie for a next car. Likely a '94-99 Legacy / Outback. Maybe 5-spd - had a quick look at one this morning ('95, 2.2L, 215 K miles).

 

1) How important is it to rotate tires regularly?? Do we worry that prev. owner did not do this and maybe damaged drive system?? What's the cost to fix if this happened?

 

2) Car now has temp. spare mounted. Are these proper diameter to avoid the problem above, or do you have to severely limit using temp spare to protect the drivetrain?

 

3) Does a full-size spare fit in spare tire storage space?? I drive long distances + like to have a full size spare in case of trouble - so I don't have to buy a new tire immediately if one goes flat.

 

Thanks!

 

The 2.2 engine is bullet proof! The drive line IS very picky and Temp spare should NOT be used any longer than absolute need!! I would have PO put at least the regular tire and wheel back on and drive it in tight figure 8's to see if driveline is already damaged. have a independant shop that services Subaru's check it out for ya.

[Distance Commuter]

... drive it in tight figure 8's to see if driveline is already damaged. have a independant shop that services Subaru's check it out for ya.

 

How do I know if it's bad when doing tight figure 8's??

[Distance Commuter]

Does a full-size spare fit in spare tire storage space?? (Legacy/Outback)

 

I drive long distances + like to have a full size spare in case of trouble - so I don't have to buy a new tire immediately if one goes flat

[shortlid]

Two works "Torque Bind"! If the AWD system is not alowing a speed differince between the front axle and rear axle the car will "BIND UP". Be hard to turn steering wheel too pull into parking spaces, go around tight turns on dry pavement. Also try puting the front wheels on a SLICK SURFACE AND SEE IF THE REAR WHEELS KICK IN FAST TO PROPEL YOU ALONG!

[outback_97]

I would be nervous about buying a car that had a temp spare fitted to it, just doesn't speak well of their commitment to maintenance and upkeep of the car, IMO. But I'm probably being picky there.

 

On my 97 OB, yes, a full size spare fits and that's what I had when I got new tires the time before last. The only problem is that I had to take the plastic organizer tray (do regular Legacies have this?) out of the spare tire well because the full size tire is wider than the skinny spare and there wasn't room for the tray if you wanted to close the cargo floor flat.

 

Now I have 205/75/15 A/T tires (bigger than stock) and I'm 99% sure that one of those would not fit in the spare well, so I'm back to a not-quite full size spare. Oh well.

 

Steve

[sid_vicious]

A full size spare fits in the storage area for a small spare? I never tried taking out the plastic tray, but I should. I bought a full size spare a while ago and wound up never taking it on trips because it doesn't fit conveniently. I'll have to check that out...I was thinking maybe strapping it to the roof on a cargo rack would also be a good way to go.

[Distance Commuter]

It's a cars-donated-to-charities sales lot. Kinda like a used cars flea market. You can test-drive in the lot, and you can look and poke all you like - but there's no "Prev Owner" and no warranty. I like it - it's "Ask me no questions and I'll tell you no lies" territory! Of course, the prices are pretty good...

 

No, I don't know where this place is... if you live near a large city, look for a "Helping Hands of America" donations location.

[johnceggleston]

if you have a flat and use an odd size spare on the road, make sure the spare is on the rear, and put the fuse in the fwd holder under the hood. that way there's no damage. you can run fwd to home or your shop instead of dealing with strange shop or buying one new tire.

[shortlid]

if you have a flat and use an odd size spare on the road, make sure the spare is on the rear, and put the fuse in the fwd holder under the hood. that way there's no damage. you can run fwd to home or your shop instead of dealing with strange shop or buying one new tire.

 

Can't do fuse trick the car at the donation lot is a 5-speed not electronic clutch pack! If the prices are like what I have seen at the two "Donation for the Blind" centers in Newburgh, NY they are very ressonable!! I paid $200 EACH for two '87 Jeep Grand Wagoneers (winter plows/off-road beaters) that ran and I drove them home 80 miles!!!!

 

If the car is in the $100's of dollars just get it, fix it up yourself and enjoy AWD this winter!

[Distance Commuter]

Good going on the Wagoneers.

 

This Subie is 8 years younger ('95), price is $1100.

Wife is pushing for another Volvo (have 2 '89s, love 'em).

I'm thinking of getting closer to this century with a '90's Subie.

Dunno if it will fly with "the boss".

[shortlid]

Get the Roo for $1,100. I JUST BOUGHT A '95 SAAB 9000 Aero 5-speed with 300hp. while it is allot more fun to drive it has already needed more repairs in three months than my Roo's needed in two YEARS!! What model Volvo's does she like, the old RWD ones!!! They SUCK in the winter I hope you have good snows for them! The Roo will laugh at a RWD Volvo on snow covered roads with All-season on it!

[Distance Commuter]

This car, my stepdaughter might drive in winter. Grew up on FWD. If we put her in a RWD she might have big trouble. Always in a big hurry! So a Subie might be good.

 

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Hey, don't knock the RWD Volvos for winter.

 

I agree that 4WD is great for winter, but the myth about RWD Volvos is only that - a myth. You need 4 decent snow tires and some understanding of how to handle it, then you're OK.

 

Been driving the RWD Volvos since Jan. '95 here in southern New England.

Never lost control, rarely lost traction even momentarily.

My 19-year old son did though. Experience counts for a lot.

 

Truth be told, I'm usually the guy passing the other drivers.

 

If you think you can just stomp on the gas and swing the wheel, well - you'll have trouble. But Sweden is in serious snow country, remember?? They know something about winter.

 

I put 4-5 cement blocks in the back, and use 4 show tires.

Have used 2 on rear only when too poor - OK but not ideal. Turning/stopping suffers if snows only on rear.

Once I had 3 home air conditioners in the back instead, only because my brother in law wanted me to pick them up. Did the job, in 6-8 inches of snowy icy mess on I-95!

 

Always worked just fine. As I said, I'm usually the guy passing the others.

 

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[shortlid]

Why do the weight, and snows thing with a RWD when FWD and AWD cars can handle the stuff like it's not happening!! My 2 cents, I had a guy in our complex in NH. he had a Rustang with snows all around. he could not evene pull out of his parking spot. I pulled through a 3 foot drift with WORNOUT all-seasons on my '98 L Legacy just to piss him off! You should not own RWD North of MA.

[zyewdall]

Why do the weight, and snows thing with a RWD when FWD and AWD cars can handle the stuff like it's not happening!! My 2 cents, I had a guy in our complex in NH. he had a Rustang with snows all around. he could not evene pull out of his parking spot. I pulled through a 3 foot drift with WORNOUT all-seasons on my '98 L Legacy just to piss him off! You should not own RWD North of MA.

 

I also grew up with a 2 wheel drive pickup in snow country in Washington. With studded snow's on the back, and lots of weight in there (probably at least 1,000 lbs) and an experienced driver (not me), it handled snow fine, and with chains it would handle deep stuff even. Rear wheel drive automatic cars without weight in the back were undriveable most of the winter. That being said, my dad just got an outback wagon two years ago and finally retired the truck, and the OBW goes through snow that he'd have to put the chains on the truck for, without even blinking. Plus it gets roughly 2.5 times the gas mileage.

[Distance Commuter]

Geeez, I should try to sell my wife on the Subie.

Having driven RWD all these years, it's hard to even imagine just driving thru all that snow with no special attention to anything like tires or traction.

 

It would need some extra time to check it out due to the temp spare tire on the R.F. wheel.

 

Go to junkyard - get wheel w/tire ($15), tread about same depth as the other 3.

Back to sales lot, mount tire, do figure 8's in the lot to look for torque bind.

That will need some time off from work, I probably can swing that.

 

Fuel cost of 2.2L Legacy wagon (5-spd) will about match the 25-28 mpg I get from my slightly modified Volvo. That's highway.

 

Modification = electric radiator fan, saves me about 2 mpg! vs. the original fan clutch setup.

[Gnuman]

Newbie here. Been reading this board & considering a Subie for a next car. Likely a '94-99 Legacy / Outback. Maybe 5-spd - had a quick look at one this morning ('95, 2.2L, 215 K miles).

 

OK, I'll get to your questions one after annother. First off, however, I will mention that 215K miles is over half of the expected life cycle for the phase 1 EJ22 (2.2L) that you have in that car. The block is designed for 400K miles without trouble, given reasonable maintainance. The condition of the car now (spare fitted, instead of a regular tire) does not bode well for maint history. . . Other than that the engine is bullet proof (as was mentioned above). With that many miles, expect things to start breaking, and budget for it. I would still get the car if the tranny is not toast. . .

 

a full sized spare will fit in the spare tire well in the trunk/cargo area, but you will need to remove the convience tray and pack the items in it around the tire, or in the storage compartments on the side of the trunk/cargo area. If you go with a full sized spare, get tires that can roll either way and use a 5 tire rotation pattern. THat way you will have a spare that is the same size as the regular tires. If you are going any significant distance you will want that. All 4 tires on the ground will need to be within 1/4" of each other in circumference, so if the tire that goes flat on you is not repairable and yo need to get a new one, you will need to have it shaved to match the others, or replace all 5. Just something that you will need to watch out for.

 

How is the condition of the rest of the car? Is it nice enough that it is worth the potential problems with the tranny/tires? the manual tranny is much more robust than the auto, so it takes much more abuse to cause torque bind than the auto does, and it is easier to correct the problem (expensive though).

 

Getting a car with that many miles on it I would expect the following:

1) get new tires now

2) I would have the timing belt changed and replace the water pump, just to be safe.

3) check the struts | tie rods | ball joints| berrings on the wheels

4) look for signs of fluid leaking

 

That is for starters. we can help you with other things as they come up after you get the car. Do you do your own repairs, or do you use a shop? If the latter, how are his rates on Subaru repair? HTese things are what yo should be looking at when buying any car with that many miles. That Subaru probably still has quite a few miles left in it, but at that milage, most cars would be on thier last gasps of life.