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Running EJ22 without timing belt cover


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I screwed up the old covers pretty good, what with the bolts stripping, the inserts turning, and one breakage incident. I don't even want to ask what the price for a replacement pair from the dealer would cost, so I was wondering if it could be run without the covers?

 

The parts of the cover behind the cam pullies have notches to help allign the pullies, but I was figuring I could make a tab or something to replace that. The Timing marks for setting the timing are on the font cover, refrencing the crank pully, but those are'nt really necacerry because the EJ motors don't have a disty.

 

One other fact to consider is that the motor will be in an offroading car, so mud and water will be encountered. Will this break the belt, or will debris be thrown free?

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Those covers break easy, I broke one of mine when removing the bolt, however I would not run it without the cover, new ones should not cost that much. I was able to run a bolt through mine and put a nut on the back side, so I did not have to replace mine.

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The word on the EA82 street is that running without is OK offroad.

 

There is entrances for water around the cam angle sensor, so I'm afraid that muddy water will be held in there, Fubar'ing the seals. But I'm also afraid of a rock getting caught and breaking the belt.

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The big question is what year is the EJ22? Some are interference and some aren't I think the dividing line was 96? but you should do a search to confirm.

 

If it is an earlier non-interference engine, I say run without the covers and carry a spare with you at all times. Without the covers, the timing belt can be changed in about 10-20 minutes. We run without covers on our race prepared EG33. It makes it quick and easy to confirm timing plus it looks cool :cool:

 

If it is a later interference engine, then the decision becomes more difficult...

 

edit; I just read in your sig that the EJ is coming out of a 92... I say strip them...

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So 1 for and 1 against stripping them off. I have a spare belt. I also beadblasted the cam pullies...

I appreciate the input.

Any more votes?

 

Oh, BTW, the right hand side head got hot enough to melt the plastic of the cover around the 2 bolts that hold it to the head, so its alignment is now suspect when I reinstall it. Plus, the black plastic looks cheap against the polished aluminum block. I think that anyone can tell where I'm leaning, but I could be swayed by a horror story of open timing belts.

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Can I second my vote against??:brow:

 

The worst that can happen if you lose the belt is that the engine cuts out... Now granted this will happen on a 15* night with 20 MPH winds and rain and sleet and snow, but you seem like the adventureous kind of guy...

 

When I change belts on my street SVX I plan to leave the covers off, and I'm debating it for my 97 Leg even though that IS an interference engine :-\

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I say, if you got good splash covers on the front and underside of the motor, run with out em as long as its a 96 and older... interference motors I wouldnt reccomend it. I've ran my EA82 for 2 years with no covers, and have had NO problems with breaking belts or blowing seals or getting sticks/rocks crap in there. I have 1000 miles on no covers with my 4 inch lift on. Part of the motor sticks out below the bumper with the belt exposed, but it still hasnt hurt anything.

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I had pulled,inserted, pulled inserted my motor so long I felt like a porn star. So by the time I got a motor running, I left them off. I have done a little offroading and mud splashing since then and it seems to have missed all the critical parts.

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You can do what you want....it really doesn't make much difference to me.

 

My recommendation to leave them on is due to the fact that any dirt and other junk that gets in contact with the belt, pullies, etc will shorten the life of the belt, and the idler pullies.

 

If you don't care about that.....then leave them off.

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Thanks all who responded.

I will run without covers untill I get back in the money again (spent 600 on this sucker just in parts) and put new covers back on. Josh has a darn good point... The new water pump will get its seals done in If I don't replace them and the Idler pullies/tensioner might get trashed too.

I'm going to be doing a 1000 mile no-clutch-dumps no booning break in period, so I should be safe without. But when I get back in the woods, the new covers must go on.

Anyone know how much they cost?

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