EJ22 Advice

[gen1lover]

Any advice/tips on how to remove an EJ22 would be greatly appreciated.

[NoahDL88]

A question slightly less vague would also be helpful.

 

there are 4 bolts that hold the engine to the transmission, 2 engine mounts on the bottom and a dog bone on top, the exhaust is held on by 4 or 6 bolts depending on what year.

 

electrical is somewhat more tricky, and if you have a stick be sure to remove the hill holder cable.

 

jack the tranny up about 3 inches and your motor mounts will clear the cross member, lift and seperate.

[pearlm30]

WOW, you made it sounds so easy, do you know where can I find some pictures of the engine removal, it will help me a lot!

Thanks

 

A question slightly less vague would also be helpful.

 

there are 4 bolts that hold the engine to the transmission, 2 engine mounts on the bottom and a dog bone on top, the exhaust is held on by 4 or 6 bolts depending on what year.

 

electrical is somewhat more tricky, and if you have a stick be sure to remove the hill holder cable.

 

jack the tranny up about 3 inches and your motor mounts will clear the cross member, lift and seperate.

[NoahDL88]

WOW, you made it sounds so easy, do you know where can I find some pictures of the engine removal, it will help me a lot!

Thanks

 

the factory service manual, or FSM would be your best bet, but thats gonna cost you about 100 bucks

 

the second best is the "how to keep your subaru alive" by John Muir, but i don't know if he covers the newer stuff.

 

The third best bet is Chiltons or Haynes, they have good step by step instructions, but are no where as good as the Factory manuals.

 

All i can suggest is go slow, and if you feel any resistance, stop, and double check. a few minutes looking around can save you hours of frustration.

 

BTW, if you have an auto, you will have to seperate the flexplate from the torque converter before you pull the motor, the 4-8 bolts should be accessable from either the flywheel inspection hole on the top, or through the stampped metal cover on the bottom, i don't know for sure, i don't deal much with the automatics.

[gen1lover]

Thanks noahDL88 for the help. That helps a lot. Sorry for the vague question. It's a 93 Legacy sedan auto. I really appreciate the reply.

[NoahDL88]

It's a 93 Legacy sedan auto. I really appreciate the reply.

 

No problem, any other questions don't be afraid to ask, or search, chances are its already been covered by someone smarter than me.

[Gnuman]

Thanks noahDL88 for the help. That helps a lot. Sorry for the vague question. It's a 93 Legacy sedan auto. I really appreciate the reply.

There are 4 bolts in the flexplate on that car. The hardest part is getting at the lower left (drivers side) nut. The transmission cooler lines are in the way as well as the heater lines. Oh, and he did not mention the throttle cables, fuel lines, or coolant connectors. The 4 bolts to the transmission are at the corners of the bell housing. THe ones on the right side are easy to get to. the top left also holds the starter motor in. removing the nut that holds the bottom in will allow removing the starter motor, giving you a bit more room to work with when tackling the bottom nut. the top two connectors for the tranny are bolts, the bottom two are nuts on studs. I recomend draining the transmission and removing the radiator to give yourself more room. mark the location of the fuel hoses to make reassembly easier. The bolts for the flexplate are accessable through a hard rubber "plug" on the top right side of the engine, next to the throttle body. the bolts will either be 10mm heads or 12mm. Clearance is tight here, but a bit of perseverance will be rewarded. Turn the engine by hand using a 22mm socket on the bolt that holds the crank pully on. This will allow you to rotate the next flexplate bolt under the opening so you can get a wrench on it. You have nuts holding your exaust manifold on as well. Remove the A/C compressor from the engine so you do not have to disconnect the refrigerant lines. pulling the Power steering pump off to the side is also less messy than trying to disconnect it. (three bolts on the front of the pump, 12mm, accessable from the holes in the pully, and two on the side if the intake plenum, 10mm) there are a few vacume lines as well, but they will be fairly obvious. As stated above, go slow and check your work. I have pulled many of these engines and it is really not all that hard to do. Removing the "dogbone" anti-pitch brace allows the transmission to move up and down, so the engine can be lifted with it to clear the motor mounts from the crossmember.

[subyfreak]

I am in the same boat with pulling my first 2.2 auto legacy engine to do head gaskets. Thanks for the great tips. I have been told that you can pull the intake with all the hoses and wiring still connected and set it all to the drivers side of engine compartment any one against this time saving trick?

[idosubaru]

pull the a/c without unbolting or discharging it and lay it to the side, use bungee cords to hold it out of the way.

 

do not unbolt anything from the intake...i remove the throttle cables (takes a couple seconds) and unbolt the intake manifold. lift it up and out of the way. it'll come up enough to pull the motor. might have to unbolt the intake hose from somewhere of your choice and remove the pcv hoses that may go to the valve covers. do this for head gasket replacement with the motor in the car or for pulling the block if you like. saves disconnecting alot of hoses, wires, vacuum lines and such. it's really a great move.