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I'm getting an what I believe is an '86 GL FWD Coupe for free. I posted about water pump replacement before. It runs and drives. Not sure on the mileage. I plan to change the water pump and timing belt. I plan to drive it for the winter.

 

Since I work on my own stuff, how difficult is it to work on these? And is there anything I should be aware of or look out for?

 

Thanks,

 

Rob

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I think they're really easy to work on. Once you get used to them. People used to 70's V-8's don't seem to like em much. But if you've ever worked on a transverse engine car, you'll like the subaru much better.

 

Other than the oil leaks subarian mentioned, don't overheat it (tends to blow the head gasket, sort of like any car), and change the timing belt, because it's probalby about to break if you don't know the history of the car (if it's an EA82 engine). No one seems to change them till after it breaks. If its the EA81 engine, it doesn't have a timing belt, so don't worry. I don't know which the coupe came with in '86.

 

I like your username.

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Other than the oil leaks subarian mentioned, don't overheat it (tends to blow the head gasket, sort of like any car), and change the timing belt, because it's probalby about to break if you don't know the history of the car (if it's an EA82 engine). No one seems to change them till after it breaks. If its the EA81 engine, it doesn't have a timing belt, so don't worry. I don't know which the coupe came with in '86.

 

If it's the actual coupe (looks like an RX without the body kit), it came with an EA82.

 

If it's the hatchback (looks like, well, an EA81 hatch), it came with an EA81 or possibly an EA71.

 

I like your username.

 

Ditto. :)

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Yeah, sweet name. If it is an EA82 (that's the generation) it has timing belts. One easy way to determine this is to look and see if it has plastic on the front of the engine, this houses the belts. There is a great write up on doing timing belts.

If you're gunna do the belts, might as well do the pump and vice-versa.

One thing to watch out for is to line up the VALVE timing marks on the flywheel to the pointer. There is the ignition marks...you know 0...5...10..15..20 and then there are three marks close together, no one knows why there are three, but you line the pointer one to the middle, and put the passenger side pulley with the mark up, and the driver's with the mark down. then put the belts on, minding all the marks. Someone correct me if I am wrong. And please give a link to the write up.

 

WELCOME TO THE BOARD!

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Haha, thanks guys, I like my name too. It is an EA82 Engine, I noticed the belt covers on the front and I saw the "EA82" stamp somewhere on the engine.

 

Two more questions if anyone can answer.

 

1. If need to replace the clutch, how difficult is it and would it be easier to remove the complete drivetrain or just the engine?

 

2. How difficult is it to rebuild the Carbuerator? The one on my old Toyota was a pain in the butt, but looking at this one, it didn't look very complicated.

 

Thanks again.

 

Oh the funny thing is, I grew up with Chevrolet Corvairs, drive and work on them all the time, so horizontally opposed engines don't scare me. :lol:

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Haha, thanks guys, I like my name too. It is an EA82 Engine, I noticed the belt covers on the front and I saw the "EA82" stamp somewhere on the engine.

 

Two more questions if anyone can answer.

 

1. If need to replace the clutch, how difficult is it and would it be easier to remove the complete drivetrain or just the engine?

 

2. How difficult is it to rebuild the Carbuerator? The one on my old Toyota was a pain in the butt, but looking at this one, it didn't look very complicated.

 

Thanks again.

 

Oh the funny thing is, I grew up with Chevrolet Corvairs, drive and work on them all the time, so horizontally opposed engines don't scare me. :lol:

 

Well, on the clutch, I've heard that it's easier by far to get it lined up again if you pull the engine. I've only done it by pulling the engine (had to do other engine stuff anyway). I think it's faster on the way out to pull the tranny from underneath though. Especially since you don't even had a rear driveshaft to hook up.

 

Someone makes a carbureator that makes the 80's subaru's look easy???? I've always thought they were a complete PITA, and way too complicated. But then again, I was used to '60's carbureators without any pollution control stuff on them.

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Well, on the clutch, I've heard that it's easier by far to get it lined up again if you pull the engine. I've only done it by pulling the engine (had to do other engine stuff anyway). I think it's faster on the way out to pull the tranny from underneath though. Especially since you don't even had a rear driveshaft to hook up.

 

Someone makes a carbureator that makes the 80's subaru's look easy???? I've always thought they were a complete PITA, and way too complicated. But then again, I was used to '60's carbureators without any pollution control stuff on them.

 

So do you mean seperate them and then drop the trans out through the bottom, and then realign them and put them in as one?

 

Yeah the Toyota Carb was hell. I looked at the soob and said "That don't look bad"

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So do you mean seperate them and then drop the trans out through the bottom, and then realign them and put them in as one?

 

Yeah the Toyota Carb was hell. I looked at the soob and said "That don't look bad"

 

No. Just choose one or the other to take out. If you are pulling just the tranny, it comes out and goes in from beneath, but you have to remove some cross pieces on the frame I believe. The engine comes out and goes in from the top -- this is the way I've done it. I don't know if you can even take them out or put them in as one piece -- never tried it. Not like my rediculous volkswagen rabbit where they cannot be taken out separately.

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No. Just choose one or the other to take out. If you are pulling just the tranny, it comes out and goes in from beneath, but you have to remove some cross pieces on the frame I believe. The engine comes out and goes in from the top -- this is the way I've done it. I don't know if you can even take them out or put them in as one piece -- never tried it. Not like my rediculous volkswagen rabbit where they cannot be taken out separately.

 

Well in some FWD cars, I found that it's actually easier to pull the complete drivetrain out as one piece to replace a clutch. Usually there are a few things that are connected to the firewall/body. I've done it a couple times and never had a problem. I'm just wondering that with the Subaru, if it will be much different.

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i did the clutch on my six with out removing the axles or engine just unboltet the fr4ame peace and trannsmission and slid it back on a garage jack it was not hard just not very comfortable did it during winter out side and these things a a peace of cake to work on evean a moron like mesays that

 

 

one more vote for love your name

jeff

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