idosubaru Posted November 12, 2005 Share Posted November 12, 2005 ***same thread from xt6.net*** last night someone was kind enough to throw some firewood my way. too bad it was in the middle of the freeway and i hit it at 65 mph. dented my transmission pan (still driveable though) and ripped my exhaust completely off. still made it to work like a dog on three legs though. now i have to weld new exhaust. first time i welded my exhaust was my only exhaust experience, and i welded some new exhaust for my friend. lining up the new flanges, welding them on perpendicular and the right angle, then welding the pipe on correctly...getting it all to line up was a bit tricky and time consuming. any hints on doing this more effeciently this time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4x4moose Posted November 12, 2005 Share Posted November 12, 2005 you say tip, i take it that you are using a wire feed. i think the regoular tip should work. unless you need to get in to tight spots were there is less then 90 degrees. i think the tip that you would need should be long and skinny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted November 12, 2005 Share Posted November 12, 2005 typical flux core welders, dont burn through, let the welds cool. weld as if you were stitching and fill the middle i find it easiest to tack weld the assembly and take it off the car to weld it fully if the flange at the y pipe is intact you can bolt onto that. dont make the exhaust one piece from the motor. this will be fun when you try to wotk underneath. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 12, 2005 Author Share Posted November 12, 2005 i meant tips in terms of suggestions, i can do the welding part. need advice on lining everything up like flanges, pipe and keeping it all straight and such. i figured there might be exhaust tricks i know nothing about since i really don't know much about exhaust welding. spot weld in place front to back and finish up off the car sounds like the way i'm going. right on miles, the first flange on the header is in place, so i can start there. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted November 12, 2005 Share Posted November 12, 2005 If you own a welder, then tacking it together under the vehicle, then removing it to finish is the way to go. I don't have a welder here, (darn it), but I did build an exhaust system under the '82 BRAT. I used my floorjack to support the far end of the pipe(s), and drew some lines on the connecting joints to show how they were to be aligned. You'll want to draw the lines at a slight angle to the pipe, line up the lines and weld away. 3 lines would be best to insure straightness of joint. Then you throw the pieces in another vehicle, run to the shop to weld, come back home and do next section, repeat, repeat, repeat. Took me a good part of the day to finish. I need a welder!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rallyruss Posted November 12, 2005 Share Posted November 12, 2005 I agree that its best to make it in sections with flanges or slip joints to make install and removal easy. I too tack weld the parts together under the car then remove to complete the welds where I can get at it better. so there a no real time saving tricks that I know of just ways to make it a bit less dificult. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 12, 2005 Author Share Posted November 12, 2005 what are slip joints? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted November 12, 2005 Share Posted November 12, 2005 When the OD of one pipe equals the ID of a second pipe. For example a 2" pipe (OD) will just fit into a 2 1/8" diameter pipe because it has a 2" ID. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joostvdw Posted November 12, 2005 Share Posted November 12, 2005 slip joints are joint where the the first part of the exhaust slides in of over the second part of you exhaust, then a clamp over both parts secures them in place personally I hate these joints, they always corrode like hell and you almost have to destroy the exhaust to get them loose so, go for the flanges, maybe get some of the scrapheap good luck, Joost Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4x4moose Posted November 12, 2005 Share Posted November 12, 2005 sorry about that it was early in the moring, you ment tip as in $.02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest shadow Posted November 12, 2005 Share Posted November 12, 2005 Here is the best tip ever for working with tubing that I have found: When you are cutting your prebends to make them fit up, and you are ready to test fit them, here is what you do. Get yourself a dozen or so normal wormgear type band clamps that will fit the tubing you are working with. Take a dremel or similar tool and cut a 1/2" window in the bands so you can tack weld through it without removing the clamp. Get the tubing all installed and fit up just using the clamps. This makes it easy to align everything. Then start tacking when you've got it all set up, make a tack, loosen and rotate the clamp, 3 tacks per joint is good. Take the piece(s) off and finish weld them. Courtesy of Ron Covell, metal genius. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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