Allowishus Posted November 23, 2005 Share Posted November 23, 2005 Just picked up a 82 subaru gl wagon FWD 1.8l EA81 for $200, being somewhat new to subarus I was hoping to get some advice on a small list of things. Given that it was a cheap car it need some work. 1) When it is cold it blows blue/white smoke till warm. My thought is piston rings though I am going to do compression test tomorrow to make sure. So if not rings what else would cause that. 2) If it is the rings that are bad would it be cheaper to pull the engine and get it machined and new piston/rings replaced or get a used engine for it. As well if I where to get a engine would an engine out of a 4x4 work in my FWd car or do I need to find a specific engine. 3) I was reading through the Hayens book on cv joints (needs left and right) It says that you need a special tool to get them out, due to shop cost I would like to do it my self if there is a way to get them out without some expencive tool. Anyway thanks for the help and Ill let you all know how it went, shes a nice little car, body and interier wise, so I would love to get her running well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarian Posted November 23, 2005 Share Posted November 23, 2005 1. it sounds like the rings. Could possibly be valve seals, but those usually don't get better when the engine warms up. 2. A used engine is going to be cheaper than rebuilding yours. 3. I'm not familiar with the EA81 CV joints, but on the EA82 joints you just need a drift and a hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted November 23, 2005 Share Posted November 23, 2005 Welcome to the board, and howdy to a local owner The smoke could either be from bad rings or bad valve seals. Theres enough Soobs in the yards around here, it might be more feasible getting another engine for it. I saw a hyd lifter engine (smoother running) in a wagon at the Tacoma PAP last weekend. It doesnt matter if the car is 2wd or 4wd really, they all work (EA81). The special tool for the axles is just to make the job easier and faster. You can do it without the tool. Let me know if you would like some hands on pointers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allowishus Posted November 23, 2005 Author Share Posted November 23, 2005 Wow only posted 3 hours ago and have two responces, thanks to both of you. Its nice to see sites like this. If Id thought of looking back in the day with the variouse VW's Ive owned I may have had an easier time at it. Though I do now have anouther question. I had kinda already set my self on looking for a new engine so far I have found one yard in the Portland area (im in vancouver so it is easier to head down that way) Though the two that he has there are already pulled with no way of knowing the mileage and being able to hear and see it run. The idea of that kinda makes me nervous though there is a 30 day return. So I was wondering what kinda check system I can go through to ensure I get something desent. If everything goes to what I have planned I hope to find a good running engine while I rebuild the other (if not for best proformance then just for the learning experience, Ive never gone that far into mechanics so its worth a shot) Any advice would be great. Any leads or anyone with a good working engine would be even better. Though be forwarned I havent got much money. thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterD Posted November 23, 2005 Share Posted November 23, 2005 hey welcome... im a vw/subaru nut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted November 23, 2005 Share Posted November 23, 2005 Generally, anything 84 and up will be a hydraulic lifter engine. Altho theres no guarantee of this either. It would be better f you could find a donor car, one that you know is a runner with just body damage or rust as the problem. The only checks that can be done with the engine out of the car is oil consistency, color and odor. A milky looking oil means theres water in it and most likely a head gasket has gone bad. This isnt terminal either, but you wont know how badly the engine was overheated till you pull the heads and see if theres a major crack between the valves. The location in your sig says Pacific, Wa. Is this the Pacific by Sumner, Wa? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allowishus Posted November 23, 2005 Author Share Posted November 23, 2005 The location in your sig says Pacific, Wa. Is this the Pacific by Sumner, Wa? No Vancouver hadnt intended on putting city so pacific was there for the people that arent sure which washington Im in. (Lived on the east coast for a bit, every time I said I was from WA I was asked "D.C.") Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted November 23, 2005 Share Posted November 23, 2005 Ah, should have made that Pacific Ocean So, you are far from local and I guess my original offer is withdrawn. BUT, theres a shop in PDX owned by a board member here who does excellent work. Import Specialties, I believe and his name is Richie on the board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarian Posted November 23, 2005 Share Posted November 23, 2005 A couple of thoughts for you: First, welcome to the wonderful world of Subaru. You'll have a lot of fun here. As far as finding a good engine in a junkyard, it's kind of a crapshoot. You can do a compression test and a leakdown test, look at the condition of the oil and the spark plugs, but beyond that there's not a lot. Another alternative is a donor car, one that's running but has other issues, such as body damage. You could also go for a JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) engine, engines that are imported with fairly low mileage (generally 30- 50K) and sell for about the price of a JY engine. I wouldn't really recommend rebuilding a Subaru engine if you're limited on funds. Parts tend to be pretty expensive, and it's usually cheaper to replace one than to rebuild it. Even if you just want to re-ring it, you'd need a complete gasket set, and if you're going to do the rings you might as well do the bearings. While you've got the engine out is a really good time to look at the clutch, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allowishus Posted November 23, 2005 Author Share Posted November 23, 2005 Well Ive been calling around ,which is kinda a head ache, and found a few prospects. Though I just got off the phone with a salvage yard where the guy told me that they made the same engine untill 89 or so. So that kinda goes against what I thought. The EA81 was made till 84 if Im right in thinking. Anyone know for sure, as well it may be easier to get something in desent shape in a later year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarian Posted November 23, 2005 Share Posted November 23, 2005 I don't think they made the EA 81 after 84 or 85, at least not in US Subarus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted November 23, 2005 Share Posted November 23, 2005 Yes they did. They made Hatches and Brats until the late 80's. I have had 2 hatches that were 86's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allowishus Posted November 24, 2005 Author Share Posted November 24, 2005 Ok so if they did make them past 84 what would I be looking for to distinguish them from EA82's and would I have to mod or change anything out to get a later model EA81 fit into an 1982 EA81 body along with anything else like exhaust, carb(if it doesnt have one), intake man, and the such. Again I would like to thank you guys for all the info and for the patients to answer what most likely seems like trival questions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted November 24, 2005 Share Posted November 24, 2005 The EA81 is a Overhead Valve engine, and the EA82 is a Overhead Cam. You can tell by the timing belt covers on the EA82. The only thing I can thinnk of that might be different on old and new EA81's is the wiring for the carb. Depending if it was a feedaback system now compared to a later model which is not. Actually it sounds more difficult than it is. Its practically a straight swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted November 24, 2005 Share Posted November 24, 2005 EA-82's (OHC) have belt driven cams, so you would see Black plastic covers on the front of the engine. Distributor on the back of the right side of the engine. EA-81's (OHV) have an internal cam, no T-belt covers. Disty is up-front and on lefthand side. EA-81's were in Hatches up to '89, and BRATs up to '87 here in the US. EA-82's started around the '85-'86 era. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allowishus Posted November 24, 2005 Author Share Posted November 24, 2005 Turbone being from washington have you had a chance to check out Aone engines up there in Auburn. If so what did you think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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