hooziewhatsit Posted November 27, 2005 Share Posted November 27, 2005 sounds _exactly_ like what my '85 twagon did after I checked the resistance of the fuel injectors and didn't get two of them plugged back in all the way, even though they looked alright from the outside also make sure all of the harness connectors from the body->engine are tight together. That was another problem on a different car that took a while to narrow down how are you checking for spark at the plug? To set the disty, you need to remove the passenger side tbelt cover, and rotate the engine until the dot points north-west (straight up is north, down is south, etc). Then put the disty in to point at the #1 plug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted November 27, 2005 Share Posted November 27, 2005 The water you're seeing dripping out of the exhaust is probally just condensation. You'll get some from a good running engine, you are getting more of it than usual due to 2 dead cylinders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobscript Posted November 28, 2005 Author Share Posted November 28, 2005 Spark is definitely good. I'm 95% sure that all injectors are ticking. I'm 80% sure that no fuel is getting into cylinders 3 & 4. Soooo... clogged injectors? Pulling the fuel rail tomorrow. In test mode with just the key on, it kept pulsing injector 4 and constantly clicked my wastegate duty solenoid (only one connected). The injector pulsed open for a long time (one second?) I could feel it click in the soft fuel rail lines, but no fuel was detectable in the cylinder. Every few seconds I could hear movement of liquid fuel, pressure regulator doing its job I think. After about 10 mins continuous of this, all the fuel hoses were super stiff and cold from the pressure buildup with none going thru the injector. Started it up and it ran on for a few seconds after killing the ignition. At least that's the way I figured everything... Should be getting compression gauge Tuesday night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvdrt Posted November 28, 2005 Share Posted November 28, 2005 Hey Ed, it sounds like your wires are not connected up all of the way on the injectors, and you still may be off a tooth on the dizzy. If you had to advance it all the way in order to get it to run, than it isnt right. I have made this mistake a dozen times, and when frustrated it becomes more of a PITA to fix. I mean hell, I said F-it and took mine to the dealer. As far as bypassing the charcoal cannister, one of the steel lines only pulls vacume when the engine is revved, one pulls constant, and I have no idea what the third is for. I might have a pic of how I did mine. loop the first two together, and plug the third. 1st one is closest to the pass side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobscript Posted November 29, 2005 Author Share Posted November 29, 2005 Electrical connections are good. Dizzy is in the only working position. I reset it to 0 deg and it ran. It doesn't want to keep running after it warms up a little, then the advanced timing is needed. It had been around 26 deg. I cleared my codes and the only one that came back is 44, waste gate duty solenoid. It only shows up in read memory mode. But that couldn't make two cylinders not work... I didn't take the fuel rail off today. I will find out for sure if fuel is going thru the injectors by giving them a direct ground, sniffing, and comparing with the good cylinders. I was wrong about hearing injector clicking when in test mode, I was hearing the fuel pump. On the camshaft - can the distributor gear be put on in only one position? I'm wondering if it was taken off for the grinding and put on wrong... It was already installed when I got the cams from Delta. The gear on the bottom of the dizzy can go on only one way (maybe two?), but it hasn't changed since the engine last ran. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobscript Posted November 29, 2005 Author Share Posted November 29, 2005 Injectors do not work. I tested them with engine off. Good ones make a loud click, bad ones don't. I think they are making a very very faint click though. The resistance on all injectors is 2.5 ohms. That means the electrical circuit inside is good. Which means they aren't moving mechanically. Are those assumptions correct? Could they possibly be plugged? Or are they just broken? Calling the cleaners... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted November 29, 2005 Share Posted November 29, 2005 Just a thought but you could swap the 2 injectors from the cylinders that are firing with the 2 from the dead cylinders. If nothing changes than you can rule out clogged injectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobscript Posted November 30, 2005 Author Share Posted November 30, 2005 Got a look at the injectors... Both were dry on the tip (cylinder side), good ones are wet with gas (from my test earlier probably). They are getting fuel from the rail though. There were some teeny specs of debris (paint most likely) in the filter basket, but nowhere near enough to cover the filter's surface area. (New filters were part of the cleaning job.) The good ones have the pintle just below the plastic tip, but the bad ones are sticking out just a little. I thought they were all the same when I received them. Could the orientation of the filter basket be clogging them? (The structural part is a "V") Does the pintle retract to let fuel out? Any ideas why they haven't worked? Just a thought but you could swap the 2 injectors from the cylinders that are firing with the 2 from the dead cylinders. If nothing changes than you can rule out clogged injectors. Already did that... everything else has been ruled out, and I found the culprit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobscript Posted December 2, 2005 Author Share Posted December 2, 2005 Hmmm... the black plastic cap seems to be pushed into the injector body more on the non-working ones than the working ones. That would make the injectors open already (at least somewhat) and explain why they aren't clicking open. After some soaking, power cycling, pressure, and tapping... The non-working ones will squirt a little (more of a leak) without electricity, just pressure. No clicking. The working ones sure are fun to watch though. I now have test "equipment" consisting of alligator clips, test leads, a resistor, carb cleaner, pb blaster, rag, and an air compressor blow gun with fuel hose tip and filtered air. Might make a freezing yard run tommorrow.... Are XT 4-cyl mpfi n/a injectors the same as '88 RX mpfi turbo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobscript Posted December 4, 2005 Author Share Posted December 4, 2005 Fixed the injectors. The needle (pintle) was stuck from sitting around for too long. Did it myself because I didn't like the shipping options. $14 and two weeks round trip, or Next Day for $40. Pulled plastic cap off with pliers. PB Blaster on needle. Check needle position, push or pull to break from stuck position. Work it in and out with tape wrapped needlenose pliers. Verified operation. Ran brake cleaner thru pressurized. Re-lubed with Blaster. Replaced cap. Spray pattern may be affected. Now I just have to re-assemble and install the fuel rail. ... and hope that is my only remaining problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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