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ok... i've exhausted the search button...(prob. solved)


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so, there seem to be a lot of threads on this forum that refer to some portion of replacing axle shafts, but not enough to get me started. I need to do one front and one rear on my '81 subaru wagon... i have NOT been able to find any write up or article that so many threads refer to and I've never done this before, my last and only other vehicle was a jeep w/ live axles. I dont exactly want to spend all weekend just figuring out how to take something apart and have to wait the next weekend to get it put back together :banghead:

 

and/or

 

could anyone give me a line on where to pick up a FSM for this?

 

thanks a bunch

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axles are easy first on the front there will be a roller pin on the inside next to the tranny...knock that out and romove it from the splines. then remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the hub. then use a "gentle adjustment tool" a.k.a BFH and beat it from the outside in.

 

 

Rears are 2 count'em 2 roller pins...first knock out the inside roller pin and remove that side from the splines then remove the outside roll pin and remove it from the splines....Remember take the inside off first or your going to have a hellava time getting the outside one off and you will probably have to remove lower control arm and such.....OOO and roll pins only go in 1 way.

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ok thanks thats awesome, will help me a LOT... I have a couple more questions:

 

I read something about axle shafts from advance auto parts(I think?) or something where they slip on and off a lot easier... it something that toyotas use I think, anyone have any information about these? and what are the best axle shafts to use and where I can get them? I figure I will have this car long enough to do this several times.

 

for the castle nut on the hub, whats the easiest way to remove it without air tools? they are on there pretty good... on my jeep I would just make creative use of a breaker bar, some pipe and my 4 ton floor jack :banana: but that might not be the best idea.

 

Does anything need to be torqued or just tightend untill it dun move no more?

thanks again

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Half shafts from NAPA in Canada are a slip fit, easy to get in/out. I don't know if the axles NAPA sells in the US are the same or not. This is for EA-82 axles, yours may be different.

 

The job is a little bit more involved than Mr. Boucher describes. It is also necessary to undo the pivot bolt that holds the A arm on the front, also the link to teh anit-roll bar, so the hub will swing outwards. Doing this will provide the clearance to pull the halfshaft off the splines at the tranny. Then, hammer the axle out of the bearings. Use a block of wood so the threads don't get beaten to bits. Usually, it just has to be hit hard to start, then a steady tap-tap-tap will push it out the rest of the way.

 

I haven't done the back axles. I hear they get rusted onto the splines. It is a good idea to grease all splines when reassembling.

 

Crack the axle nut while the wheels are on the ground, with the hand brake on. Use the breaker bar and pipe, the 4 T jack won't be required. If the hand brake is wimpy, get someone to stand on the brake pedal while you do this. Retorque to 140 lb-ft, then a little more to line up the castle nut for the cotter pin.

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ok thanks... I'll probably have more questions once I get started, hopefully not to many.. I dont know if I should be asking this yet since i'm new, but it seems the axle shafts are pretty common to go out, I'm kinda surprised its so hard to find a write up on the site, I figure it should be in the online repair manual or something.

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ok,if the ea81 is the same as an ea82 style. ive done this alot on mine and i work in a shop. but, the easiest to do this which i have done in the field also and this is in reference to the front. start offremove the center cap so you can get to the castle nut remove cotter pin and loosen nut with breaker bar and you will need a 36mm socket, jack up remove wheel, under the wheel hub assembly there is a bolt w/a 14mm head bolt that runs through the bottom of the steering knuckle (which is what holds your axle bearings and rotor, etc. together). this bolt pinchs the assembly on to the balljoint remove it then you can pry down and remove it on of the steering knuckle, hit the end of the axle with a hammer as described from the previous post ( note if you don't have a big enough pry bar to pry the balljoint from steering knuckle then remove the swaybar end link from the control arm). after all thats loose the whole assembly should just rotate out of the way may want to use some wire or a bungie cord to hold it out of the way, then go under the car and remove the roll pin ( you will need a long punch of the right size, roll pin punch will work) the axle should just slide right off the splines and out of the car. reassembly is the reverse but be care and line the holes up on the new axle with the stub on the transaxle exactly before putting in the new pin or you will have problems it will only go on one way and one way only. the rear is easy as described in the previous postbut it will one go in one way to so make sure you have them lined up exactly. if you have questions you can PM me. chaz

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ok thanks... I'm getting started on it now(a little bit late :-( ), hopefully I should know what works and what doesnt in an hour or so... meh I wish harbor frieght carried 36mm 1/2" drive sockets... I had to fork over $18 for one at the only parts store nearby that had one :banghead:

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its to bad you didn't try G.I. Joes they carry some large sockets and i don't know exactly where in portland you live but on about S.E. 85th and Powell Blvd. there is a tool place that has new and used tools, they can be a pretty good sorce for tools plus any hock shop usually has a bunch of different tools too.

ok thanks... I'm getting started on it now(a little bit late :-( ), hopefully I should know what works and what doesnt in an hour or so... meh I wish harbor frieght carried 36mm 1/2" drive sockets... I had to fork over $18 for one at the only parts store nearby that had one :banghead:
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yeah... I live in the hollywood district and after having drove all the way out to the napa on columbia to get the shaft, I didnt really feel like driving my moms truck back out gi joes after i got home... tho I feel stupid now cause theres a gi joes right out near that napa :banghead::banghead::banghead:

 

anyways, once I got started it took only about 10-15 minutes to get the shaft out thanks to you guys... this board rocks... now for the passanger side. :banana:

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ok... I ran into some trouble.. i got the shafts out really easy, I ended up using my gear puller to push the shaft out of the hub assembly after I got it started with my hammer. I got the new shafts, they slid right onto the transmission just fine, but I cant get it to go back into the hub/rotor assembly and I"ve been playing with it for bout an hour and I'm starting to get to the point to where I'm so cold and frustrated I'm gonna hurt myself if I dont take a brake and try to think this out a little bit.. there has to be an easy way to get this back together.. could I have ************ed something else up with the gear puller? the disc rotor is kind of loose now and i'm thinking maybe its not suppose to be?

 

CRAP i'm frustrated. how hard is it to put a shaft in the hole, i've always been able to do it in the past :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:

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leave the rotor/ hub assembly together don't remove the caliper it is holding all that together and it will be loose, its ok. now take the shaft and try and lineit up as straight as you can with bearings make sure you the shaft attached to the tranny stub shaft. take your socket put it against the hub/rotor assembly on the out side and hit it with the hammerwith the shaft lined up it should start knocking its seft together and evenually line up with the balljoint. after you get enough through to were you can just start the nut you can pull it the rest of the way through. then finish putting it back together. let me know how it went or if you need more help. chaz

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is the axle shaft in the bearing they just won't go through the splines? if you have it that far you should be able to turn the hub to line up the splines, if not then take the brake caliper loose and remove the hub pull the shaft through then line your splines up and push the hub on and put your caliper back on. try this and get back to me.

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in those pictures they do to much work and take to much apart. this job shouldn't take any more then and hour to do.

 

yeah it only took a few minutes to get the old axle off... i've never done brakes before, so I dont know how to take the calipers off, can you guys tell me about this?

 

anyways apparently the splines were going in past the wheel bearing, but the part of the shaft that is wider where the wheelbearing sits, wasnt going in. I got 2 new shafts from napa today, and they were reman'd by differant companies.. they said one was left over stock from a company that went under about a month ago, and the new one was their new supplier... I was having trouble with the "old" new one, so I compared to the other, and aside from the threads and castle nut being differant, the new ones edge where the bearing sits was beveled a little bit, and may actually be slightly smaller, as to where I could get it through the wheel bearing... so I'm gonna see how it works out... i'm gonna see if i can get this one to work on the otherside, if it comes down to it, should I just wait and exchange this shaft for a differant one tomorrow, or should I file down the edge and put a small bevel on it?

 

I'd be lost without you guys, thank you so much

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yeah... now that it drives, I gotta figure out what that clacking sound is, it sounds like its bout to throw a rod out through the block on the drivers side... I hope its not that, doesnt seem like ea81s are known for throwing rods, especially with as little as 160,000 miles on the engine from what i've read... anyways, thanks for all your help.

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