fst4rsc Posted December 2, 2005 Share Posted December 2, 2005 Hello Everyone I have a 93 loyale AWD with what seems to be a stuck heater - defrost door. That is, I cant get hot air to blow through the defrost ducts. AC works and hot air works but only through the main ducts. So, even if I press the defrost button, hot air comes out through the main ducts. Is this an easy fix or am I looking at having to remove the entire dash? Where would I start? Thanks in Advance Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somick Posted December 2, 2005 Share Posted December 2, 2005 That might be the common problem. I have the same problem with my 92. Do you wait long enough? In my case after 3-5 minutes it makes it mind and starts delivering air through the port it's been asked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted December 2, 2005 Share Posted December 2, 2005 are these vaccum operated doors? if the are, i would check for a disconnected vaccum hose or a leak. Most of the hvac stuff is accessable and easy enough to trouble shoot. I think you have a bad vaccum motor or a leaky vaccum line. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fst4rsc Posted December 3, 2005 Author Share Posted December 3, 2005 Mine does not change no matter how long I wait, so something has rendered it, ..... inoperative. The chiltons manual I have is little help on the interior and electrical stuff. I dont know if the doors are vacuum or electrical. If your telling me that getting to the heater/ac components does not require removing the dash, then I will try and dig into it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HooptyGL Posted December 3, 2005 Share Posted December 3, 2005 Mine does not change no matter how long I wait, so something has rendered it, ..... inoperative. The chiltons manual I have is little help on the interior and electrical stuff. I dont know if the doors are vacuum or electrical. If your telling me that getting to the heater/ac components does not require removing the dash, then I will try and dig into it. good luck getting it to work again, the defroster on my 85 GL would need some time to get going and then would blow out the top, instead of the main vents. but....now it's not blowing through the defroster at all no matter what i do, just the ducts. how common is this with the ea82's? - neal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarian Posted December 3, 2005 Share Posted December 3, 2005 The pushbutton switches on the dash are sometimes worn out. They operate the vacuum lines. Check to make sure you have vacuum at the switches - if you can go from vent to heat and back, you have vacuum. The switches might be at fault or the vacuum motor on the door flap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HooptyGL Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 if you can go from vent to heat and back, you have vacuum. The switches might be at fault or the vacuum motor on the door flap. wait, my dash doesnt have a vent button to push...i think my only vent is passive, and only comes from one vent to the left of the drivers wheel when the lever is flipped to the middle or low setting...not the dial that controls fan speed...so the car will blow air if i click a button a/c, heat, bi-level ect... i think my troubles started when my weber went on... ill check the vac lines Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 get under the hood and locate the vacuum canister on the passenger side firewall follow the lines, there will be a skinny vacuum line running from it to the intake manifold. bet you 100 bucks this line became disconnected if your car is pushbutton 4wd the 4wd wont work if this is tha case. this line ontrols all the vacuum functions check all thelines around the canister and the canister itself to start with.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fst4rsc Posted December 5, 2005 Author Share Posted December 5, 2005 MilesFox you may be on to something. My loyale is pushbutton 4wd and it is not going into 4wd. I thought that was going to be a separate and more major issue. Hopefully, an easy fix for both!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarian Posted December 5, 2005 Share Posted December 5, 2005 Sorry, non-AC cars have a vent button instead of an AC button; it just blow air through the AC vents. And if your vacuum canister is disconnected, the pushbutton 4wd and defrost problem should both be fixed by reconnecting it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooziewhatsit Posted December 5, 2005 Share Posted December 5, 2005 also, interesting to note, my 88 GL had a problem for a long time where, if I had the vents on defrost and I went up a hill, or otherwise had to hit the gas for a while, the vents would change to bilev. Replaced the vacuum canister under the hood with one from a junkyard and haven't had the problem since. (it would suck to lose 4WD going up a hill because of that problem) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azsubaru Posted December 5, 2005 Share Posted December 5, 2005 My 91 Loyale has a vacuum connection just to the right of the gas pedal, halfway up the tunnel. When this thing gets disconnected by my big foot, air always comes out the vents. Heater, Defrost, everything shoots it straight out at me. You might check that. It's a black connector with two black vacuum tubes running through it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted December 5, 2005 Share Posted December 5, 2005 the port closest to the firewall goes to the inkake manifold the port closest to the engine goes to the HVAC and 4wd or difflock BTDT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fst4rsc Posted December 9, 2005 Author Share Posted December 9, 2005 So I finally had some time to look at my vacuum lines today. I did find a broken line that feeds the 4WD actuator. Now, the car goes into 4WD no problem. However, when I want to disengage, it takes a few (seems like several) minutes, then disengages with a loud clunk. The line that goes into the cabin looks good as far as I can see. The connector near the accellerator pedal looks good. I tried to remove the upper dash to look at the switches but I could not get it to let go from the glove box fascia. I hate taking dashes apart! Each one is a mystery! All screws and tabs must be hidden! You just know that your going to bust something. So, still some vacuum chasing to go. Will bad vacuum cause a balky 4WD disengagement as well? Any other hints at getting the dash apart? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peskyjiggler Posted December 9, 2005 Share Posted December 9, 2005 Hello Everyone I have a 93 loyale AWD with what seems to be a stuck heater - defrost door. That is, I cant get hot air to blow through the defrost ducts. AC works and hot air works but only through the main ducts. So, even if I press the defrost button, hot air comes out through the main ducts. Is this an easy fix or am I looking at having to remove the entire dash? Where would I start? Thanks in Advance Eric This is stupid, but my 92 loyale just started doing this exact same thing yesterday... Pesky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooziewhatsit Posted December 9, 2005 Share Posted December 9, 2005 So, still some vacuum chasing to go. Will bad vacuum cause a balky 4WD disengagement as well? Any other hints at getting the dash apart? bad disengagement mainly comes from torque bind from driving on pavement in 4WD or driving with miss-matched tires. Normal really... next time you can try driving in reverse while disengaging 4WD to see if it helps mitigate the clunk. As for the dash... there are two screws right above the instrument cluster, two under the lower edge of the dash; one goes into the rear wiper control switch. Two screws on the heater control; one behind the defrost button, one behind the off button. Two more in similar places behind the hazard light button/panel. I believe it should just pop out of place after that. All the vacuum lines go to the rear of the heater/slider control thingy. Are there two vacuum lines that come off the vacuum canister? One to the 4WD stuff, and another to the dash controls? (I'm not sure, I'm asking ) Even though taking the dash apart is pretty easy & quick after you've done it a few times, I'd just want to make sure I had good vacuum as far in as I could. I presume you made sure you had vacuum at the line near the accelerator cable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarian Posted December 9, 2005 Share Posted December 9, 2005 Improper wheel alignment can also make it difficult to disengage. I had a wagon I bought for my kids to drive that hard a hard time disengaging. I got it aligned and it dropped out of 4wd perfectly. Until my son hit a curb two weeks later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azsubaru Posted December 9, 2005 Share Posted December 9, 2005 Hoozie has it down on the dash screw locations. Mine has one more screw that's behind a little panel that just pops off - below and just to the left of the steering column. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fst4rsc Posted December 10, 2005 Author Share Posted December 10, 2005 azsubaru: I used to live in Tempe, bought this Loyale new there (Scottsdale/Phoenix) in 93. I was thinking of trading it in, but, you know, I still like this car. Thanks to everyone for helping. Ill try the disengage on the dirt sometime tomorrow or next week. But, this is supposed to be a heater thread! I did have the upper drivers side dash virtually off. It would not come out from under the dash portion that makes up the glove box. That is, the very right most side, to the right of the center right forward air duct, has a tab or something going under the glove box dash fascia. Sounds like there are no screws or other secrets that hold this particular piece? I will go ahead and be more agressive with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azsubaru Posted December 14, 2005 Share Posted December 14, 2005 You might have to pry around somewhat agressively (but carefully) over there to pop it loose, but there's no hidden screw or anything. The farthest one to the right is the one under the rear washer switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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