indianaoutback Posted December 3, 2005 Share Posted December 3, 2005 I'm looking for good Subaru guidance in the Cincinnati, OH area. Had my Outback since it was new in '99. Rebuilt the engine last winter (at a dealer, not a good idea) and now am having stalling and acceleration problems. Dealer recently had my car for a month replacing idle air control valve and ignition coil pack (also cleaning throttle body, checked O2 sensors). Car still stalls after initial warmup (after cold start). They also messed with 'idle' adjustments and now the car feels as if someone were jerking it backwards when you back off the accelerator (especially at speed). So, the dealer replaced the computer with a used unit and problem is still not fixed. Now it shows check engine light, with code P1507 (I think idle air control, again). Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Any good Subaru mechanics in the Cinti area would also be welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted December 3, 2005 Share Posted December 3, 2005 It may be a long shot, but you may want to replace the coolant temp sensor. It's about $20 from www.subarugenuineparts.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDW25gt Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 I'm looking for good Subaru guidance in the Cincinnati, OH area. Had myOutback since it was new in '99. Rebuilt the engine last winter (at a dealer, not a good idea) and now am having stalling and acceleration problems. Dealer recently had my car for a month replacing idle air control valve and ignition coil pack (also cleaning throttle body, checked O2 sensors). Car still stalls after initial warmup (after cold start). They also messed with 'idle' adjustments and now the car feels as if someone were jerking it backwards when you back off the accelerator (especially at speed). So, the dealer replaced the computer with a used unit and problem is still not fixed. Now it shows check engine light, with code P1507 (I think idle air control, again). Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Any good Subaru mechanics in the Cinti area would also be welcome. Try Joe's Subaru Repair. He off Springgrove. Rebuilt the engine in my 99 leg GT. 513-221-8585. He is slow and very careful about his work. Let me know if you can't reach him. I would never trust any dealer. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
indianaoutback Posted December 4, 2005 Author Share Posted December 4, 2005 It may be a long shot, but you may want to replace the coolant temp sensor. It's about $20 from www.subarugenuineparts.com What makes you think it could be the temp sensor? That's something no one has talked about. And, thanks for your response. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
indianaoutback Posted December 4, 2005 Author Share Posted December 4, 2005 Try Joe's Subaru Repair. He off Springgrove. Rebuilt the engine in my 99 leg GT. 513-221-8585. He is slow and very careful about his work. Let me know if you can't reach him. I would never trust any dealer. Mike Thanks Mike. Someone told me he wasn't doing work anymore. But, I'll check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted December 5, 2005 Share Posted December 5, 2005 What makes you think it could be the temp sensor? That's something no onehas talked about. And, thanks for your response. Because you mentioned it stalls right after warm up. Your symptoms aren't typical for a temp sensor being bad, but it may be a contributor. That's why I said it's a long shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sportsfan1026 Posted December 6, 2005 Share Posted December 6, 2005 I am having the exact same problems w/ a 97 OBW100K Complete rebuild of 2.5L @ 99K. Car runs great as long as you dont idle it out of gear once it reaches temp. If you put the car in Park after it is warm CEL will come on and throw code P1507. (Code P0507 comes up on system test) I have discovered that cylinders 1&2 are not firing when it starts to stall. If I reset ECU, Start car, put it in gear right away I have no problems and have ran it over 500 miles w/ no CEL. I do have the slight shudder when i let off gas going down the road. I am thinking that this may have something to do with the temp guage as it only happens when it comes up to normal operationg temp. BUT using my Scan Tool (Great product by the way) i made a the following chart. RPM/Timing Degrees/Coolant Temp Cold Start,Idle to warm 1400 /39 /72 1350 /35 /91 1300 /35 /97 1250 /33 /104 1250 /31 /127 1375 /31 /180 1425 /32 /183 1475 /33 /183 1500 /34 /183 1513 /35 /190 CEL Comes on and car trys to stall 813 /15 /192 Bring Engine up to 1500 RPM 1500 /36 /198 After the CEL comes on and the car is running rough. I can remove the #1 and #2 Plug wires from the coil and the engine runs the same. This leeds me to belive that maybe the ECU it trying slow down the fast idle by retarding the timing. It then retards it so much that #1 and #2 stop firing. Could all of this be the IACV like the code says. I have tested resistance of the Valve and it checks OK. Thanks for all of you guy's help maybe indianaoutback and i can get this figured out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
indianaoutback Posted December 6, 2005 Author Share Posted December 6, 2005 Thanks sportsfan.....I'm going to pass your info along to an independent mechanic tomorrow and I'll let you know if we discover anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted December 6, 2005 Share Posted December 6, 2005 sportsfan, when they rebuilt your engine, did they replace the sensors with new ones, or reuse the existing? How long on average does it take for you car to warm up in the morning? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sportsfan1026 Posted December 7, 2005 Share Posted December 7, 2005 A buddy and I rebuilt the engine ourselves. Well, he actually did most of the work and I handed him the tools. No sensors have been replaced. I would say that it takes 5-8 minuets for the car to warm up to approximately 200 degrees. If started and let idle. I would really appreciate any input you guys have. I don’t want to replace the IACV if that is not the problem. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferret Posted December 7, 2005 Share Posted December 7, 2005 These are Automatics, Replace the Neutral Switch. When you shift to park or neutral, it signals the ECU. Especially when P1507 comes on when you place it in Park. This is a know problem, covered by a TSB and documented on the Endwrench site. However the Endwrench site states it happens on a Manual Tranny. The TSB correctly covers it as the Neutral Switch on the 4EAT. http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/DiagTroubSum04.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sportsfan1026 Posted December 7, 2005 Share Posted December 7, 2005 So you’re basically saying that when I shift it into park the neutral switch is not working and the ECU still thinks the car is in gear. This then causes the CEL b/c the idle speed is not where the ECU thinks it should be? This sounds plausible, and it could very well be my problem. But, I am experiencing a high idle while in gear as well (1000-1100 rpm) this never causes a CEL but it is higher than it should be. Thanks for all of your help. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 A buddy and I rebuilt the engine ourselves. Well, he actually did most of the work and I handed him the tools. No sensors have been replaced. I would say that it takes 5-8 minuets for the car to warm up to approximately 200 degrees. If started and let idle. I would really appreciate any input you guys have. I don’t want to replace the IACV if that is not the problem. Thanks. You may want to look into replacing your coolant temp sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surfdougyfresh Posted December 14, 2005 Share Posted December 14, 2005 Anyone have insight into the issue described as someone pulling the car backwards...the shuttering...when coming off the accelerator at speed? I've the same problem with my '98 outback MT and have looked at just about everything I can think of. When I feather the accelerator I get the same shuttering or bucking as well. What "idle" adjustment is the dealer looking into? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now