troubleshooting fuel system...

[belizeanbus]

I just put a rebuilt EA82 into my Loyale and can't get it to fire up. I've checked the spark, and double-checked the timing. All seems to be in order.

 

I want to check that it's getting fuel, but I don't know how to decipher the injector. Seems from other postings on the board that the first step is to put some fuel directly into the injector and see if it will start. Where? Do you have to depressurize the system first? Is this just a matter of pulling off the fuel line and putting fuel there?

 

Sorry if this is a little basic. When I replaced the engine, I avoided fooling with the injection system for a reason (I have no idea how to work with it....-I guess this is my chance to learn.

 

thanks

belizeanbus

[Subarian]

I'm guessing you have the SPFI on your engine. If you remove the air intake tube from the top of the throttle body, you can drip fuel or brake cleaner or carb cleaner or just about any flammable fluid in there (I don't recommend ether) and it will fire momentarily if your problem is fuel delivery. You don't need to mess with the internals of the fuel system to do this.

[belizeanbus]

Yes, it's SPFI.

 

Tried this trick, and the engine almost fires up... get a lot further than just turning the key at any rate. So, I assume the problem is fuel delivery. Any advice on where to go from here? I've checked all fuses, and the fuel pump is indeed connected. Chilton's says to tun on the ignition and listen for the pump to make some noise. I don't know how audible this should be, but I don't hear anything. does this mean it's time for a new pump? Thing is, the car ran fine before the rebuild....

 

thanks for any advice...

[belizeanbus]

Sounds strange, but when I disconnected the fuel pump and tried starting it with some gas poured in the intake, it fired up and ran okay for a few seconds - better than when I did it with the pump connected. Maybe it was just coincidental. I checked the current at the fuel pump with a multimeter (ignition on, disconnected the connection and tested) and found no juice getting though... Hmmm... Ideas?

[pappy52]

What I gathered from the board when I had this problem was--The pump (wire) will only run when the key is in "START" position, or when the engine is running. (Gets signal for pump relay off of disty).

 

Tip from another member to test pump for juice, since you have to be in "start" position, is to wire a horn up to pump connector. Then if you are getting power on wire, horn will sound!

 

Worked for me

 

Jon

[ShawnW]

Spray carb cleaner in it like you would a carb car, just pop the rubber pleneum that says SUBARU FI on it off and spray it in there and then return the rubber to the throttle body and attempt to start it. It should momentarily run.

 

You can also find a T fitting that is in the charcoal canister to intake plumbing and pop the line off that and spray some in there instead.

[MilesFox]

when you turn the key to the RUN position the fuel pump will kick on for a second to pressurize the line

 

the fuel pump will run again when it sees a signal from the diatributor (engine turning over)

 

when you connect the green clips(under the hood spfi or under the dash turbo and 86 spfi) the fuel pump will cycle on and off when in the run position

 

the fuel pump relay is on top of the steering column, next to the ign relay

[soobscript]

I checked the current at the fuel pump with a multimeter (ignition on, disconnected the connection and tested) and found no juice getting though... Hmmm... Ideas?

For checking the fuel pump:

First, be quiet as you turn the key to ON. You should hear a hum / low-pitched-buzz from the passenger-rear tire area. That would be the fuel pump coming on and pressurizing. You can also connect only the 'test mode' connectors then turn key on. There will be clicking solenoids in the engine bay and the pump will cycle on and off. It will hum for a second or two then stop for like half of a second, and repeat that continuously.

 

If there is no sound:

Check for 12V on the fuel pump harness with key on.

 

If there isn't any voltage there, it could be

fuse

relay (check for voltage with key on) {Haynes says it's under the passenger side dash}

loose electrical harness

connectors corroded

wires broken or shorted

 

That's what I do know. Let us know what you find.

[idosubaru]

twice on two different XT6 engines i had a similar problem after having the motor out and down for a couple weeks to work on it. both times turned out to be a failed distributor. i got no codes and everything tested fine, but when i replaced the distributor it fired right up.

 

you should be hearing the fuel pump cycle on when you turn the key, i have no problem hearing it and i have terrible hearing.

 

if you put the ECU in diagnostics mode (connect the connector in the trunk), the fuel pump will cycle on every 1.5 seconds as it's testing. try this to see if you can hear it.

[rubuild]

On an MPI you can cross the fuel lines, being the same size. I don't recall if that is possible with SPI

Roo-Builders

[NorthWet]

...if you put the ECU in diagnostics mode (connect the connector in the trunk), the fuel pump will cycle on every 1.5 seconds as it's testing. try this to see if you can hear it.

SPFI, and non-XT: The green connectors should be in the engine compartment, near the windshield-wiper motor. As Miles stated, this should cycle the fuel pump and give you enough flow/pressure to at least idle.

[belizeanbus]

Well,... so far I get no noise out of that fuel pump. Tried connecting the green connectors under the hood. Tried listening with the key truned on. Nothing.

 

So, I disconnected the connection at the fuel pump and tested it with a multimeter both with the key on and with someone inside turning it over. Nothing shows up on the meter.

 

So,... I've checked the fuses. they're all good. What is this about a fusible link under the passenger side dash? What else is there for me to check out?

 

thanks fo all the advice.