Got some motor questions

[Fry]

I have an 88 GL wagon with the ea82 motor, fuel injected. Something in the motor crapped out and now it won't start. I think it's the timing belts. Anyway, I have some questions. I bought another motor for $50 (ebay special) and it is an '86 ea82 carbed.

• Can I just swap the throttle body over to the new motor, or do I have to swap the entire intake?
  
• The guy I bought it from said there was a bad oil leak in the front, it looked like it may have been from the oil pressure sending unit/oil filter/oil pump(?) Autozone has the sending units, but I couldn't seem to find the gaskets. Where is a good place to find them?
  
• How hard is it to pull the motor out? I've yanked v8s out of old chevys and was fairly easy, but I've never messed with a FWD car.
  

 

Whatever help is appreciated.

 

Matt

[hooziewhatsit]

Personally, if it is the timing belts, I would be more inclined to fix them than throw a whole new engine in. These engines are non-interferance, so if the belt(s) did break, the engine is just fine.

 

Way to test for a broken drivers side belt: take the distributor cap off and have a friend crank the engine over. If the rotor does not move, the timing belt is bad. Also check the screw holding the rotor in place while you're at it.

If it is the timing belts, it'll probably take about 3-4 hours the first time to replace them, and you don't have to pull the engine.

 

As to the engine swap, if you do go ahead an do it, I'd reseal the new engine while it's out (front main, rear main, oil pump, both cam seals, maybe oil pan gasket, etc). I believe you should be able to just unbolt the intake manifold, move it out of the way (into the spare tire spot), take out the old engine, insert new, bolt the intake back on. Slightly simplified but you get the idea. Also note that by putting a carbed engine in, you're losing a bit of compression (9.1 vs 9.5 IIRC)

 

good luck, and welcome to the board.

[zyewdall]

Well, subaru's are not set up like a front wheel drive car at all. Those are a complete pain in the neck to get out because you have to unbolt axles and pull engines and trannies together, plus the darn thing is installed sideways and you can't get to the back of it. The subaru is actually almost the same setup as a V8 chevy. The engine is longitudinally mounted, and you simply unbolt it from the tranny and motor mounts, and lift it out.

 

But if it's just a broken timing belt, there's no reason to pull the engine at all. Just put in a new timing belt.

[Subarian]

If you have the skills to replace a V8 Chevy, you probably won't have a hard time with your timing belts. I would also recommend that route, for several reasons: 1. It's easier than messing with an engine swap/ intakes/ resealing. 2. You know your engine and how it runs. If it's the timing belts, it will run just like it did before. 3. As hoozie said, you're going to lose some power going to the carbed block, and EA82s don't have a lot to spare.

 

If you decide to swap motors anyway, swap the entire intake manifold. It's actually easier. Just disconnect vacuum lines and wires running to the front (carbon canister, for example) and unbolt the manifold. Then lay it back on the spare tire well and it's out of your way. You have a lot less to reconnect when you're done installing the engine.

[somick]

 

Way to test for a broken drivers side belt: take the distributor cap off and have a friend crank the engine over. If the rotor does not move, the timing belt is bad. Also check the screw holding the rotor in place while you're at it.

 

A very easy way to check timing belts:

 

There are two small windows in the front timing belt covers. Just pop them with a screwdriver and stick your finger inside. DON'T crank the engine!!!

[hooziewhatsit]

A very easy way to check timing belts:

 

There are two small windows in the front timing belt covers. Just pop them with a screwdriver and stick your finger inside. DON'T crank the engine!!!

 

only problem with that is sometimes the drivers side belt will strip some teeth off of it, as was the case when my tbelt blew. In that case, the belt itself will appear to be fine until you get it out, or get the cover completely off and see the teeth fall out.

 

I once saw a car in the junkyard with a stripped timing belt. I really hope it didn't get junked over it

[Fry]

Ok well here's what I know now. The motor that was bought reportedly had a bad oil leak. I believe that to be from the oil pressure sending unit as it is rusted bad on the bottom. Then I decided to check the belts on the bad motor, just out of curiosity. Well, the right side is a little loose, but the left... It's off the idler pulley, the cam housing (the plastic cover) is melted, and the belt is frayed. I was going to put it back on, when I found that the idler pulley has no bearings. So, I guess that I need a belt, idler pulley bearing, and both halves of the plastic cover. I really don't want to take parts off of the other motor, even though it has relatively new belts and good plastic. But maybe I will anyway and keep an eye out for what I took off.

 

Thanks for the advise.

 

BTW, this car is being fixed to replace the Pontiac that was bought to replace the Soob when it died.

 

About skills, I have skills, I just like to know what I am getting into before I start.

[zyewdall]

So, I guess that I need a belt, idler pulley bearing, and both halves of the plastic cover. I really don't want to take parts off of the other motor, even though it has relatively new belts and good plastic. But maybe I will anyway and keep an eye out for what I took off.

.

 

You can run the belts without the covers. Alot of people do. You will need the new idler pully though......