Adam N.D.J. Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 Ohkay everyone, guess it's time to step out and show ya what I've been working on. This post was spawned by Rollie's post about the rear locking hubs. This is something that I've been working on for a little while now, although not for the locking reason, but for stronger axles and hubs, cause my Brat is a rear axle eating beast. Here is how it works. If you have examined a Nissan 720 front hub, the caliper bracket and steering arme bolt onto the hub, from the back. Basically what I am doing, is unbolt that bracket from the back, machine a new one that is virtually the same, except the opposite side of the caliper mounts is a 3 bolt flange that matches the flange on the Subaru trailing arm. So it would bolt in place of the subaru rear hub assembly. I still need to work out the lateral link (The one that runs to about halfway between the axle mount and trailing link mount.) Plus I need to get off my tuchkus and actually machine out the flanges for the hubs, and rebuild the hubs I got. I'm still not sure on which axles I"m going to be useing, as it would have to be the Nissan ones, (not a problem, the flange bolts right into our diffs, so that wouldn't have to change.) It's just a matter of getting the length right. Here are some pics for reference: This is the complete Nissan hub, from the back (axle) side. You can see the two caliper bolts on the left, the steering arm on the right, and four bolts that hold the flange to the hub surrounding the center hole: Here is the stripped hub, the very inner ring is the axle bearing, a simple little roller bearing, not much needed as the hub rides on it's own set of bearings, and none of the load is on the axle. 4 bolt holes plainly visable: This is the flange point of the Subaru trailing link. Simple flat plate, not really complicated at all. Just need to be pretty precise to make sure everything is lines up all right: Here is a rough drawing of the new flange that would bolt the Nissan hub to the Soobie arm: I'll get some pics up what it's all done and assembled, but at the rate that I've gotten to work on it, that should be sometime next year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrap487 Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 nice work... cant wait to see how it turns out. keep us posted, I have a 720 4x4 that has 320k miles, its running like a champ but if it ever decides to kick the bucket I already got 3 plans in my head for what I'm gonna do with it... SUBASAN! oh yeah, how where you planning on making that plate? I need to take a closer look.. but for that it seems like it would have to be DEAD ON when it comes to accuracy and precision. not something someone could hammer out with a torch grinder and drill press? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam N.D.J. Posted December 8, 2005 Author Share Posted December 8, 2005 Not really too much to it. Just take off the old plate, trace it out to the metal, then useing a template lay in the new part for the Soob flange. Then do it again for the other side. Can be done with a torch and grinder, just takes a lot longer to get it more precise. This isn't rocket science though, can have a variance of a MM or two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike W Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 I agree that the machining doesn't look that tough. Santa definitely needs to bring Adam a Bridgeport. Bet he'd make good use of one. But hey if you don't have time yourself and it's just not gettin done, how about let the local trade school machine it for ya'? (If anyone is still teaching metal shop that is.) I've heard that works pretty good...you supply the material and drawing, they cut and get some extra credit points. Back when I was actually doing stuff, I was looking at 300zx turbo rear end components. Even thought of even using the complete rear end, modified for more travel, hydraulic ram to actuate the rear steer, and air locker in the R200. That Nissan is pretty strong and I figured those axles should be good for 33" tires. Might be worth checking out if you haven't already. Anyhow, keep going for it Adam. Good to see R&D McGuyvering in progress! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jibs Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 Good Job! Keep up the work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry DeMoss Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 Nice Job!I like to see people think outside the box or so to speak on stuff like this.More power to ya!I am interested to see what you come up with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 Adam if you need any help ( machine work, welding etc. CAD drawing ) I will volunter myself and equiptment Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Cal Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 www.emachineshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrap487 Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 www.emachineshop.com wow...I'm checkin them out... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted December 17, 2005 Share Posted December 17, 2005 how your progress? Ohkay everyone, guess it's time to step out and show ya what I've been working on. This post was spawned by Rollie's post about the rear locking hubs. This is something that I've been working on for a little while now, although not for the locking reason, but for stronger axles and hubs, cause my Brat is a rear axle eating beast. Here is how it works. If you have examined a Nissan 720 front hub, the caliper bracket and steering arme bolt onto the hub, from the back. Basically what I am doing, is unbolt that bracket from the back, machine a new one that is virtually the same, except the opposite side of the caliper mounts is a 3 bolt flange that matches the flange on the Subaru trailing arm. So it would bolt in place of the subaru rear hub assembly. I still need to work out the lateral link (The one that runs to about halfway between the axle mount and trailing link mount.) Plus I need to get off my tuchkus and actually machine out the flanges for the hubs, and rebuild the hubs I got. I'm still not sure on which axles I"m going to be useing, as it would have to be the Nissan ones, (not a problem, the flange bolts right into our diffs, so that wouldn't have to change.) It's just a matter of getting the length right. Here are some pics for reference: This is the complete Nissan hub, from the back (axle) side. You can see the two caliper bolts on the left, the steering arm on the right, and four bolts that hold the flange to the hub surrounding the center hole: Here is the stripped hub, the very inner ring is the axle bearing, a simple little roller bearing, not much needed as the hub rides on it's own set of bearings, and none of the load is on the axle. 4 bolt holes plainly visable: This is the flange point of the Subaru trailing link. Simple flat plate, not really complicated at all. Just need to be pretty precise to make sure everything is lines up all right: Here is a rough drawing of the new flange that would bolt the Nissan hub to the Soobie arm: I'll get some pics up what it's all done and assembled, but at the rate that I've gotten to work on it, that should be sometime next year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam N.D.J. Posted December 18, 2005 Author Share Posted December 18, 2005 Very slow. It the holiday season, way too much to do, not enough time to do it. The way thing are right now, I'll prolly get to drive the Brat once with this set-up on it before I go to Afgan. I will be sure to let everyone know how it's coming along. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrap487 Posted January 3, 2006 Share Posted January 3, 2006 anything new on this project yet? I'm very interested, if no more news I'm tempted to go out and do it myself in a week or so. I have a question about the rear end on our subarus, if we have to use a nissan half shaft, will it work with our rear differantial or will we have to make some modification to it, or use a differant rear end? if we use a differant rear end, that probably means a differant gear ratio too, which means we need the same up front, which would mean this modification is only really good for a tcase rig? in which case, whats the point in putting hubs on the rear? so we can go back to fwd after adding a tcase? why would we want that? thanks! cant wait to hear about it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam N.D.J. Posted January 3, 2006 Author Share Posted January 3, 2006 YOu can refer to the following post for how things are going: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49835 Proll won't happen for me for a while. If I even stick with independant suspension. As for useing the Nissan axles, not a problem, all you have to do is take the stub shaft out of the Nissan diff and install it into yours. Don't even have to remove your diff. The stubs bolt in just like ours do, but have a 6 bolt flange that the axle bolts too, instead of sliding on with a roll pin. Lotsa luck to ya. Remember you have to make a new lateral link to connect to the torsion housing thats welded to the "adapter plate" cause the stock spindle is part of that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrap487 Posted January 3, 2006 Share Posted January 3, 2006 sorry to hear about that yeah, I remembered why I wanted hubs on the rear, so I can weld it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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