Distributor Installation on 86 Subaru GL hatch

[Phyphor]

Anyone got tips on this? The dist. was pulled to change cap and rotor (I got big hands, so pushing the little clips back on proved to be too difficult with the dist installed,)

 

Problem is, I screwed up, pulled the wires and apparently got it out of time. I've seen mention of 'timing' marks on the crankshaft pulley. How do I use these to find position one on the dist cap (I know the direction of rotation is counter clockwise, and I know the firing order is 1-3-2-4)

 

So, bascially, what I need to know is:

1 - How to get it close enough in time to start

2 - How to find the cylinder 1 pin on the cap

[Subarian]

Here's the deal: what you really need to do is to get #1 firing on the compression stroke. So the first thing you need to do is find the compression stroke. Pull the #1 plug (right front of the engine, (passenger side front)). Put your finger in the hole and turn the crank (by hand, with a ratchet). As you approach TDC on the compression stroke, you'll feel pressure build up in the cylinder. On the exhaust stroke, there's no pressure. OK, so now stop at the specified timing (depending on which engine, probably either 8 or 20 degrees BTDC).

 

Now you just need to install the distributor. #1 is normally closest to the left wheel well, but it doesn't really matter. You need to make a mark on the base of the distributor near the top with a pencil directly below where the #1 wire will be. Now install the distributor so that the rotor is pointing at the mark you made. Install the rest of the wires and you should fire right up.

[NVBigBlue]

Not a big deal really.....but, since the disty came out, (and the crank probably isn't @ TDC for #1) you're going to have to set #1 to TDC. The way I do it is: (this works for all engines BTW...) The first part of step 1 can be skipped sometimes....

 

1. Pull all the spark plugs (makes it easier to turn over engine by hand) If not all, at least #1 spark plug.

2. Put finger over #1 spark plug hole

3. Turn engine over by hand using a socket on the crank pulley bolt, until you just start getting air pushing out the #1 plug hole. Make sure you're turning the engine the correct way, e.g., the way it turns when it's running.

When you get air pushing out the hole, the piston is on the compression stroke...stop turning the engine.

4. Remove timing cover plug (if it's still there....) and as you slowly turn the engine, look for the timing marks on the flywheel to come around. When they come up, set 0 (zero) at the timing mark. Now the #1 piston is @ TDC.

5. Put disty cap on disty.

6. Pick a terminal to make as #1 (I can't remember what mine is, but it doesn't really matter.....)

7. Use a pencil or marker to make a mark on the distributor housing, right below the terminal you choose to make number one.

8. Remove disty cap.

9. Line up rotor pointing to the mark you just made on the housing.

10. Insert disty into block. You might have play with this a little to get everything set. The goal is to get the disty in the block with the clamp bolt about in the middle of the adjustment slot, while still having the rotor point to the mark you just made. You may have to pull the disty up slightly turn the rotor one gear tooth left or right and then put it back in to get it right. Make sure you install the clamp bolt to keep it from jumping out while timing the engine.

11. Once the disty is back in, put the cap on, and install the wires starting with #1, and following the firing order install the rest. Install spark plugs.

12. Engine should start no problem.

13. Time the engine to specs, or your personal favorite settings.

14. Tighten clamp bolt.

Good luck,

NV

 

If I missed anything, I'm sure someone will gently point it out to me....

[Phyphor]

Not a big deal really.....but, since the disty came out, (and the crank probably isn't @ TDC for #1) you're going to have to set #1 to TDC. The way I do it is: (this works for all engines BTW...) The first part of step 1 can be skipped sometimes....

 

1. Pull all the spark plugs (makes it easier to turn over engine by hand) If not all, at least #1 spark plug.

2. Put finger over #1 spark plug hole

3. Turn engine over by hand using a socket on the crank pulley bolt, until you just start getting air pushing out the #1 plug hole. Make sure you're turning the engine the correct way, e.g., the way it turns when it's running.

When you get air pushing out the hole, the piston is on the compression stroke...stop turning the engine.

4. Remove timing cover plug (if it's still there....) and as you slowly turn the engine, look for the timing marks on the flywheel to come around. When they come up, set 0 (zero) at the timing mark. Now the #1 piston is @ TDC.

 

Do the timing marks look like dimples? Or are they supposed to be paint?

 

Had it half-rump roast running yesterday, but wouldn't idle, still trying to get it to time,but you're right, that limited disty motion is a SEVERE PITA.

[Subarian]

No, the timing marks are lines, and they have numbers at 0, 10, and 20.

[Phyphor]

Ok, quick followup - the car's running great, except for a minor problem.... and this doesn't seem to be allowing me to post a new thread, so here's the deal. The car has developed a bit of a shimmy (wheel jerks back and forth) at around 60 mph or so.... is this caused by the axle nuts? Or struts?

[86BRATMAN]

Tires could be out of balance. Tie rods getting worn or ball joints as well.

[daeron]

lots of things could cause this. For an amateur mechanic, the How To Keep Your Subaru Alive book has a VERY good walk through on trying to isolate the cause of a wheel shimmy. Search for HTKYSA and you should be able to find a link to download it..