fredrogers Posted December 9, 2005 Share Posted December 9, 2005 I have a 87 gl wagon 4wd 5sp. Well here is my sad story: I jumped in my wagon to run and get some gas. When I depressed the clutch it made this high pitched "whirring" noise. When I let off the clutch it stopped. After about a mile of driving it stopped making the noise. After I got back in my car it would not go in to gear. So I turned the motor off and put it in gear and jumped into motion. I can get it to shift, barely, if I time it right and push hard on the stick. So I am thinking maybe the throw-out bearing or clutch adjustment? I tried to adjust my clutch by tightening the 13mm nut on the end of the clutch fork. When I do this the nut will just spin back to it original position. Is there a good tip to adjust my clutch? Or is it my throw-out bearing gone bad? If so how hard is it to replace? Thanks! -=fred=- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrogers Posted December 10, 2005 Author Share Posted December 10, 2005 I looked a little harder and I saw that the Teflon lining of the clutch cable is coming out. It looks like it might have been stopping my clutch from fulling engaging. I trimmed off the white mess and hope to finish adjusting the clutch cable on saturday. Hope that all it was. -=fred=- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarian Posted December 10, 2005 Share Posted December 10, 2005 Your clutch cable should have two nuts on the adjustment threads. The second nut is a jam nut. It's there to maintain the adjustment. If you don't have it, your clutch can't stay adjusted. It works by jamming it against the adjustment nut with a wrench while holding the adjusting nut with another wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrogers Posted December 10, 2005 Author Share Posted December 10, 2005 Your clutch cable should have two nuts on the adjustment threads. The second nut is a jam nut. It's there to maintain the adjustment. If you don't have it, your clutch can't stay adjusted. It works by jamming it against the adjustment nut with a wrench while holding the adjusting nut with another wrench. Thanks for the tip. I guess my old sub only has one. -=fred=- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrogers Posted December 10, 2005 Author Share Posted December 10, 2005 Well I tried to get my wagon back on the road today. But to no avail. I tightened the nut on the end of the clutch cable as far as it would go. The clutch pedal is really stiff now. When I press down on the clutch I can see the fork move back about 1 - 2 inches and the fork shakes and there is a whining nose, really high pitched not very loud, as longs as I push the pedal down. I still can't get in in any gear. Any ideas? Does this mean my clutch is bad or my throw out bearing? Or could it be that I still have problems with my clutch cable? Thanks for the help! -=fred=- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarian Posted December 10, 2005 Share Posted December 10, 2005 It sounds like the throwout bearing is bad, but even with a bad throwout, you should be able to get in gear, unless the clutch is gone or the throwout has worn through the spring fingers on the pressure plate. I'm afraid at this point you're going to have to tear into your clutch and see what's happening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayneb Posted December 10, 2005 Share Posted December 10, 2005 Hi All; I have 98 Legqacy/outback wagon with check engine light. Went to autozone thier diagnostic tool says it's oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 2. Does anyone know which position this is? I think the car has 4 sensors. Thanks in advance; Wayneb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrogers Posted December 10, 2005 Author Share Posted December 10, 2005 It sounds like the throwout bearing is bad, but even with a bad throwout, you should be able to get in gear, unless the clutch is gone or the throwout has worn through the spring fingers on the pressure plate. I'm afraid at this point you're going to have to tear into your clutch and see what's happening. D@mn it. I was hopping to avoid that. Thanks for the help! -=fred=- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrogers Posted December 10, 2005 Author Share Posted December 10, 2005 Hi All; I have 98 Legqacy/outback wagon with check engine light. Went to autozone thier diagnostic tool says it's oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 2. Does anyone know which position this is? I think the car has 4 sensors. Thanks in advance; Wayneb I am sorry I do not know. But I think you may have posted this in the wrong forum. No worries though. You can just cut a paste your question and start a new thread on the New Generation of Subarus board. Hope you find what you looking for. -=fred=- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted December 10, 2005 Share Posted December 10, 2005 I looked a little harder and I saw that the Teflon lining of the clutch cable is coming out. It looks like it might have been stopping my clutch from fulling engaging. I trimmed off the white mess and hope to finish adjusting the clutch cable on saturday. Hope that all it was. -=fred=- Replace the clutch cable first and see what happens before you dig into the clutch. Sonds like the cable is worn as hell. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave valiant Posted December 11, 2005 Share Posted December 11, 2005 I had the same problem with my 87 GL SW. I replaced the clutch pressure plate and throwout bearing, and all was once again well. If you do the clutch yourself I suggest pulling the motor. It was a real pain in the rear doing it by dropping the tranny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrogers Posted December 11, 2005 Author Share Posted December 11, 2005 Thanks for the advice. This project intimidates me but, I if I can do this I can do anything. -=fred=- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarian Posted December 11, 2005 Share Posted December 11, 2005 If you're planning on resealing the engine or doing other work, it's definitely easiest to remove the engine to get at the clutch. I would also replace the clutch disk and surface the flywheel while you're there. If you don't want to mess with your injection and wiring and vacuum lines and such, it still might be easier to drop the transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrogers Posted December 12, 2005 Author Share Posted December 12, 2005 I do not plan on doing any other work to the engine. I need to just handle one problem at a time. I have a carbed 87' wagon with no ac, but it dose have power steering. I "think?" it will be easiest to pull the motor. If any one has experiences they would like to share it would be greatly appreciated. -=fred=- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zyewdall Posted December 12, 2005 Share Posted December 12, 2005 If you're planning on resealing the engine or doing other work, it's definitely easiest to remove the engine to get at the clutch. I would also replace the clutch disk and surface the flywheel while you're there. If you don't want to mess with your injection and wiring and vacuum lines and such, it still might be easier to drop the transmission. You can also pull the intake manifold off, and lay it on the spare tire shelf, so you can pull the engine without removing any of the vaccuum/fuel/etc lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dentedfender Posted December 12, 2005 Share Posted December 12, 2005 i just did the clutch in my 84 and would say if you have some help and a good floor jack its not that hard to drop the tranny to do the clutch. The hardest part is just getting it back in. But i did manage to do it with the worst floor jack, a couple blocks of wood, some rope and 1 other persons help. It just seems like a waste to take out the motor to do the clutch. My two cents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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