Exasperated: Cooling Issues

[the_bard]

Got the '97 OBW back from the garage a couple days ago, after they swapped out the 2.5L for the 2.2L. Been fighting with the missing air bleeder cap from the radiator, but I managed to get a "piggybacked" oil drain plug in there. It's a drain plug which screws into a larger plug... the largest plug matching the size of the bleeder cap. It leaked, but a little J.B. Weld on the large plug and some Teflon pipe thread on the small plug, and it doesn't leak any more.

 

The original problem manifested again today, however... even after two engine swaps. If I drive for an hour or so, stop at a light for more than fifteen seconds or so, the temp. gauge begins to rise. Get back on the gas, and it usually drops temp. back to normal.

 

Seein' as the only component of the cooling system that isn't integrated into the engine is the radiator, I'm bettin' it's a partially clogged radiator.

 

Best price I've found around town & online is about $170. I've always been told it's not worth the trouble to hunt down a used radiator, since I'll have no idea what kinda of condition it's in internally (the current one looks to be in pristine condition, externally...). Sound right, or should I consider a used one?

[1Subaru1]

I'm not a mechanic, but it sounds like it could be a lazy water pump...

[nipper]

The original problem manifested again today, however... even after two engine swaps. If I drive for an hour or so, stop at a light for more than fifteen seconds or so, the temp. gauge begins to rise. Get back on the gas, and it usually drops temp. back to normal.

 

Seein' as the only component of the cooling system that isn't integrated into the engine is the radiator, I'm bettin' it's a partially clogged radiator.

 

 

Youve gone through all this work, why use a used radiator. www.raditaor.com is where i get mine from. Good people to work with, good prices.

i suspect that you may still have an air pocket in the cooling system. Others can chime in on this, as im not an expert on removing them.

When they installed the engine, did they change the tiiming belts and waterpump?

 

nipper

[the_bard]

I'll give radiator.com a call tomorrow morning... got a quote of $87 & $174, if I remember right. They threw up a notice recommending I call to verify the fit.

 

Dealer claims he swapped out the timing belt and water pump. I'm not noticing any coolant leaking onto the ground. Haven't looked for any seepage directly on the pump. It's not making any unusual sounds, either.

 

Just out of curiousity: If the car has been running for a half hour or so, at normal operating temperature, and the upper radiator hose is hot to the touch... shouldn't the radiator at least be warm to the touch?

[97OBW]

why swtich to a smaller engine?

[the_bard]

I love this question ;o).

1. Doesn't have the reputation for the headgasket problems like the Phase 1 EJ25 does.
   
2. More "reliable." '95 EJ22 has a non-interference design, so if the timing belt dies (or the tensioner, etc.), the engine shouldn't thrash itself.
   
3. There is a loss in power going down to the 2.2L (duh), but the way I drive, I'll never notice it.
   
4. Sure looks easier to get to the spark plugs .
   

[NoahDL88]

Before you get the new radiator, make sure it is infact plugged, once its kinda warm run your hand up and down the back, if the fans don't prevent it. if there are cold spots its certainly plugged.

 

There is also a small chance, if the mechanic didn't pull the radiator, that between the radiator and the condenser, leaves, dirt or other debris has collected and lessened airflow.

 

Good luck, Serenity 'll hold together, she always does.

[Tiny Clark]

If you've driven around for a bit, yes, radiator should be hot. Was the thermostat changed with a new one from Subie?

 

Sounds like the water isn't circulating to me.

 

You can take off the bottom hose of the radiator, plug the hole or cover with you hand until the radiator is filled, then pull the plug. The water should pretty much gush out.

 

You can also remove the thermostat and see how she does. It probably won't run to nomal temp though.

[cookie]

Does the electric fan come on?

[the_bard]

Boths fans are operational... one comes on as the temp rises, the other seems to come on only when the A/C is on. I fired it up this morning, and took the air bleeder plug out. As the engine ran for few minutes, it started pushing coolant out that hole... I assume that the coolant is moving, then. No bubbles, either. The way I was parked, that corner was higher than the rest, but not significantly.

 

I've got room enough to feel a few inches down inbetween the radiator and the A/C condensor. Took it out for a 30 minute drive today, with no problems... drove over to CVS (five minutes away), and left it running while my wife picked up her medicine. Temp gauge was at normal op. temp, the upper radiator hose was warm (grew hotter as I waited) and was very firm with pressure. Radiator was cold, both fans were not operating. Lower radiator hose was cold.

 

Drove over to the library (ten minutes away, roughly), and drove back. Got stuck behind a school bus on the way into the apartment, so I ended up doing a bit of stop and go driving. Temp gauge never budged. I checked the radiator when I pulled in... the right fan was on, left was not (looking at the engine from the front of the car). Left side of the radiator was slightly warm, the right was cold (same side as the running fan). During all of this, the temp gauge never rose above normal. No bubbles in the coolant reservoir, either.

 

I swear Serenity's trying to drive me insane ;o)

[nipper]

could be the air bubble worked itself out, that happens.

 

 

nipper

[cookie]

here's hoping its gone forever.

[the_bard]

Can't say I'm gonna get my hopes up... granted, the old 2.5L was spittin' bubbles into the coolant reservoir, but this is how its symptoms started, too.