Loyale engine pull ??'s

[Hodaka Rider]

OK, got it most of the way ready to come out, but had to stop when it came to actually separating the engine from tranny. Any tricks to this? We tried a couple times, but it didn't seem to want to separate. If we have the bolts out/nuts undone, we should just be able to jack up the tranny to get the motor mounts to clear, then pull forward, right?

 

Rad's out, all wiring/hoses/cables undone, motor mounts are undone from underneath car, exhaust undone.

Chilton's maunal sux for this procedure!

[singletrack]

You might hafta pry the bellhousing apart to get it started. Just be gentle and work it side to side.

[NoahDL88]

if its an auto, you have to seperate the flex plate from the torque converter, if not, jack the transmission up about 3 inches, as far forward as you can get the jack, and then the engine mounts will clear the cross member.

 

There are 4 bolts that hold the engine to the transmission, if you got them all, i'd reccomend some persuasion a'la rubber mallet before you bring out the big guns.

[WoodsWagon]

Ah yes.... I had lots of problems with this on both my engine pulls. It seems that corrosion builds up around the locating pins and locks the bellhousing together. Lots of encouragement from a chunk of wood and a BFH help break things loose. Use lots of penetrating oil around the studs at the bottom and the locating pins in the middle. I had to use brass shimstock to make a wedge between the two halfs once I broke them free. I would alternate lifting the engine and pounding the tranny to make the gap widen, then add more shimstock. Once they popped free, I made sure everything was wirewheeld and anti-siezed before I reassembled.

[Hodaka Rider]

Thanks everyone. It was just sticking on the locating pins, as '91 said. It's out now, and ready for inspection. It's not seized, so possibly just T-belts. The teeth are shredding off both belts! the previous owner did a HG, but didn't do the belts while it was apart. DUH!