Andyjo Posted December 24, 2005 Share Posted December 24, 2005 I'm not abusive to this thing, and don't baby it either - I pretty much drive it like it was intended to be driven, but at this point I'm comfortable saying that this '02 OBS is a piece of crap. It's been a big dissapointment and IS the reason why I own a second car. Congrads blitz, you got post #100 on this crazy topic. just curious, what makes the 02' worse than the 00' ? On a note related to the topic, i believe i have found the currect bundle of wires, coming out of the tranny, but i have to find my voltmeter to test the prongs w/ stuff... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blitz Posted December 25, 2005 Share Posted December 25, 2005 Congrads blitz, you got post #100 on this crazy topic.LOL, the thread that won't die. just curious, what makes the 02' worse than the 00' ?'02 55k miles So far: ---------------- Steering rattle noise when entering driveways. Suspension clunk after making left turn. Numerous dash rattles. Seat rattle. (fixed) Door rattle. (fixed) Rattling heat shields. (rigged) Spark knock. (rigged) Piston slap. Oil leaking from cam cover. Oil leaking front transaxle halfshafts. Oil leaking from A/C compressor. Bubbles and black flakes in coolant overflow tank. Harsh rear clutch engagement. I bought the '00 used with the crap pretty much beat out of it and it seems to be holding up better than the '02. I don't know if '02 was just a bad year or I just got a lemon. This is the only new or newish car that's done ever this to me. On a note related to the topic, i believe i have found the currect bundle of wires, coming out of the tranny, but i have to find my voltmeter to test the prongs w/ stuff...Cool, soon I'll be able to "rig" the harsh rear engagement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyclimbs Posted December 26, 2005 Share Posted December 26, 2005 I just read on the Rallitek forums that they are making a switch for the automatics!!! WAHOO!!! WITH A 50/50 SPLIT! I'm gettin one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted December 26, 2005 Share Posted December 26, 2005 And how much are they charging? $10 and a little time could do the job just as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 26, 2005 Share Posted December 26, 2005 radio shack sells the switch i used. like he said...a few minutes and i was done. works perfect "50/50" split. i'm confused why people aren't just doing this instead of poking around the internet, looking for more options and gizmos. a switch and cutting one wire is easy. this thread is crazy long for one switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjo Posted December 27, 2005 Share Posted December 27, 2005 finding the wire is the hard part... i haven't gotten around to playing with it anymore, i got a little excited about building my snorkle If i finnish that up tomorrow, i'll try to do it up hard core. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike W Posted December 27, 2005 Share Posted December 27, 2005 Finding the Sol C wire... According to urban_sub in this thread: "The connector is just under the hood over the torque converter housing. There are two found in this area -its the one closest to the driver side. It is a 16 contact connector in a 4X4 configuration. To test solenoid C (AWD) electrically, place an ohmmeter between pins 4 and 11 on the connector half going to the transmission. Looking at the contact side of the connector and the locking tab facing up, the pin numbering will start 1 on the upper right corner going left and down. So 4 will be on the upper left corner and 11 will be the third row, second from the left. This should show 9-17 ohms if solenoid windings haven't burned or wire connection hasn't been severed." Edit: I just tested mine. Yes Solinoid C is indeed pins 4 & 11. This is on a '97 Legacy trans in a '93 car. I got 12 ohms at the pins on the trans harness and also got 12 ohms when I tested Solinoid C in a spare rear extension housing I have sitting here. So has anyone made progress building a fancy adjustable diff lock switch like those guys made for their Foresters? At the moment I'd be happy to just get my car out of full AWD. For some reason the TCU wants to engage the rear drive all the time. Has me stumped...time to get the codes read and see if Smart Service can figure out what it's deal is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjo Posted December 28, 2005 Share Posted December 28, 2005 I DID IT! IT WORKS! WOOHOO!! i got pictures & everything, i'll get those up in a bit, i just spliced into the wire, threw it on a switch, did some circles in a parking lot w/ AWD, it was fine, did it w/ 4WD and man was it pissed off, hopping all over the place. I did an ice test too, the rear wheels spin out much quicker w/ 4wd on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 28, 2005 Share Posted December 28, 2005 excellent, nice job hotdog. 'bout time someone else just went in there and did it. it is aweomse isn't it? i said in my first post to this thread that it's one of the best modifications you can do to an AWD Auto subaru. it rocks indeed. and it's super easy. i thought people would jump all over this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjo Posted December 29, 2005 Share Posted December 29, 2005 So here goes, the first task was to find the damn wire. I did it on my Impreza (obs), the two connections spoken of are located below the airbox, and a pain to get to. There are two connectors down there, the one we're looking for was the one in the front/drivers side (it's sort of at an angle), i used a screw driver to pop the connector off the frame and have better access to it. Then i figured out the orientation and tested pin 4 and 11, and bingo! 13ohms! pin 4 is GROUND, 11 is the solenoid. I figured out which wire was which i ran up to radio shack, and grabbed a switch, came back and dropped the wire bundle down under the car (car on ramps), there's alot more room to work down there than there is in the engine compartment. My soleniod wire (pin 11) was brown, i chopped it, and spliced 2 wires to those segments and ran that up into the car where i wired the switch up. I got a the wrong switch, but it still worked, i got a STDP (single throw, double pole), center off (oops). I wired that sucker up and gave it a go. If you start the car in 4wd mode the 'AT OIL TEMP' light will flash at you alot, so don't do that. And here are the pics! Passenger side looking at wires Drivers side, the wires The Pins Ohmage of pins 4 and 11 Splice into those wires Cover up those exposed wires mount that switch right up somewhere... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Storydude1 Posted December 29, 2005 Share Posted December 29, 2005 So, no service lights UNLESS you start it with the switch on. Just looking for clarification on that, because of the Inspection Nazi's here in NY. If they find ANY code, boom, you FAIL. Here in Buffalo(Land of the neverending winter) a Mod like that could be VERY helpful. Again, just looking for clarification. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjo Posted December 29, 2005 Share Posted December 29, 2005 So, no service lights UNLESS you start it with the switch on. Just looking for clarification on that, because of the Inspection Nazi's here in NY. If they find ANY code, boom, you FAIL. Here in Buffalo(Land of the neverending winter) a Mod like that could be VERY helpful. Again, just looking for clarification. I dont see any other lights on, no CEL came on, just the flashing AT OIL TEMP when 4wd was on, and if you start the car in AWD, and then switch to 4WD, no lights. I don't have a code scanner to test for 'hidden codes' (my fuel temp sensor is there, but no light). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Storydude1 Posted December 29, 2005 Share Posted December 29, 2005 I dont see any other lights on, no CEL came on, just the flashing AT OIL TEMP when 4wd was on, and if you start the car in AWD, and then switch to 4WD, no lights. I don't have a code scanner to test for 'hidden codes' (my fuel temp sensor is there, but no light). Thank ya thank ya. Now, to convince the old lady that she NEEDS this.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjo Posted December 29, 2005 Share Posted December 29, 2005 it's a saftey feature! I want to head over to the junkyard and grab a push button 4x4 button, to make it really HOTT! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 29, 2005 Share Posted December 29, 2005 grab a push button 4x4 button, to make it really HOTT! great idea hotdog, i never though of that. are the buttons on the shift lever? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjo Posted December 29, 2005 Share Posted December 29, 2005 great idea hotdog, i never though of that. are the buttons on the shift lever? my dad's blazer has buttons! It's got 2HI, 4HI, 4LO i'd rig 4HI to be AWD oh yeah, why is my name hotdog!?!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted December 29, 2005 Share Posted December 29, 2005 I think this would be a good mod for re-wiring that parking light switch on top of the steering column. Much more useful and no need for a new hole in the dash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjo Posted December 29, 2005 Share Posted December 29, 2005 I think this would be a good mod for re-wiring that parking light switch on top of the steering column. Much more useful and no need for a new hole in the dash. ohhh... that's a good idea, you're a smart one! i think i'll see if i can rig that, the thing is i don't know if that switch is a single throw double pole... i guess i could rig a relay in there to make it work I'll get back to you on that one if i get it working. Edit: oh yeah, i forgot, there is not enough current coming from the TCU to do anything with... no lighting a bulb or anything, it's a VERY low current 12v signal that controls the solenoid, so i don't think a resistor would be needed... eh Edit #2: Wait a minute, if there's not much current going through, i don't need to have the resistors on there (there isn't anything currently, so i don't need the double pole switch, meaning i COULD rig it to the parking light switch WHOAH! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blitz Posted December 29, 2005 Share Posted December 29, 2005 Andy, thanks for the photos. Hey, substitute the SPDT /center off, with a DPDT /center off, and use the unused throw to "put the FWD fuse in". oh yeah, why is my name hotdog!?!? psst... when you're square over your target, you pick up flak. Jabs and insults are the second most sincere form of flattery. Consider them a reliable measure of success. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 29, 2005 Share Posted December 29, 2005 oh yeah, why is my name hotdog!?!? i call everyone that, even my wife and mom...."dude" gets old. psst... when you're square over your target, you pick up flak. Jabs and insults are the second most sincere form of flattery. Consider them a reliable measure of success. jabs and insults? no way, i'm stoked he got it! look forward to hearing some post-snow commentary HOTDOG!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
operose Posted December 30, 2005 Share Posted December 30, 2005 i call everyone that, even my wife and mom...."dude" gets old. jabs and insults? no way, i'm stoked he got it! look forward to hearing some post-snow commentary HOTDOG!!! hell yes!!! how come I never did this to the legacy I wonder? knew gary had done it before, just wasn't thinking... this weekend there will be one more 4wd "new gen" running around... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatz Posted December 30, 2005 Author Share Posted December 30, 2005 Andyjo: Thankyou very much for that step through, i did the same, i checked pin 11, and i got 14 ohms, so i still spliced and splined and all that, turns out that my TT gearbox doesnt have centre diff lock, it was "hold" so i was driving around takin off in 2nd gear, also the revs where alot higher too. So im a bit bummed out at the moment that it didnt work, but at least i gave it a go.... Thanx all for your help. Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blitz Posted December 30, 2005 Share Posted December 30, 2005 jabs and insults? no way, i'm stoked he got it!Alright hotdog. :-p I seek to elicit "jabs and insults" on a regular basis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted December 30, 2005 Share Posted December 30, 2005 http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/4EAT.pdf from another thread, very interesting The awd does vary between 10-50% (though it doesn say that outright) nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 31, 2005 Share Posted December 31, 2005 tell us what model/year/trans/motor you have. in the end we might be able to start a thread with model/year/trans specific pin-outs for the duty solenoid C. we have two transmissions nailed down, shouldn't be too many 4EAT differences across year. Andyjo: Thankyou very much for that step through, i did the same, i checked pin 11, and i got 14 ohms, so i still spliced and splined and all that, turns out that my TT gearbox doesnt have centre diff lock, it was "hold" so i was driving around takin off in 2nd gear, also the revs where alot higher too.So im a bit bummed out at the moment that it didnt work, but at least i gave it a go.... Thanx all for your help. Adam tell us what model/year/trans/motor you have. in the end we might be able to start a thread with model/year/trans specific pin-outs for the duty solenoid C. we have two transmissions nailed down, shouldn't be too many 4EAT differences across year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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