ECS light - trouble codes

[jeffroid]

I did plenty of searching and am still confused (again). I have an ’84 FWD sedan that I use for my commute from Renton to Everett. Runs fine but like clockwork, the ECS dash light comes on exactly 10 minutes after I hit 405. It goes back off after I shut down and restart later on in the day, and it will sometimes go off if I get off the highway and drive around in traffic for a while. The only other symptom I can think of is that the highway MPG is 23-27. That’s the best I could ever get out of my 4WD wagons, but some here claim much higher numbers from FWD EA81s.

 

 

 

Here is why I am confused. I pulled the cover under the dash and looked around. The only connectors that looked like they could be hooked together for any kind of testing were a pair of green ones. I could not see any white or black ones. When I turn the ignition on, the ECU appears to be flashing 11. One flash, followed by a short pause, followed by a shorter flash, followed by a longer pause. When I hook the green connectors together, it does the same thing, even after turning the ignition off and on again.

 

 

 

I get the same thing over and over again, no matter what I do with those green connectors and the ignition. Some other things that come to mind based on what I have read is that the ECS light is not on while I am doing this test. Like I said, the ECS light will only come on after 10 minutes of highway driving, and often goes off soon after I get off the highway. The only other thing I can think of is that I don’t seem to be able to hear the fuel pump doing anything by hooking up the green connectors.

 

 

 

Any ideas ? ? ? How come I can only seem to find a pair of green connectors and no white or black ones ? ? ? There are other unused connectors, but none that will hook together or with the green ones, except for this one bright blue one that will hook to one of the green ones. Hooking that blue one to the green one changes nothing.

 

 

 

Anyway, thanks for reading this. Ideas are greatly appreciated.

[naru]

Any ideas ? ? ? How come I can only seem to find a pair of green connectors and no white or black ones ? ? ?

 

Because there are no white or black ones-don`t believe everything you read.

 

You need to read codes while the ECS light is on.It doesn`t matter if the green test connectors are connected or not.

Code 11 is normal.

Good luck.

[subiemech85]

BTDT

california emissions

removed canister

light rarely came on

when light did come on, unplugged computer WHILE DRIVING !!!!!

[jeffroid]

BTDT

california emissions

removed canister

light rarely came on

when light did come on, unplugged computer WHILE DRIVING !!!!!

 

I'm sorry, what's BTDT ? ? ?

 

What canister are you referring to ? ? ?

 

Thanks very much for the replies - I will try to see if I can check when the ECS light is on.

[NorthWet]

Is this a carb'd engine or one of the the turbo/MPFI's ones?

 

The ECU on the EA81's is simpler (generally) than the EA82s. The code 11, if I recall correctly, relates to the engine not running (something like no starter circuit or no ignition pulses). The fact that the ECS light comes on 10 minutes in could be because the ECU has a delay on some of its functions until the car warms up; if this is so, maybe you have a "lazy" EGO (O2) sensor.

[subiemech85]

Been There Done That

canister on side opposite battery, round, black, has 3-4lines going to it

you need to plug the small line, and leave the others open, IIRC

 

IIRC = If I Recall Correctly

[jeffroid]

Thanks for the help everyone. I knew what IIRC meant, but BTDT was a new one for me.

 

It's a totally stock carbed Carter-Weber car, Pat. I think there is something up with the exactly 10-mintute thing, but I don't think it has anything to do with warm up. I could let it warm up in the yard or drive it around town all day long and the ECS light would never come on, but ten minutes after I hit the highway the ECS light comes on to stay. From all I've read the code 11 thing is ingition pulse or whatever, but the car starts, warms up, and drives perfectly. If it wasn't for that stupid ECS light and the mediocre MPG, I would be in utopia.

 

Also, I did replace the O2 sensor, because another Subaru I bought to fix up for someone else came with a box of parts that included a new one. Did'nt make any difference.

 

I will look for that canister tomorrow, and hopefully be able to hit the highway and get the ECS light to come on and check the brain box then.

 

Any more ideas or acronyms ? ? ?

[subiemech85]

the way to diagnose subarus is KISS

start removing, disconnecting, blocking off, reverse engineering, etc. until it runs like you want it to

 

I am guessing the c/w is the problem, either put on a weber -- holley, or a ea82 hitachi with matching intake manifold -- my personal favorite, and do away with the ecm