Well.. I feel Slow...

[xoomer]

Yesterday I was on my way to milton... and this Mid 90's civic decided that it wan't to try to race me.. (on the freeway... ) Damned hood scoop and Turbo logo...

 

Anyhow... I thought it was funny... I was able to keep up with this "Riced" Honda.. Wasn't able to pass but Keep up with... but the funny thing was that every time he changed gears he blew Black/Blue Smoke out the back... (and I'm thinking hehehe) they think there so hot..

 

Anyhow.. What do I have to do to beat someone like that.

 

Intercooler and Bov? would that help? bigger turbo? What?

[75subie]

sell the XT and get a WRX:lol:

 

damn ricers:-\ it shouldn`t take to much more to beat a riced civic, i am sure there are many ea82t fanatics on here who will help you out. take care,

 

Jon

[Frank B]

That blue smoke is usually because of those crappy APC cone airfilters they use. They are made of nylon instead of paper or cotton. So it is more of a small screen that allows tons of dust and dirt inty the engine.

 

Those hondas are SUPER light too. Get a stripped down DL and build up the motor if you want to beat them with a Subie.

[A DOG]

Get an XT6. I handle anyone who comes at me. I haven't lost a street race yet. I raced a 98 pontiac grand am GT and beat him silly. I also raced a 2004 dodge something and beat him.

[Skip]

I hate to give your boyz a wake up call

 

but

 

IF that Honda had a turbo'd V TEC properly tuned (rich black smoke says AF ratio may want adjusted)

 

You will need a WRX or STi to beat him.

 

I drive a somewhat modified EA82T

http://www.westol.com/neper/willyslump.jpg

 

and have been smoked bad buy one of these.

[Turbone]

Just what Skip said. The only thing a stock EA82T is going to beat is a EA82. To get it going faster you need to do alot of mods. And here is where the search function is your friend.

 

And Dog, you havent raced a real car yet.

I got spanked in my 6 by a new model Benz. With 4 people in it

[A DOG]

And Dog, you havent raced a real car yet.

 

I raced my friends 2004 chevy SS with a lot of mods. I had four people in my car. We only raced to 30mph since we didn't want to speed. I did stay with him for almost all of first gear, but he pulled away towards the end of first. Second gear he woulda spanked me.

[Myxalplyx]

Simple solution!

 

Do what the guys have done here that are running in the high 14's. At this point you either a: Install a stronger clutch or b: get a tranny cooler and get your automatic to shift quicker.

 

All that is left is a stronger fuel pump and a 50-60hp shot from a wet nitrous kit. That is it! If I could run a low 13 second 1/4 mile in my Outback Sport with this combo and the Outback was running high 15s without the nitrous, I'm sure a lighter EA82T that is running high 14's could be running in the 12's with a 50-60hp shot of nitrous. Have fun!

[Caboobaroo]

I think the only mod I have yet to do on the RX is nitrous. Granted I still need to get my MS&EDIS setup but after that, the nitrous would be the last mod if I decide to do it. Then it'll be to the AWD dyno at Super Rupair and then the dragstrip in Denver. Gotta see what she'll do!

[TheSubaruJunkie]

An intercooler would be your best bet at 1st. A bigger turbo can be had, but your ECU wont like anything above 11psi, so swapping for a bigger turbo still wont let you run more than 11psi.

 

You could always go hard core and do a swap with a high compression block. But i'd say the best mod you can do to your XT is to replace that Auto with a 5spd But no matter what you do... im affraid you still wont beat that honda rice-boy, not with no 1800cc subaru motor.

 

 

-Brian

[75subie]

http://videos.streetfire.net/Player.aspx?fileid=E58B9D78-FE90-48DF-A0C9-5A536ADEF3AA&term=civic%20burnout&p=0

 

http://videos.streetfire.net/Player.aspx?fileid=29833632-1A22-4B63-B1D2-822DE30A6BF0&term=civic%20burnout&p=0

 

:clap:japanese rice:dead:

[4WDFrenzy]

Anyhow.. What do I have to do to beat someone like that.

 

Intercooler and Bov? would that help? bigger turbo? What?

 

MMMmmkay. Here we go:

 

1)3" Fenderwell intake

2)Intercooler

3)100% recirculating BPV(not BOV)

4)Adjustable FPR w/gauge(adjust Fuel pressure to 42psi)

5)New Fuel Pump(because the FPR will probably kill the factory one if you are still running the original)

6)New Fuel Filter(if you haven't already changed it)

7)Larger diameter DP(w/ divorced wategate or bellmouth), w/ highflow cat(install cat further downstream from the turbo)

8)Larger diameter exhaust(2-1/4", 2-1/2"; 3" will probably be too big) w/ better flowing muffler

9)Boost Gauge(PSI or BAR; if BAR, learn how to read boost pressure in BAR if you don't know how already)

10)Boost controller(manual, electronic, you choose)(adjust boost to either 10 or 11psi[under fuel cut]; unless your car doesn't fuel cut[if it doesn't, you're lucky!])

11)*Optional* Custom exhaust manifold that directs flow toward the turbocharger

12)*Optional*Fuel Cut Defencer(HKS, APEXi, custom, etc.)

13)*Optional*Delta cams(street grind)

14)*Optional*MegaSquirt standalone or piggyback unit(E-Manage, regular or Ultimate; just have to get it tuned)

15)New plugs, wires, disty cap & rotor

16)Uprated Clutch(more clamping force)

 

Oh, and you might want to install new brakes too. Trust me!!!

 

With all that, you will have one killer ol' school Sube!!!! This will net you some serious power at the wheels. It will also help if you are going for the whole "sleeper" theme, like myself. If you don't like the way the stock turbo runs, then upgrade to a TD04 from a WRX or a turbo from a Legacy w/2.2L. If you do this mod, make sure that you get the associated parts(up-pipe, downpipe, etc).This will give you better top end power. Hope this helps.

 

Patrick

[rallyruss]

my wagon is almost as quick as my wifes WRX. I let her drive it the other day and first thing she does is peel out down the street. now she wants me to pump up her car. I dont think so. its still under waranty and is problem free.

 

the GL10 wagon can run 15psi, WRX TD04 turbo and IC, slightly modified up pipe. WRX down pipe and 2.5" exhaust stock air box(k/n drop in) with enlarged hole to the inner fender for fresh air.

 

the TD04 is problaby the key component for me. have had it in TD04 form for over a year now. only cranked up the boost just recently as my motor waranty done.

 

keep in mind I have added heat shields to keep the heat away from my IC and fresh air coming in. Two row radiator. auxilary oil cooler.

If you want more power and you want it to last then you need to keep things cool.

[Caboobaroo]

the search feature will be your best friend when it comes to this. There's a few people on the board with mildy to wildy modified EA82T's, myself being one of the more "wild". My current setup which will be running when I get back to Laramie consists of:

WRX TD04

WRX TMIC

custom AEM Cold air intake

Samco intercooler hoses

TurboXS BOV

Spyder intake from a NA car which I modified for the turbo

modified EA82T uppipe

Megan Racing downpipe

Delta 260 Street cams

stage 2 clutch

PLUS I got a few items which will be going into the new motor build starting in the summer which are:

lightened flywheel

custom crank pulley with EDIS ring

megasquirt and EDIS setup

NA MPFI rebuilt shortblock

headstuds

ported and polished gen 3 turbo heads

TWE header or custom header

 

Granted, there's still quite a list that I want to do to this car BUT the amount of work it has taken me to do some of the custom work to fit parts in from other cars has been quite a journey so far. But word of caution... with any sort or turbo buildup, make SURE you know how everything works before you start messing with it. My advice, get a wideband A/F gauge like the LM-1 and hook it into your stock car and learn how the car is all working before any mods. Then see where your your car gets the best performance stock wise, then start upgrading the turbo or adding in an intercooler, cranking up the fuel or boost, just make sure you know where you want it all to be when you're done. Oh and with the LM-1, you can hook it right into your laptop or PC and see what the A/F ratio is at a certain RPM which makes it easier for tuning.

[3eyedwagon]

Step 1. Park XT.

 

Step 2. Buy just about anything with a Chevy 327 or 350 v8 in it.

IE: Shortbed pickup, mid 70s dirtbag Camaro, postal van, Caprice ex cop car

 

Step 3. GO to local NAPA, get speed parts.

 

Step 4. Install said speed parts.

 

Step 5. Lighten Vehicle using sawzall or other destructive device. Remove EVERYTHING you dont need. Remember, you only need headlights if you plan to drive after dark!

 

Step 6. Go fast for cheap.

 

I like my early Subarus, but if you really want to go fast, youre gonna have to abandon ship or buy a newer Sub. Like a STI!

 

Now I know everyones gonna get all whiney, but I mean FAST, not fast for a older Subaru. I'm a Subaru fan, but I'm also a realist, and EA82s just werent made to make a bunch of torque. "There's no replacement for displacement." Cheezy, but true.

[Tcat55371]

I have a cheaper answer and almost a perfect fit.

 

RACE ON SNOW COVERED ROADS ONLY!

[4WDFrenzy]

Now I know everyones gonna get all whiney, but I mean FAST, not fast for a older Subaru. I'm a Subaru fan, but I'm also a realist, and EA82s just werent made to make a bunch of torque. "There's no replacement for displacement." Cheezy, but true.

 

Well, and as the bell chimes, in comes a whiner, Sorry. Everyone has a different point of view on cars and the term fast. Fast to you may not be fast to me. Maybe he is a diehard Subaru fan like me(I have Subaru Rally Blue running through my veins), and it doesn't matter how old it is. He wants to beat a HONDA, not a 1,000+HP trailer and/or dyno queen. He wants it to be decently quick, so we advised him as to what steps to take. He, in theory, could have his block completely revamped and install larger diameter pistons, depending on how much he wants to spend on custom work. Or simply swap in a different motor and turbo setup. I think that Carroll Shelby said it best when he said,"Horsepower costs money. How fast do you want to go?" Older Subarus can be made fast. It just all depends on how much time, effort, and money you want to invest.

 

And here is where reality comes back to bite you. I have heard the "no replacement for displacement" argument over and over again. I have seen more low displacment turbo & supercharged cars blow the doors off of big displacment engine, old school V8s until it isn't funny anymore. Sure when you turn up the boost, you will sacrifice reliability. But that is just it. 80% of the time, all you have to do to make more power is turn the boost up a bit and increase fuel to keep up. NA cars you would either have to convert them to forced induction or change the internals, which gets costly. In short, whenever you start hopping up any engine, forced induction or naturally aspirated, that is a risk that you take into account. The more power that you make, the less reliable the engine becomes.

 

It all comes down to the owners preferences. And some people just absolutely love their Subarus and will do whatever they have to, to make them more enjoyable. I'm truly sorry if this sounds rude or strikes a sour note with you. I don't mean you any harm by it.

 

Patrick

[BoostedBalls]

It all depends on which ricer you are trying to kill. If you are looking to kill the "aluminum wing bolted to the trunk and unpainted fiberglass body kit with cut coil springs and big tach on the dash ricer", all you really need is an intercooler and boost controller set to about 12 or 13psi. Your stock engine, cams, and turbo should be enough to get you in the 13's with a good intercooler, exhaust and fuel management system. I did 14.2 with intake temp problems that my home-built intercooler couldn't control. With that fixed, it would be in the 13's for sure.

 

If you are trying to kill the "I know my sh*t and I'm running a tuned turbo engine with stripped interior with limited slip front diff ricer" then good luck to you my friend. Sell the Subie and get a crotch rocket. There's a couple guys out here that are running 'budget' V-tecs in the low 11 second range on less than 20 psi of boost. If you really want to waste these guys, build up a WRX engine with all the goodies and a shot of NOS.

 

I'm doing an all-out assault on an ea82t right now. If it doesn't get me in the low 13's or high 12's, it will be up for sale and I'll be installing a WRX engine.

[MilesFox]

 

Anyhow.. What do I have to do to beat someone like that.

 

Intercooler and Bov? would that help? bigger turbo? What?

 

PIT MANEUVER!!

 

taunt: "If you got a problem lets take it off road" (works with trucks and suv's too)

[3eyedwagon]

Well, and as the bell chimes, in comes a whiner, Sorry. Everyone has a different point of view on cars and the term fast. Fast to you may not be fast to me. Maybe he is a diehard Subaru fan like me(I have Subaru Rally Blue running through my veins), and it doesn't matter how old it is. He wants to beat a HONDA, not a 1,000+HP trailer and/or dyno queen. He wants it to be decently quick, so we advised him as to what steps to take. He, in theory, could have his block completely revamped and install larger diameter pistons, depending on how much he wants to spend on custom work. Or simply swap in a different motor and turbo setup. I think that Carroll Shelby said it best when he said,"Horsepower costs money. How fast do you want to go?" Older Subarus can be made fast. It just all depends on how much time, effort, and money you want to invest.

 

And here is where reality comes back to bite you. I have heard the "no replacement for displacement" argument over and over again. I have seen more low displacment turbo & supercharged cars blow the doors off of big displacment engine, old school V8s until it isn't funny anymore. Sure when you turn up the boost, you will sacrifice reliability. But that is just it. 80% of the time, all you have to do to make more power is turn the boost up a bit and increase fuel to keep up. NA cars you would either have to convert them to forced induction or change the internals, which gets costly. In short, whenever you start hopping up any engine, forced induction or naturally aspirated, that is a risk that you take into account. The more power that you make, the less reliable the engine becomes.

 

It all comes down to the owners preferences. And some people just absolutely love their Subarus and will do whatever they have to, to make them more enjoyable. I'm truly sorry if this sounds rude or strikes a sour note with you. I don't mean you any harm by it.

 

Patrick

 

All the gadgetry in the world isnt going to make a EA82 fast enough to hang with even a mild B16. Thats "reality coming back to bite you". Sure you can bolt on all the boost you want, but horsepower is a simple equation. More air, more fuel, more spark. IF you want to get down to brass tacks, dollar for dollar, pound for pound, the EA82 just cant hang. Not even with a mild b16 let alone ANY H series Honda motors. I don't like it any more than you do. But thats "reality coming back to bite you".

 

I do admire and appreciate your sense of adventure in trying something new tho! The last thing the road needs is another **** Honda! If moneys no object, go for it! Drop a B spec in it and give er 'ell! But just like any engine, the EA82t DEFINITELY has its limits.

[Buddy]

my wagon is almost as quick as my wifes WRX. I let her drive it the other day and first thing she does is peel out down the street. now she wants me to pump up her car. I dont think so. its still under waranty and is problem free.

 

the GL10 wagon can run 15psi, WRX TD04 turbo and IC, slightly modified up pipe. WRX down pipe and 2.5" exhaust stock air box(k/n drop in) with enlarged hole to the inner fender for fresh air.

 

the TD04 is problaby the key component for me. have had it in TD04 form for over a year now. only cranked up the boost just recently as my motor waranty done.

 

keep in mind I have added heat shields to keep the heat away from my IC and fresh air coming in. Two row radiator. auxilary oil cooler.

If you want more power and you want it to last then you need to keep things cool.

:slobber: i have to see it in action!!!

[4WDFrenzy]

All the gadgetry in the world isnt going to make a EA82 fast enough to hang with even a mild B16. Thats "reality coming back to bite you". Sure you can bolt on all the boost you want, but horsepower is a simple equation. More air, more fuel, more spark. IF you want to get down to brass tacks, dollar for dollar, pound for pound, the EA82 just cant hang. Not even with a mild b16 let alone ANY H series Honda motors. I don't like it any more than you do. But thats "reality coming back to bite you".

 

I do admire and appreciate your sense of adventure in trying something new tho! The last thing the road needs is another **** Honda! If moneys no object, go for it! Drop a B spec in it and give er 'ell! But just like any engine, the EA82t DEFINITELY has its limits.

 

WHOA! Not so fast there. What is your definition of "mild?" First off, mild to me, means adding something along the lines of cold-air intake, exhaust(including a header), and maybe, just maybe an adjustable FPR. That is where most Honda owners that are trying to build a "mild" setup start out. Secondly, B16 dual cam motors are not as common an engine as you may think. Not every Tom, wongleflute, and Harry has one installed in their Honda. Saddest thing is, when you do find one, 9 times outta 10, unless you know what to look for, you have to get a mechanic to check it out because most have lived in abusive enviroments anyway. Now then, I have been working on Hondas for quite a while now. I have worked on so many that it makes my head swim:burnout: . I am not going to lie, I do like the B16(A, A1, & A2), but most guys DO NOT have B16 engines under the hood. Most have D15s, D16s(A, Z, &Y series), F22s(for the accords unless they are V6s), H22s for the later model Preludes, and in most Integra's, you'll find the good ol' B18, unless it is a Type-R or GSR(B18C5). Any of which a nicely modded EA82T will keep up with, if not outrun. I know mine can. I don't know how many cars with bolt ons I've beaten in my GL-10 Wagon(Yes its a wagon. That is what makes winning so funny.). I don't even know how much power I'm producing either, but it must be enough. Just in case you are wondering, here is my list of mods:

Custom 3" fenderwell intake

Woven Stainless Steel filter element

SRP Manual Boost Controller (Boost adjusted up to 11psi)

N/A EA82 Distributor(timing has been advanced)

NGK Iridium plugs

Accel Super Coil(Big Square looking Yellow one)

Custom 2-1/4" Bellmouth downpipe w/ CATCO cat(about a 1ft from it's stock location)

Custom bent 2-1/4" exhaust w/N1 style canister muffler + 1 inline resonator

Adjustable FPR(fuel pressure @ 42psi)

New Fuel Pump(produces 95psi line pressure vs. stock 70psi)

Mitsubishi Starion Intercooler w/ custom piping

100% recirculating BPV

WRX oem hood scoop

RhinoPac Clutch kit

 

The only Hondas that I won't take on in my GL-10 is a turbocharged one or a Honda bike. Anything else is fair game. So don't sit there and preach to me that a mildly modded Civic would outdo a well modded EA82T. Especially not your average, everyday mildly modded Civic. If he were to just do a TD04 swap and add a little fuel, he would have been pulling away from that Honda guy with no problem(unless he started running out of road). And that is the true reality of it.

 

And the only reason why Honda guys can build "budget" racecars, is the simple fact that there is a rather gigantic following in the aftermarket world for them. There is even a huge aftermarket for old & new school V6s & V8s. But old school Subaru guys like us have to custom fabricate most of our own performance parts. We are the forgotten few. That is why it gets so expensive to build up EA82Ts. But you have to be determined and know exactly what you want out of the motor. I have done some research on these motors and asked a few question around here too. Sometimes it is just the thrill of the chase that keeps us going. That is one of the biggest reasons why we swap so much information on the forum. We are a pretty tight knit community because most of us share the same common goal. And that goal is,"Stickin' it to The Man.":lol:

 

Patrick

[hatchsub]

Step 1. Park XT.

 

Step 2. Buy just about anything with a Chevy 327 or 350 v8 in it.

IE: Shortbed pickup, mid 70s dirtbag Camaro, postal van, Caprice ex cop car

 

Step 3. GO to local NAPA, get speed parts.

 

Step 4. Install said speed parts.

 

Step 5. Lighten Vehicle using sawzall or other destructive device. Remove EVERYTHING you dont need. Remember, you only need headlights if you plan to drive after dark!

 

Step 6. Go fast for cheap.

 

I like my early Subarus, but if you really want to go fast, youre gonna have to abandon ship or buy a newer Sub. Like a STI!

 

Now I know everyones gonna get all whiney, but I mean FAST, not fast for a older Subaru. I'm a Subaru fan, but I'm also a realist, and EA82s just werent made to make a bunch of torque. "There's no replacement for displacement." Cheezy, but true.

 

Amen to that. Dont get me wrong i love my suby but its no muscle car. Thats why i have my IROC camaro. Its fairly stock right now with only a flowmaster 3 inch exhaust but more modes are coming. Truth be told..its a lot less expensive to go fast in a V-8 car then a 6 cylander or 4. Lots of fun until it rains or snows. Then into the garage it goes and out comes the suby thats good for any weather.

[Caboobaroo]

Amen to that. Dont get me wrong i love my suby but its no muscle car. Thats why i have my IROC camaro. Its fairly stock right now with only a flowmaster 3 inch exhaust but more modes are coming. Truth be told..its a lot less expensive to go fast in a V-8 car then a 6 cylander or 4. Lots of fun until it rains or snows. Then into the garage it goes and out comes the suby thats good for any weather.

 

Yup, gotta agree with you on that. Now if we lived in Japan, that would be a different story cause then we might all be on a Skyline board or something. I've got the IROC and the v6 Camaro (going to be a bigblock) because I love to go fast AND have the ability to say I probably got a million horses and whatnot. The RX is a car that keeps me entertained and it also gives me something to have that says 'Hey, yeah I modded this and put it in there and this and this and this" Most imports in the US are quick, not fast. If you want a fast import, better get one imported from overseas and start there. Gives you a good base platform for an import muscle car basically....

[WJM]

With the TWE header, TWE DP, an intake, AWIC, stock boost and stock everything else, I took down an Integra GSR on the highway. Last I checked the GSR's are B18's and VTEC.

 

I have MINIMAL mods.

 

Again...I only have a header, full turbo back, an air to water intercooler (Toyota ST165 unit), and an intake. Everything else is stock. I was even on stock boost at the time.

 

I thought the GSR's were fast? They are classed in STX...and STX is a class for 'quick' cars.

 

 

 

 

No one truely knows the limits of the EA82.

 

Last I checked the bore was 92MM.

 

Wait? Whats that? Did i hear that ALL EJ20x's have a 92MM bore as well? HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM...........................

 

The A10's are light. Wait? Hondas are light? Really? wow...stock for stock weight is similar. EXCLUDING older Si's and CRX models.

 

Last I checked you can only get about 200~250 hp and no TQ out of a B series honda engine in N/A form....thats even with spending lots of $ on EMS and other parts. Go turbo and you make more power and some TQ.

 

Last I checked I made 240hp and 320tq at the crank on a stock EA82T with the only difference being I made the stock turbo push 15 psi and I had an Air to Air intercooler (USDM STi). Thats like...'impossible'.

 

Lets see...

 

USDM STi: Average weight is 3250....stock power is 300/300. 10.8 power to weight ratio.

USDM EJ205 WRX: Average weight is 3100....stock power is 227/218. 13.9 power to weight ratio.

WJM RX: Average weight is 2550....power is 240/320. 9.1 power to weight ratio.

 

I win.