markjs Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 I've got an '84 GL Wagon FWD with a Weber/Carter style carb. According to my local auto parts store ALL Subies are Hitatchi, and all throttle cables are the same for 81-84. They claim there is no cable made for the Weber carb (the Hitatchi cable attatches to the passenger side of the carb whereas mine is on the driver side, and is a different length....I've been using a junkyard cable from a Hitatchi carb, I had to break the shielding on the cable and liberally use electrical tape to jury rig a solution, but I don't feel safe using it long term. Can anyone help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markjs Posted January 18, 2006 Author Share Posted January 18, 2006 Oh BTW my carb is 1bbl while the Hitachis I have seen are all 2bbl, if that matters..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrap487 Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 do you have any experiance with bicycles? I'd just figure out what lengths you need and then go to a bike shop and have them cut the cable and shield for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 thats a good idea scrap............ there is a 1 bbl at the yard right now.i will stop buy and see if it still has an intact cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudboat Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 A few years had the Carter/Weber carbs on them in a few models. I have an EA-81 that had one, but immediately bought another manifold and put a Hitachi on it and yes, I had to re-route my throttle cable. I didn't use a cable for a Hitachi, instead I used 1/4" stainless tubing as a cable shield and used 1/8" stainless wire rope for the cable. I pumped the tubing with grease to minimize friction and it works really slick. I since changed the Hitachi to the Weber 32/36. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 bleh, that carb has many problems if you haven't encountered them already. I had the Carter-Weber on my '83 hatchback and oh man, what a pain! They are good carbs IF you can ever get it to run right. My advice would be to swap it to a Hitachi and be done with it. Besides, you'll get more power with the Hitachi I believe and you can actually get rebuild kits for cheap for them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mortimc Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 About the bike cable, go to yer local bike shop and get the tension adjusters that go on the brake levers, those fit right in the firewall hole and the housing fits in that, and just canabalize parts from yer subie. I did it to mine and its way better than the stock setup. Just ask if ya got any questions. Clayton Bellingham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urabus-84HBDR Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 I have been looking for an answer to the same problem, my 84 gl hatch has been sitting cause the way cable had to be routed, it would be fine but if you got into it and it went past a certain point itd stick wide open. The cable was too long. this has me thinking... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85Sub4WD Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 OK - if you want a FINAL solution that WILL work - go with an OEM part - http://www.halspartsandservice.com is fairly cheap, and he is my source for ALL my OEM parts. They will ship to you, and they are a small operation, so when you call the phone you will get Sandy or Sharon, maybe Gilbert or Hal if they aren't under the hood of a car. Their prices are competitive, and it saves you the time of throwing something together that may/may not work - throttle components are NOT something to be played with, because of the dire consiquences if the throttle gets stuck open (blown engine/lose control of car and have a serious wreck) - it is a matter of safety whether it works properly or not. The risks aren't worth a $30 part!! Go with a REAL solution, OEM part or aftermarket, intended for the car, rather than throwing something together that could end up being dangerous. Frankly, I don't care who you get your part from, just make sure it is something that is safe and works properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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