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WARNING 4wd switch installers!!


LosDiosDeVerde86
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This message is really only for those who are going to install the 4WD switch, or who already have, do to the messages length and complexity.

 

 

To begin, i followed Andyjo's instructions. (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48865&page=12&pp=10).

Now, obviously he has a 2.2 impreza, i have a 2.2 legacy. everything still seemed to be the same. the brown wire was pin 11, however on out Fluke it read 14.5ohms, which we decided was close enough.

 

we spliced in the switch and hooked it up. a few things we noticed that were different:

 

with the switch in the "on" position, it's like the pin 11 wire was NEVER cut.. the circuit is connected and the switch may as well not be there. which means with the switch in the ON position the car is in AWD (not 4WD). the weird thing here is that if you start the car in the ON position the AT Trans Fluid Temp light flashes. this doesn't make any sense because the ON position puts the original wire back together.

 

this means that in order to hhave the car in 4WD the switch up be in the OFF position. think about it.. turning off the switch, cuts the selonoid wire thus locking the duty c.

 

with the 4WD turned ON (the switch was OFF) i went out into the parking lot and starting doing donuts. no bucking, no jumping, no pissed off subaru. i turned the switch to the ON position to double check and no bucking, no jumping, no pissed off subaru.

 

so now everyone's thinking that i did it wrong. well you're wrong. here's how we double checked...

 

we put my car about a foot up in the air (i did this all at work).

 

we tested the FWD fuse:

- in drive giving no gas

- front tires spin

- in drive giving it gas

- front tires spin

we tested the switch ON:

- in drive giving no gas

- front tires spin

- in drive giving it gas

-front tires spin then all 4 spin (meaning AWD)

we tested the switch OFF:

- in drive giving no gas

- all 4 spin

- in drive giving it gas

- all 4 spin

we tested the switch w/ FWD fuse

- switch on

- front tires spin

- switch off while in drive

- a thud and all 4 immediately start spining

 

 

all this proves it. the switch needs to be in the OFF position for LOCKED 4WD. this means you must drive normally with the switch in the ON position which means whenever you start up your car the AT Trans Fluid Temp light will flash, letting you know that the switch is in the CORRECT position.

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all this proves it. the switch needs to be in the OFF position for LOCKED 4WD. this means you must drive normally with the switch in the ON position which means whenever you start up your car the AT Trans Fluid Temp light will flash, letting you know that the switch is in the CORRECT position.

 

 

my switch has to be in the off position for it to be locked in 4wd, too.. but my AT trans fluid temp light doesn't flash (2.2 legacy)

 

 

I guess what I'm trying to say is what's your point?

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dude, i think your switch is backwards, i just went out and tested, with the switch off (4wd) starting the car, it blinks alot

with the switch on (AWD) the light blinks the 1st time i start AFTER running w/ the 4wd on, the next startup it's fine, no blinking.

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If you have things wired up properly it shouldn't matter one bit how you wire the switch up. It's simply a break in the circuit.

 

Measure the resistance across the switch's pins. With the switch "ON" circuit closed, the resistance should be 0 ohms. If it's not, get a different switch. If that's the case, that's more then likely why you're having the tranny light blink.

 

Other option is to use a relay with a switch.

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Well yes... It is true that having the switch open the circuit forces it into 4wd, and having it closed lets the normal AWD function. When you start the car you want the switch closed so that the self check checks out.

 

So? Whats the warning? I though we went over most of this in the post in the New Gen forum.

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ok, re-checked it out. apparently andyjo IS correct. the light flashes after the last time it's used.

 

i guess the warning WAS that the light might flash after every start...wrong.

 

the other warning i guess was that even if it DOES work, doing a donut to get it to hop may NOT work. we've proven that the switch works on my car, but yet it does NOT act like a pissed off ru.

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ok, re-checked it out. apparently andyjo IS correct. the light flashes after the last time it's used.

 

i guess the warning WAS that the light might flash after every start...wrong.

 

the other warning i guess was that even if it DOES work, doing a donut to get it to hop may NOT work. we've proven that the switch works on my car, but yet it does NOT act like a pissed off ru.

If everything is correct, then you have a worn out out transfer clutch, or something is keeping fluid pressure from building up to the full amount.

 

When I drive in circles on pavement with the 4wd engaged, I don't get bucking, I stop! I suppose I could gas it enough to get bucking, but who wants to put that much abuse on the components?

 

If you aren't getting binding while turning, then you don't have 4wd!

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yeah, i get the same thing mt. biker gets, if i crank it all the way over i just stop. If i turn it all the way, and stomp on it (yeah, not good for things, but for testing purposes..) it jumps a little.

So have we solved the mystery? if you really insist on making it not flash, after you use it, turn the car off, then on, off, then on again :brow:

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yeah, i get the same thing mt. biker gets, if i crank it all the way over i just stop. If i turn it all the way, and stomp on it (yeah, not good for things, but for testing purposes..) it jumps a little.

So have we solved the mystery? if you really insist on making it not flash, after you use it, turn the car off, then on, off, then on again :brow:

 

 

yeah, you were right about the light. only flashes after last use.

 

based on my tests i do indeed have 4wd. please go more in depth about this fluid pressure

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based on my tests i do indeed have 4wd. please go more in depth about this fluid pressure

 

Numbchux explains the pressure pretty good in this post:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=409065&postcount=13

 

Keep in mind that the solenoid stops pressure from building when it has power, and full pressure is applied when the solenoid has zero power. But if there is a fluid supply problem, then full pressure may not be achieved. Worn transfer clutch plates can also cause slippage.

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