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Brake bleedingtip/trick, will it work?


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Eh..

 

Air is lighter than brake fluid, so I'd imagine that if you let it sit overnight, the only thing that would be pushed out, if anything, is the brake fluid.

 

Be safe, bleed 'em right. Your brakes are the most important part of your car, so I wouldn't experiment.

 

...but that's just me.

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Yes, can can gravity bleed it, but you want to make sure you have someone topping off the brake fluid - going dry in the master cylinder sucks, you need to totally redo the entire system.

 

IIRC, gravity bleeding is useful for when the entire system is dry, you let it fill most of the way up. I'd still follow with a normal bleed, though.

 

-=Russ=-

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my prefered method of bleeding is a bit quicker, and easier (believe it or not) - no special bleeder screws are required either

 

get two bottles of brake fluid - one needs to be about half-empty - and some hose that fits snugly over the bleeder screws

 

remove master cylinder cap - make sure it is completely full of brake fluid

go to first wheel - open bleeder screw (about 1/2 turn, maybe more), and shove one end of hose over bleeder (CONNECTION MUST BE TIGHT) and SUBMERGE the other one in your half-empty bottle of brake fluid

 

start pumping - check the MC after about every 3-5 pumps - no one wheel should take more than 15 or 20 pumps.

 

close the bleeder screw - make SURE you do not disconect the hose from the screw, or remove it from the fluid until the bleeder screw is TIGHT

continue to bleed the rest of the brakes (in a diagonal fashion preferably, but it really does not matter) - note, you will fill your brake bottle at the wheel as the process progresses, make sure it does not overflow

 

if the car is SECURELY jacked up, you can run the engine so you get power brakes durring this process - makes it a lot easier

 

this always has worked for me, and I have had to do a lot of brake repairs (mostly on other cars), including the rear disc conversion - trust me, it works well

 

yes, I know I will get a response saying that this method doesn't work for such-and-such reason - I have used it many times, and it has NEVER let me down - I also have a 71-year old mechanic friend who has used it since before I was born, without any problems - it takes me about half an hour to bleed all 4 brakes on my soob

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Yes, gravity bleeding is accepted practice, and is generally used on systems that have some stubborn air trapped in them that normal bleeding will not remove. Generally, gravity bleeding will get that air out. That said, it takes a long time, so most people just do it normally.

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I go with the 2 person bleeding job. Having the car running makes bleeding faster. Have the person pump the pedal 10x and hold down crack bleeder. do that 3 times per tire starting with the rear passenger - front driver - rear driver - front passenger.

 

The biggest thing is to make sure the adjusting screws for rear drum brakes are set at the point where the back tire will barely free spin.

 

I'm not saying anything bad about 85sub4wd way of doing it, but the way I listed, is more carefree. You dont have to worry about having hoses tight on the bleeder, you dont have to move around bottles of brake fluid for each tire..

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my prefered method of bleeding is a bit quicker, and easier (believe it or not) - no special bleeder screws are required either

 

get two bottles of brake fluid - one needs to be about half-empty - and some hose that fits snugly over the bleeder screws

 

remove master cylinder cap - make sure it is completely full of brake fluid

go to first wheel - open bleeder screw (about 1/2 turn, maybe more), and shove one end of hose over bleeder (CONNECTION MUST BE TIGHT) and SUBMERGE the other one in your half-empty bottle of brake fluid

 

start pumping - check the MC after about every 3-5 pumps - no one wheel should take more than 15 or 20 pumps.

 

close the bleeder screw - make SURE you do not disconect the hose from the screw, or remove it from the fluid until the bleeder screw is TIGHT

continue to bleed the rest of the brakes (in a diagonal fashion preferably, but it really does not matter) - note, you will fill your brake bottle at the wheel as the process progresses, make sure it does not overflow

 

if the car is SECURELY jacked up, you can run the engine so you get power brakes durring this process - makes it a lot easier

 

this always has worked for me, and I have had to do a lot of brake repairs (mostly on other cars), including the rear disc conversion - trust me, it works well

 

yes, I know I will get a response saying that this method doesn't work for such-and-such reason - I have used it many times, and it has NEVER let me down - I also have a 71-year old mechanic friend who has used it since before I was born, without any problems - it takes me about half an hour to bleed all 4 brakes on my soob

This is the best way to bleed brakes, I would add only one thing, pump the pedal slowly and smoothly. You don't want to make big air bubbles into small bubbles. Small bubbles can attach to the inside of the system and are really hard to get out.
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it takes a long time, so most people just do it normally.

Well, beings that I am an only-child and my parents work alot, and the fact I don't get my license until May 2, I have nothing but time,

 

 

Anyone want to gimme the rundown on how to Gravity Bleed?

 

Also, what about doing this? http://www.moccsplace.com/images/brakes/bleeder/bleeder.htm

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Well, beings that I am an only-child and my parents work alot, and the fact I don't get my license until May 2, I have nothing but time,

 

 

Anyone want to gimme the rundown on how to Gravity Bleed?

 

Also, what about doing this? http://www.moccsplace.com/images/brakes/bleeder/bleeder.htm

 

That method in the link works, and is almost, the only way to do brakes on some bikes from what their owners tell me. I haven't used that method myself, but just may try it. My Wife is willing to help bleed brakes, but she does, ahem, "complain" about it afterwards. Something to do with her legs being tired....

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