93 Loyale Rear whl bearing HELP

[RONAN]

I took the car into the shop and they verified that the rear wheel bearing had disintegrated. They removed the hub/arm assembly and sent it to their machine shop. They tried without any luck on removing the outer race. Then they called the dealership and was told that it takes special tooling and some sort of special machining to remove the outer race at a cost of $350.

 

My question is; has anyone encountered this situation and removed the outer race themselves & how they went about it???

 

I have`nt seen it yet, but was wondering if it would be possible to use a burring tool and gouge the inside of the race on both sides and collapse it inward???

 

I sure could use some help & input on this calamity...

[hooziewhatsit]

$350? ouch...

 

it sounds like they're trying to pull the outer race out of the car? It will only out by pounding it 'into' the car, if you know what I mean.

 

what I ended up doing...

 

find a MFH (medium * hammer) and a socket that will only impact the outer race, and pound it to the inside of the car. It will come out eventually. The machine shop should have a puller/pusher? that should be able to do this also.

 

To get the new race in, find a small piece of metal (or something similar) that will allow you to pound the race in evenly without 'walking' it in in a circle. Again, the machine shop should have a puller/pusher to do this also.

 

good luck

[subarunuts]

Wow - you have some real winners for mechanics... sorry to hear that. The bearing is an "assembly" somtimes one peice, and sometimes three peices that slides into the back of the trailing arm. To get it out, just put the outer bearing into the race, and smack it with a BFH. I use a 35mm axle nut socket to pound them out generally. The only "special" tool involved would be the rear wheel bearing socket which just removes the bearing nut from the back of the arm. You can remove that with a chisel and a hammer tho. It's a big ring with 4 notches in it. Just unscrew it and the bearing will pound out the back. The socket can be ordered online.... can't remember where, but do a search and you'll find it. I think mine was about $25. New rear bearings are about $40 - $50 per wheel. The job isn't that difficult, and you sure as heck don't have to remove the trailing arm, or get a machine shop for it.

[Log1call]

I agree with the above. The only other trick is that ocassionaly the outer can rust in, then if the bearing is in bits anyway you can run an arc weld around the inside of the outer bearing race which shrinks it and it pretty near falls out.

[fbh]

Wheel bearings have races? Damn, I thought only CV joints had races. Oh well, you learn something new every day

 

This BFH you speak of - here's the plan for the ultimate one - if you can find a smallish sledge hammer (3 to 5-pound), cut its handle off so it's about a foot long. THAT is a B.F.H. - I had a normal hammer with which I had to pound a driveshaft out of a CV joint with. Took 20 or 30 hits, had to hit with all I got. However, with the BFH constructed in this manner, I lifted it about 1ft. and let gravity swing it down onto the CV joint - a gentle "tink" and the joint was rolling around on the floor :D:D

[idosubaru]

used hubs for $45

1800 358 8770

[mdjdc]

Okay, first; get the parts back and don't go to that mechanic again. You can do this yourself. It's not fun, but with the right tools it takes about an hour or two. More for you since you have to put the trailing arm back on. Next, go to an auto parts store and get a bearing race installation tool. This will make removal and installation much easier. Tske the retaining ring off of the inner side of the arm (this is the most difficult part of the job) with a hammer and a punch. It spins off, but is usually peened in so you will have to bend the metal out of the way. Once you have the ring off you can take the tool with the proper adapter and place it in the middle of the race on the luter side. Hit this with the BFH and the entire race will come out of the inboard side. Once you have done this you can take the new race and use the tool to drive the new one in. It will beeasier if you place the new assembly in the freezer over night. Be sure you pack the new bearings if they are not a sealed assembly. Put the inner bearing in and then the retaining ring. put the outer bearing in and then drive the stub shaft back in. Now just reassemble the hub and remount the wheel and you are done.

 

 

If you have any questions you can call me. I've done a number of these.

 

Mike

 

804-393-0516

[RONAN]

Ok, this is turning into a real MONGOLIAN SAFARI!!!

 

Heres the latest, I seem to be the victim of a in-house coup attempt. The manager of the shop has no mechanical experience and all of the mechanics have been trying to make him look foolishly bad. The machine shop had given up on trying to remove the nut. The manager suggested that I either buy a new hub/arm assembly from the dealership or find a used one from a salvage yard, so I told them to let me have a shot at it. I took it to work, found a piece of pipe that closely fit the O.D of the nut and cut slots into the end of it to mesh to the slots in the nut. Then I welded a nut onto the end of the pipe. I fired up a oxy/acyt outfit with a small gas tip, heated the nut up and popped it loose with an impact. Pressed the old outer race out and sand blasted and washed the nut & bearing housing. I handpacked both roller assemblies & pressed the new bearing in, using the old race. Lubed & tightened the nut on and was on the road in 2hrs, back home. Since they were closed by the time I got back, I had my wife drop it off to them the next morning. This was 2 days ago. Yesterday, I stopped in, on my way home from work and found the car was still up in the air and the hub/arm assembly hanging, so I asked what was going on??? The manager said that the mechanic was having a problem installing the shaft. So I talked to the mechanic and he was swearing that the manager must have ordered the wrong bearing. I asked the mechanic if he had mic`ed the shaft journals and I.D of the roller assemblies??? He had`nt!!! It was if he had just given up. All he could say was that it`s the wrong bearing and that he told the manager to order another. The manager told him that it`s the right one and that he should force the shaft through by driving the castle nut on with an impact. The mechanic had enough since to refuse. I asked the manager if they had a micrometer and he looked at me like I just spoke russian. One of the other mechanics overheard me and handed me a cheap digital caliper. I took about 5 readings each and found that the journals were about .002 to .003 bigger than the I.D of the roller assemblies. Now I`ve been working with bearings for 30yrs and I`ve never seen a bearing manufactured wrong. So I wondered if there could be a possibility that they did indeed order the wrong bearing. I explained my finding to the manager and he said that he would call. I copied the bearing number on the roller assemby and handed it to the manager. He calls a different supplier up and gives them the number off of the federal mogul box. They look up the bearing for the car and tell him that all they carry is Timken and they can`t cross reference. He hangs up. I told him that he gave them the wrong number and that he was supposed to give them the number that is on the bearing itself. I told him that all manufacturers have there own catolog numbers on the box but the number stamped on the bearings go by a international number and are the same. He had that deer in the headlight stare. I asked him to call them back, look at the bearing and confirm if the numbers were the same. He refused, saying that he did`nt want to give them the impression that he was stupid??? So I finally uncorked and told him that he was a certified idiot and that I will go down the street and talk with them myself. I noticed that all of the mechanics had heard and were in hysterics at this. So I went to the parts store that I normally deal with and explained my delimma. They got a bearing out of stock, that they listed and it confirmed to be the same. I bought it with the ideal that if it fits, OK, if not, I can take it back. So I head back and find the shop to be closed...

 

Now, I`m wondering if when one of the roller assemblies failed and created a lot of heat, it might of torqued or distorted the journal and twisted the 2 journals just enough so that the shaft won`t go ??? I called some of the parts stores for a CV-halfshaft and was told that it would have to be ordered. Earliest E.T.A Feb 1st.

WELCOME TO MY WORLD OF INSANITY!!!!

[subarunuts]

Dude, this is just too big of a mess for such a simple job....

 

The spindle should slide in there - should be pretty tight. If not you can get a couple from a junk yard for next to nothing I imagine, and with a copper or brass hammer you can have them out in no time. Just smack em and drive them through the bearing. Dont have to remove the ring nut at all for this.

 

Although probably it's just a crappy brand of bearing or something that you got. I've never seen one of those shafts bent, and they are awful thick and made of some serious tempered stuff. The spindle splines will chew through the splines on the hubs almost without being scathed, so distortion of any kind on such a short peice is almost beyond belief.

 

This mechanic shop you have is what we in the Military would call a "Goat Rope". A manager with no mecanical skills? WTF?

 

Toss that spindle in the freezer overnight. and heat the bearing assembly with a torch. I bet you can make up a few thousandths and slide it in without too much trouble.