Numbchux Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 OK, so my loyale's motor has a blown headgasket, and needs some help, but sitting in the back of it, is the carbed EA82 out of my '85 wagon. anyway, since the carbed motor's got about half the mileage, and the loyale might have warpage/crackage, I'm going to replace all the seals, and use the carbed block, with the SPFI intake manifold/throttle body... anyway, I'm wondering what I can do to it that might yeild a little more power, I'd like it to be cheap, but how difficult the install isn't an issue, since the motor will be out anyway. I'm thinking Delta cams, but other than that, I don't think there's much I can do. any ideas? also, will an N/A spider intake bolt right up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rllywgn Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 i hope this doesnt sound moronic, but I've heard of folks doing there own prot and polish jobs. I havent done this myself but why not. from what I understand you can do it with a dremel tool and some patience. you may not want to do it but its an option, Also with as cheap and readily available as subaru parts are that should make it easier this site may give some some useful information http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.shtm rllywgn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 i tried it myself on XT6 heads. it's not that bad of a job, just time consuming which you say you don't care about. there's a fair amount of casting flash in the intake ports that can easily be cleaned up. have a good die grinder available, cheap ones take really really long to get anywhere. you're not looking for radical design changes in the ports, just cleaning up rough casting flash and gasket matching. proper higher level porting jobs where you change the ports would require bench flow testing to make sure you are equally changing all the ports. i posted before and after pictures at xt6.net. i'd also check the intake manifold gasket where it meets the head, on the XT6 the gasket was much smaller than the actual ports, so the gasket essentially blocks the passage. the EA82 isn't much different from the XT6 (same design) so i'd look at this as well. i posted pictures of the gasket covering the intake ports on the heads before and after i cut the gaskets down to match. a valve job is a good idea, no point in trying to make power on questionable valve seating and valve seals. if you don't want to do that, make sure the cylinders hold pressure. if you don't want to go through an entire head job, at least install the heads and do a leak down test on them before going any further. make sure there's no leakage through the valves before proceeding. the risk is that if there is leakage then you'll waste the head gasket to pull the head and have the valve fixed. but if it tests fine then you avoided the head work and $150 ish charges for that. if you can weld, install a turbo and run very low boost. i'd probably look to buy a small turbo before going with delta cams if you can do the exhaust work yourself. or do both if you can afford. turbo is so much easier to get power out of. get a good running engine and a low boost turbo. delta cams, exhaust, intake is all nice but NA is hard to work with for power. i have an XT6 and i think even that is a waste of time trying to get more power out of, not much return for the time/money. turbo is the only option now for me, besides good tune up and a good running motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted January 27, 2006 Author Share Posted January 27, 2006 I'm in the process of helping a buddy of mine add a lo-boost turbo setup to his impreza.....I don't want to mess with it good point on the port and polish! I think I'll do that well, the motor's got 140k miles on it, and I bet the HG's are origional, so I think I'll replace them anyway....I've never done a leakdown test, what's involved in that? (wow I feel like a n00b again....hehe) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85Sub4WD Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 one thing to realize is that almost all carb blocks had a 9:1 CR, where SPFI blocks had a 9.5:1 CR - so you will have a slightly lower CR with the carb block (less power) - if you put SPFI pistons in there, you will have a 9.5:1 CR the camshafts are also different - the carb ones hold the valves open slightly longer, and give you a better bottom end, and a lower top-end - I tend to get valve float ~5500-6k RPMs - the carb blocks redline at 6k, and I have seen SPFI cars have the redline at 6500, so be sure you obey the 6k carb block redline. - you will also need to block the ASV ports on the heads - that shouldn't be difficult. all that said, I have my factory orig. carb block, and a SPFI system from an '88 MY on my car - it all works beautifully, and I have never had a problem passing the state emissions test - a port & polish should give you plenty of performance out of the engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 carefull on the port and polish , dont go to far, just clean it up and get the mating surfaces and gasket area lined up , also on the intake you want the finished surface a little rough to help atomization of fuel , go with the turbo , it really is quite simple , and a bolt on , also the turbo y pipe will give you more offroad clearance , also remove all extra weight from car, gut it out, chop the nose , only carry what you need, SJR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 also, will an N/A spider intake bolt right up? No it will not. Not unless you put MPFI heads on the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingbobdole Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 just a thing of note... I have the carb blcok spfi as well... since its lower compression you can run a ton of extra timing! Makes it fastAR! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted January 27, 2006 Author Share Posted January 27, 2006 85Sub4WD.....I beg to differ on the Cam's, I swapped the cam case (stripped valve cover bolt) from this carbed block and my '88's block, and did extensive research first. the cams are the same. I was running with one of each for awhile, no difference. But I think the valve springs aren't quite as strong (or tend to be more worn out), which is why you get valve float a bit earlier. I've had both motors up to 7k, breifly also, the ASV's are already very blocked off, this engine is coming out of a car that I drove DD for a year....so those went early thanks torxxx....I was wondering about that SJR...this is not going to be an offroad rig I have other plans for that I don't have access to any welding/bending etc. equipment. nor do I have access to a junkyard with any EA82's (they're all rusted out!! not even worth junking!!!!), so I can't get a turbo xmember, or the turbo itself. it's just too much hassle, everything would cost money, and I'm not spending out of pocket cash on custom exhaust work when it'll probably just get an EJ in a year or 2 anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanislru Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 Turbo or ej(22t) it, I'm happy with the high comp turbo motor but I would like to mate the ej22t I have to the 4.44 d/R I'm working on. EJ-EJ-EJ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted January 28, 2006 Author Share Posted January 28, 2006 I'm just not a turbo guy, never really have been. mostly because I have a very heavy right foot, and the amount of easy power available with a turbo scares me and my driving record.... and yes, it'll get an EJ22 soon enough, but the lifted wagon needs it worse, and I can't afford to buy a second motor (not to mention the adapter plate or the time to wire it) in one summer and, this will be an autocross/rallyX/ice race toy (read: not real competetive, just fun), so lo-end torque will be more important than peak hp... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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