rugbyben Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 In the winter I go to valvoline for oil changes because i have no garage and its freaking cold in central PA. So last time they told me that I was low so my engine is consuming oil (duh!) and i should be using their "Max-life" at the very least ($45) and i should seriously consider switching to synthetic ($75-$100 depending on mix) Okay have a 2000 Imprezza Out Bank Sport with 72,000 miles. So still just a teenager by subaru standards. Would you consider it time to switch to somthing different then regular oil aside from the obvious regular advantages of synthetic. I have always experienced some oil loss between changes, I usually dont add any between changes. My regular frequency is about every 4,000 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 I'd check your oil at every other gas fillup at the least, and at 72k, she's just a baby, so i'd avoid the max life whatever snake oil they have and stick with the regular. I think that the lube shops are out to make a dollar anywhere they can, and are hoping that their cinsumers havn't realized that new engines are much more robust and reliable compared to any engine made in the 80's where 72k was a good time to start thinking about oil seals and piston rings, especially in the domestic market. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rugbyben Posted January 27, 2006 Author Share Posted January 27, 2006 thats what i was figuring. They were right that i am fairly low on oil by the end of my 4K miles. this has been typical for most 4cyl cars i have owned. for some reason the v8s seem to eat oil less..????? With checking oil every other fill up, which would be every other week for me, should i keep it topped off or just keep an eye on it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlelegacy Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 in the 80's where 72k was a good time to start thinking about oil seals and piston rings, especially in the domestic market. Certainly not the Japanese market:lol: ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RallyKeith Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 Yeah, if the max life is like the castrol high mileage your car will appear to use oil even faster. Those oils have detergents and oil seal conditioners in them that "burn off" faster than regular oil. My 88 RX would use 1 quart every 3,000 miles. I put the Castrol High Mileage in and it went up to 1 quart every 1,000 miles. If I was going to suggest anything it would be look over the engine for leaks. You probably have leaky cam seals or valve cover gaskets, anf the max life isn't really going to help any of that. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 With checking oil every other fill up, which would be every other week for me, should i keep it topped off or just keep an eye on it? As long as its above the min line you'll be fine, but if it starts to get close, adding a quart of oil is cheap insurance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnVT Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 thats what i was figuring. They were right that i am fairly low on oil by the end of my 4K miles. this has been typical for most 4cyl cars i have owned. for some reason the v8s seem to eat oil less..????? With checking oil every other fill up, which would be every other week for me, should i keep it topped off or just keep an eye on it? You shouldn't let it get more than a quart low. But certainly don't overfill either. AND be sure to check that you actually have oil when you leave the oil change place (Valvoline, et al). I know somebody who has a new (used) engine after MUCH pain because he left without oil... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
82bratavenger Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 Another Idea is changing the oil evey 3000 miles. especialy if you do a lot of "stop and go" in town driving. Besides the cleaner oil may even help with gas milage. Even if it is a mile or two, they add up. If you have the non-turbo type motor you might also try a can of engine restore. I know it works great in the older motors to help re-line the cylinder walls and restore some compression.You might have to ask some of these other "new" (non EA81 or EA82) subaru owners if they have used it or not. Just a thought. Wal-mart has it for cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
friendly_jacek Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 Besides the cleaner oil may even help with gas milage. Even if it is a mile or two, they add up. I have never seen that claim before. Can you reference that? I would expect the oposite, used oil may be thinner due to VII brakedown. Oil thickening due to oxidation and ultimately sludging would not happen before several K miles or couple of years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlelegacy Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 I have never seen that claim before.Can you reference that? I would expect the oposite, used oil may be thinner due to VII brakedown. Oil thickening due to oxidation and ultimately sludging would not happen before several K miles or couple of years. I know a lot of the lube joints make that claim. I can see long term benefits, ie, less wear on the internals = better effeciency. My question: I'm runnnig 10W-40 dino Penzoil. Any problems with that? I usually change every 3K regardless of the conditions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamal Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 So last time they told me that I was low so my engine is consuming oil (duh!) and i should be using their "Max-life" at the very least ($45) and i should seriously consider switching to synthetic ($75-$100 depending on mix) That's why I change my oil myself. If you buy Mobil 1 synthetic at a parts store it runs about $5 a quart. Add $10 for a Mobil 1 filter and you've spent $35 on what they're trying to charge you $75+ for. Crush washers are like $0.80 at the dealership. I use the new Mobil semi-synthetic stuff. Seems pretty good. They have two blends for 5000 or 7500 miles and it's not that expensive. I use the 7500 stuff because it has more sythetic in it but I don't really want to switch to full syn. I know a lot of the lube joints make that claim. I can see long term benefits, ie, less wear on the internals = better effeciency. Of course they would make that claim. That way people will change their oil every 3k miles, while you could probably go twice that with no problems. Nothing wrong with pennzoil 10-40. You could probably run 10-30. That would actually increase mileage slightly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiny Clark Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 Sorry, but the underlying problem looks to me like you don't check your oil at all. I don't check mine every other fill-up either. maybe every three to four weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBG Posted February 22, 2010 Share Posted February 22, 2010 Heh. Pennzoil is a parafin, or wax, based lubricant. It has its uses, but not in my engine. The way I do oil changes is when it both turns black and starts burning at about the same rate as my gas gauge, but I do drive older (EA82) engines. Alternately, I try to go about 3 months, but I drive a lot in wacky conditions... I have found the older Subys prefer "dino oil" or cheap crap, especially without a bypass filter system, but I'd have to agree that the shop is just trying to take you for what you've got. If you're trying to do right by your engine with any kind of regular oil change at all, the overpriced additive filled stuff will do nothing for the Subarus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted February 22, 2010 Share Posted February 22, 2010 Heh. Pennzoil is a parafin, or wax, based lubricant. It has its uses, but not in my engine. [...] I have found the older Subys prefer "dino oil" [...] If you're trying to do right by your engine with any kind of regular oil change at all, the overpriced additive filled stuff will do nothing for the Subarus.Crude oil is either paraffin-based, asphalt-based, or a combination of the two. Since you're partial to "dino oil", why do you prefer asphalt-based over paraffin-based? [...]I'd have to agree that the shop is just trying to take you for what you've got.After 4 years, I wonder if they're still doing that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRX2FFU Posted February 22, 2010 Share Posted February 22, 2010 I've used the max life and had good luck but only with vehicles over 150k. I also like lucas oil treatment on the "smokers" i've had. Works well too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i_subie Posted February 22, 2010 Share Posted February 22, 2010 I used to run Castrol Syn and then switched over to Mobil 1. After switching over to Mobil 1, that's when I noticed having only 2-3.5qts of oil left, after every oil change. That's with the weekend AutoX events and including lapping days. Then one day at a lapping day event, my rod bearings went out. All of my fellow Subaru buddies asked what engine oil I used. I told them Mobil 1, they all gave me hell. Told me I should go with Rotella syn 5w40. I haven't had any issues yet or having only 2-3qts left doing an oil change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted February 22, 2010 Share Posted February 22, 2010 Oh for cripes sake, another oil argument! And a 4 year old one too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Oh for cripes sake, another oil argument! And a 4 year old one too! I was just thinking the same thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBG Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Crude oil is either paraffin-based, asphalt-based, or a combination of the two. Since you're partial to "dino oil", why do you prefer asphalt-based over paraffin-based? Heh. Missed the original post date.... Bleah. Anyways, I find the paraffin base oils burn off faster when you're doing bad things with your car. And why have a car if you're not doing bad things? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike104 Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 If you really want to discuss oil, Bob the Oil Guy is the place to go. I've heard that Subies tend to not be that partial to synthetics, but I don't have any evidence or data to support that statement. I'm sure others will chime in on how good it is for their car. Your car, your choice. My owners manual on my 99 says to use 5W30 and 5W40 if temps are hot. I accidentally used 10W30 once and really noticed a difference. Lots of clacking for longer after start up. You could use a 0W30 weight oil for the winter in cold climates but that would probably be a synthetic. May want to check it more frequently. Minimum once per month oil check, weekly is better. There have been a number of posters recently that said they needed new engines after they ran the oil dry. Driving 101 is to make sure your car is ready to go, fluid, tire and lights checks frequently. Its much cheaper than a new engine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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