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how far out does the converter sit when completely dropped into trans?


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heres the issue. i bought i 97 legacy outback wagon AT, and the motor had been run out of oil and snapped a rod cap and wrapped it around the crank. i had to pull the trans out with the motor in order to get it out. we had pulled all the bell bolts and slid the converter off with the motor and a long tube had slid with it but not totally off the shaft. once completely separated i got the converter off and then slid the tube back in and went to turn in the converter and it doesn't seam like it dropped all the way in. i even tried to mock the block back into place and it looks like i still have about half an inch to go. what do i do pull the diff case off the trans to line the tube back up and if i do is there a gasket in between i will have to replace? and what is the tube? is it the pump drive? please HELP!!!! thanks.

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Not sure what to tell you. You may want to remove the torque converter entirely, and make sure the little cone seal on the end of the torque converter shaft is there, in tact, and pliable. You may want to squish it a little.

 

I've heard of people having tons of problems getting the torque converter shaft back in, and I've also seen them just pop back on.

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I've heard of people having tons of problems getting the torque converter shaft back in, and I've also seen them just pop back on.

 

I've personally experienced both...

 

It can be a pain, the way to check is to mesure the depth difference between the flex plate and the surface where the bell housing mounts on the engine, then compare that measurement to the distance between the bell housing and the mounting tabs on the TC.

 

It will end up taking a combination of wiggling, lifting, rotating and pushing and then it will just sort of pop into place...

 

edit; I just saw that you're in Allentown, I work down there, if you want me to swing by some evening to take a look, send me a PM with your phone number.

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i will give it one last try and then i will see what happens. it was kind of one those last things you did before leaving the garage for the evening and rather than gettin all mad i figured id just come in and research it. thanks for the offer, i will let you know. thanks again!

 

 

 

I've personally experienced both...

 

It can be a pain, the way to check is to mesure the depth difference between the flex plate and the surface where the bell housing mounts on the engine, then compare that measurement to the distance between the bell housing and the mounting tabs on the TC.

 

It will end up taking a combination of wiggling, lifting, rotating and pushing and then it will just sort of pop into place...

 

edit; I just saw that you're in Allentown, I work down there, if you want me to swing by some evening to take a look, send me a PM with your phone number.

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i PM'ed you instructions, maybe you can copy/paste my PM here for future reference/others. basically what hocrest said...be sure you're "coming out" in a push/pull method and not just turning and pushing. turning while pushing won't do any good (normally, unless you're lucky).

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doh! i just cleaned out my inbox this morning.

 

 

 

i PM'ed you instructions, maybe you can copy/paste my PM here for future reference/others. basically what hocrest said...be sure you're "coming out" in a push/pull method and not just turning and pushing. turning while pushing won't do any good (normally, unless you're lucky).
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wish i could have left the converter and trans in the car. i dont know if anyone has dealt with a locked motor but i actually had to take a sledge hammer and smash out sections of the block with the converter hangin on the back of the motor in order to even get to 2 of my conv. nuts. luckily when it locked it stopped with one of the nuts perfectly lined up in the little access window, so at least somethin kind of went right.

 

 

 

A reference photo of the torque converter in place with the engine removed. Mine stayed put when the engine came out.

2035802_83.jpg

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