Ignition tune-up...now a little sputter-sputter

[Steven Romero]

Experts,

 

I changed the requisite bits for an ignition tuneup on a 1986 GL-10 Turbo Wagon:

 

- wires

- d-cap

- rotor

- plugs

 

I used a Daichi rotor and D-cap, and NGK plugs and wires (OEM Spec).

 

Now the car is idling rough starting at 1700 rpm when I first turn the car over, then gradually dropping down to 900 rpm (which is in spec from what I read). It is misfiring quite a bit, and there is a flat-spot in acceleration. The car will maintain itself, and does not die, but it does idle rough, and there is a bit of engine noise when accelerating - it sounds like a lawnmower under the bonnet which makes me think the car isn't firing on all cylinders.

 

The car ran smooth before all of this. A couple of the old ignition wires had tears in the outer shielding, and that is one of the reasons I did the job in the first place even though things were running ok.

 

I'm thinking I either:

 

1) mis-matched the plug wires to the wrong cylinder

2) knocked lose a vacuum hose

3) dumb-mified the ECU after having the battery pulled for so long (could this cause a problem)?

 

I did remove a big hose from the throttle body which connected to the block on the drivers side. I put it back though. It didn't have clamps, so I wonder if maybe the gunk around the inside edges was acting like a seal to keep vacuum pressure inside.

 

All of the ignition wires wiggle a little as if the leads are not snug against the plug terminal, but they are all the way "down" on the plug. Is the wiggling normal?

 

Don't know. Any ideas?

 

Thanks

 

./steve

[hooziewhatsit]

it's probably one of the first two options you listed.

 

for you plugs, they should go 1, 3, 2, 4, going counter-clockwise. #1 plug is nearest the brake MC.

 

front

2 1

4 3

rear

 

For vacuum hoses, just look around and see if anything near where you worked looks loose or broken.

[wesley willis]

i'd definately check the wires. spark plug gap, too. mine ran like crap when i forgot to gap new plugs once.

[Steven Romero]

Ok I checked the ignition wires, and they are all in order on the plugs and the distributor.

 

I'm thinking about putting the old distributor cap and rotor back on to see if that is the problem.

 

I haven't re-gapped the plugs, but I did gap them before they went on to .040" - in spec right?

 

As I said I changed the distributor cap and rotor. There was no screw to attach the rotor shaft to the distributor shaft. Is this normal?

 

I had to remove the alternator to get at plug 2 - could this problem be a case of poor grounding?

 

Is it possible that the old coil isn't playing nice with the new components?

 

Help.

 

Thanks.

 

./steve

[tizzle]

There should be a screw on the rotor, on the side I think.

 

A problem I have with my wires is the inside of them like to pull up in the boot, so I have be careful to make sure they are seated properly

[fbh]

dang, I thought my soob idling at 500rpm was normal ..?

[Steven Romero]

dang, I thought my soob idling at 500rpm was normal ..?

 

500 rpm sounds a little low. You may need to adjust (advance) your ignition timing a bit.

[Steven Romero]

Ok well I fixed this finally. It seems that the rotor I ordered is a little different than the old one even though the part was listed for an '86 GL-10.

 

The old rotor has a metal ring around the inside of the shaft hole. The bottom part of this ring rests on top of the reluctor, so there must be some current between the 2 that is used by the ignition system in some way (I still haven't found out how...anyone here know?). The new rotor was all plastic except for the metal tip on top that interfaces with the distributor cap (don't know what that's called).

 

Anyway, I'm just glad this was an easy fix. Funny thing is while I was putting the distributor cap back on I noticed the driver's side rear tire was flat...it never ends.

 

Thanks for the suggestions everyone.

 

./steve