japanese 2.2 swap misses - what next and EGR Q

[moab austin]

sorry new here and plan to stay awhile - hope I am not breaking any rules but I need some help fast (hopefully)

 

I just swapped a japenese engine exchange motor in myy 95 imprezza (DD untill buggy is done) and it misses/with check engine light..

 

I have replaced plugs/wires/coilpak

 

I suspect injectors

 

bigger problem (maybe maybe not)

they sent wrong motor without egr..I capped off the port one back of head and am running it with no egr..what will this do? do I need to swap whole intake to run the egr? I would rather not..

 

I could reprogram if it is worth it for hte puter to not have egr period but I am not sure if the computer even knows its there?

with this mess with the puter?

 

thanks for any comments.

[edrach]

Two comments:

 

Why not pull the egr off your old engine and install it?

 

Check the trouble codes to see what's causing the CEL. That will help you find the cause.

 

JDM engines are usually pretty good; did you get any kind of warranty with the one you got?

[moab austin]

Two comments:

 

Why not pull the egr off your old engine and install it?

 

Check the trouble codes to see what's causing the CEL. That will help you find the cause.

 

JDM engines are usually pretty good; did you get any kind of warranty with the one you got?

 

I think the 30 day thing - I am still working on this

today I checked injectors, and all hte spark system..

the egr makes me swith the whole intake which I will prolly do.

unfortunately the "paper test on exuast" didn't go well so I was gunna compression/leakdown test it but the tester was missing some pieces..maybe tommorw.

funny thing is from about 1500 - 3500 (havent reved it higher than that) it has plenty of power..maybe a lifter isn't pumping up until higher rpm??

 

also checking hte manufacture date..this could be a later jap motor that has had a bent valve from timing belt break..I need to find out where to find the #'s on motor to check the manu date.

 

tommorow I will comp test it..it seems like the right front cyl. when I pukk that plugwire or injector nothing changes at idle - but the miss stays when you rev it up?

[Qman]

First, you need to put the intake from the car on the motor. That should kill your cel. My guess is that you may have a weak or slow to pump up lifter. It will need to rev or run at a sustained rpm to recover. I also doubt that you have a bent valve as you state it runs fine between stated rpm range.

[moab austin]

First, you need to put the intake from the car on the motor. That should kill your cel. My guess is that you may have a weak or slow to pump up lifter. It will need to rev or run at a sustained rpm to recover. I also doubt that you have a bent valve as you state it runs fine between stated rpm range.

 

maybe some different oil would change that?

IF it is the lifter can you get it to fix itself if it is slow to pump up..like if it is cloged? I assume if it is weak you mean leaking and in that case its shot..

 

I dunno that is my only suspect - leakdown and comp test tommorow..

 

could I do to comp. tests? one turning motor by hand and another while running and maybe some signs will come to life to further the lifter theory?

[hankosolder2]

maybe some different oil would change that?

IF it is the lifter can you get it to fix itself if it is slow to pump up..like if it is cloged? I assume if it is weak you mean leaking and in that case its shot..

 

I dunno that is my only suspect - leakdown and comp test tommorow..

 

could I do to comp. tests? one turning motor by hand and another while running and maybe some signs will come to life to further the lifter theory?

 

RE: your earlier question about EGR- does the JDM engine even have the tapping on the driver's side cylinder head for the EGR pipe to attach to? You might be able to fake it out by mounting an egr type intake manifold & the egr valve...let the egr valve suck air (filtered perhaps?) At least this way, the 02 sensor will see a change in the mixture when the EGR valve opens...might keep the CEL off? Dunno.

 

As to identifying the engine type- In '97, I believe, the 2.2 switched from hydraulic to solid lifters. Pull a valve cover off and you should see threaded screw-type adjusters if this is the case. (I think only the 2.5 used shims.) I think the hydraulic lifters can be replaced with the engine in the car...

 

You could try something a little unorthodox ( haven't tried it, just an idea) I wonder if you could do a cranking compression test and then a RUNNING compression test by leaving the compression tester in the one suspect cylinder and running the car on the other 3 cyls.

If you do try that , it might be wise to pull the connector for the injector for the suspect cylinder & also leave the plug wire connected to the coil pack & removed spark plug -ground the outer threaded part of the plug. (so you don't fry the coil pack or other electronics.)

Well, those are just my screwball ideas- I am not an expert...maybe others will be able to help more.

 

Nathan

[edrach]

If it's a sticky lifter, I'd suspect the more you run the engine the better it will get. A little seafoam might do the trick. Also, switch the manifold if you haven't already....qman's got the right idea there. It's unlikely you have a '97 or later EJ22 with a bent valve; and before '97 they were non-interference engines. If my EJ22 (a '91) has an EGR valve, I can't find it and I doubt they would add one on the newer engines. Lastly from what I know of JDM engines, they are usually pulled at 30 to 50K miles, well before any timing belt would normally break. My JDM engine came from a car that was "retired" with a bad transmission and had a documented 50K on it since it was installed out of the crate. Went into my car and has performed like a charm ever since; I just needed to replace a faulty canister purge control solenoid and run a can of seafoam in the gas to clear up a sticky IAC valve and all the odd idling and CELs were gone.