I joined shortly before all the nonsense at the Yahoo forum started, but now I'm glad there's a more sensible alternative - this site!

 

I'm putting a 1991 EJ22 in a 1988 Vanagon Westfalia. The engine is starting to go back together as the parts slowly arrive, and the wiring harness is also nearing completion. I'm still trying to decide between KEP and Small Car Performance for the conversion kit pieces, but I'm not really in any rush - just doing bits and pieces as the budget allows.

I did the EJ22 motor into another Subaru, so i used a board member to make the adapter plate. But i used the Kenedy Eng wiring "cheat sheet" and it was well worth the 20 or so bucks. I havn't used either's adapter plates so i can't speak to eithers quality.

I havent seen both side by side but I really like the Kennedy parts, they are really nicely made. I have heard bad things about the Small car engine crossmember but otherwise the rest all seems to be equal.

I havent seen both side by side but I really like the Kennedy parts, they are really nicely made. I have heard bad things about the Small car engine crossmember but otherwise the rest all seems to be equal.

 

Funny you should say that, but the Small Car mount is the main reason I'm leaning towards buying from them. Their design supports the engine the same way VW did it, and it provides a support for the exhaust system.

 

The only rap I've heard against the Small Car mount is that some syncro owners have had their KEP adapter bolts break, but I think that's due largely to the design of the KEP adapter plate kit - undersized bolts and a loose fit that allows it to move too much.

Funny you should say that, but the Small Car mount is the main reason I'm leaning towards buying from them. Their design supports the engine the same way VW did it, and it provides a support for the exhaust system.

 

The only rap I've heard against the Small Car mount is that some syncro owners have had their KEP adapter bolts break, but I think that's due largely to the design of the KEP adapter plate kit - undersized bolts and a loose fit that allows it to move too much.

 

Some folks have experimented by removing the lower two KEP adapter studs (attaching the VW transmission), drilling out the theaded holes in the adapter to close tolerance, and installing larger (stronger) bolts. Both ends of the lower fasteners are accesable from the bottom; might have to grind the side of the bolt head to fit from the engine side. From what I have read, this is mostly an issue for serious off-roaders (read: Syncro), and one or two SVX powered vans.

 

I own and have converted two vans ( a Syncro and a 2wd Carat) using the SC mount, and I really like it. The only downside is installing a shortened oil pan. Someone needs to come up with a shortened oil pan that projects forward (for more capacity) for use with the SC mount. Some folks just shorten the pan and then "over service" the oil level. So far, I haven't done either, but I don't off-road.

Other than that nit, I think the SC mount is a sanitary unit.

 

Cheers,

Dave

Some folks have experimented by removing the lower two KEP adapter studs (attaching the VW transmission), drilling out the theaded holes in the adapter to close tolerance, and installing larger (stronger) bolts. Both ends of the lower fasteners are accesable from the bottom; might have to grind the side of the bolt head to fit from the engine side. From what I have read, this is mostly an issue for serious off-roaders (read: Syncro), and one or two SVX powered vans.

 

I own and have converted two vans ( a Syncro and a 2wd Carat) using the SC mount, and I really like it. The only downside is installing a shortened oil pan. Someone needs to come up with a shortened oil pan that projects forward (for more capacity) for use with the SC mount. Some folks just shorten the pan and then "over service" the oil level. So far, I haven't done either, but I don't off-road.

Other than that nit, I think the SC mount is a sanitary unit.

 

Cheers,

Dave

 

One other question I'm trying to find an answer for regarding the SC mount is primarily of interest to those of us residing in cold climates... will the SC mount interfere with the installation of an engine block heater? I've had a couple of people tell me it's doable, and a couple of others have said, no way it will fit...?

One other question I'm trying to find an answer for regarding the SC mount is primarily of interest to those of us residing in cold climates... will the SC mount interfere with the installation of an engine block heater? I've had a couple of people tell me it's doable, and a couple of others have said, no way it will fit...?

 

I don't have any experience with engine block heaters so far, -20°F is about a low as we get here in southwestern PA.

 

However, just for reference, the SC mount wraps around the oil pan sides such that if you were to remove the pan with the engine installed, the pan attachment flange edges would just clear (or maybe scrape a little, but it will come off) the arms of the SC mount. The front, rear, and bottom of the oil pan have no real interferance from the mount, only the sides.

 

Speaking of oil pan removal, with the SC mount, the dip stick tube brace on the right side of the pan (in a Vanagon, remember) is cut away to allow the tube to pass through a hole in the right hand SC mount. When removing the pan, it has to be tilted down on the left side a bit and wiggled to let the tube become free.

 

If some blanket or such had to be adhered to the side of the pan, it might also present a problem getting to the flange attach bolts, but again, Iv'e never seen a subie pan heater.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Dave

The Subaru block heater is threaded into the bottom side of the block, next to the oil pan:

 

http://www.imageswest.ca/my_block_heater.jpg

The Subaru block heater is threaded into the bottom side of the block, next to the oil pan:

 

http://www.imageswest.ca/my_block_heater.jpg

 

Now that I see the picture, I understand. When I got home tonight, I took some pictures of that location, with a steel rule and a tape measure. Not too precise, but here is what I got: approximately 1/2" from the sealing surface of the sealing plug to the top of the mount rail. Approximately 1 7/16" from the outboard outer diameter of the sealing surface inwards towards the oil pan to the outer face of the mount rail.

 

I couldn't tell how far the heater projected from your photo, so I googled a P/N A0910AS100 heater element and saw a picture of that. I don't think that it will fit from what I see, but I would be happy to email you the pictures I took, such as they are.

 

Dave

Here's a photo I found on another site: http://groups.msn.com/NeilSundberg/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=24

 

I believe the engine shown is a 2.5L... I wonder if the layout and dimensions are the same as the 2.2L, as far as the block heater location is concerned?

Mighty close, but it seems to fit. The heater in the pic that you posted last night does not seem concentric, (the electrical plug location) whereas in Neil's heater it "appears" centered.

 

 

I don't believe there is any difference in the block location of the heaters between a 2.2 and 2.5L, and the SC mount is the same part number.

 

Dave

 

 

I don't believe there is any difference in the block location of the heaters between a 2.2 and 2.5L, and the SC mount is the same part number.

 

Dave

 

Absolutely correct. They mount in the same location.

Well, my Small Cart mount arrived today, and I did a test fit... the block heater is about 1/4 of an inch too large in diameter to clear the mount, so I guess I will have to live without it. :-\

Post a pic of tell me the markings on your block heater and I can see if I have one lying around that is smaller.