Subaru Jim Maple Ridge Posted February 8, 2006 Share Posted February 8, 2006 I have had little luck with Bars Leak, I use Gunk Heavy Duty Block Seal. This used to be available in an 'all weather' form that was compatible with coolants. You still have to put in a lower thermostat after you have sealed the motor. If the motor exceeds the temperature at which you sealed it, the crack will re-open. Bear in mind that this is only a temporary fix, and that you will have to flush your rad and heater core if and when you replace your motor. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarian Posted February 8, 2006 Share Posted February 8, 2006 You might want to contact your local fire department and emergency room before you pull a plug on an engine that's running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertwheeler Posted February 8, 2006 Share Posted February 8, 2006 You might want to contact your local fire department and emergency room before you pull a plug on an engine that's running. It dosent sound so good does it? But in reality you will pull the plug while the engine is cold and remove the wire off the cap..... its gonna be noisey.. very noisey but I cant think of another way to increase the odd's of the seal working. Not for the faint of heart Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zyewdall Posted February 8, 2006 Share Posted February 8, 2006 I'd get a new engine and drop it in there. A year or two ago, I did a head gasket on my beloved '85 GL (after doing alot of the block seal stuff, which worked for a few months), and it took four weeks (and then the carb and alternator died, and it needed a new heater core too). I ended up getting rid of it shortly thereafter. I wish that I'd just bought a used engine for $300 (which I know now is a two day job to swap), or even done the SPFI swap. Not that I don't like my '89 GL I got instead, but the guy I sold the '85 to drove it for 6 months then sent it to the crusher when the starter motor died (a rust free body too... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LuckyPistol Posted February 8, 2006 Author Share Posted February 8, 2006 UPDATE - UPDATE !!!! Well, got up this morning filled the radiator with water. Started it up. It sounded rougher than it ever has at idle.!! WTF?? I noticed same amount of white smoke out the tail pipe (which has never been alot really). So, I took it out on the road, drove about 15 miles. Once I got running, engine was smooth running (like usual). White smoke gone (as usual) But it did start getting hot as usual, and when I stopped, heard the coolant bubbling in the overfill tank (as usual). So, all in all, nothing has really changed. I also opened the overfill while the water was bubbling in there, stuck my finger inside, water was cold as ice? hmmm....... Except that my idle is rough as hell. I am thinking plugs due to the Block seal. But who knows. I will get plugs replaced and hoipefully my idle will be smooth again. If not, this car is going to melt like the witch in wizord of Oz.. "I/m Melting, I'm Melting"........ Btw - my opinion on the block seal, is that it isnt that bad, I didnt see much of the reddish stuff drain out of the rad. I can still hear water running through my heater core. Have heat for about 20 seconds, then blows cold (like before). so all in all, I would try it again. and still might....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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