Hello to all. I am glad to have found this!!

[mtsuberu]

I am trying to change spark plugs in my 2003 outback sport 2.5L 4cyl. What is up with the rubber plug on the end of them? And how do I go about removing the plugs? Sorry for my ignorance.

[Chef]

Are you referring to the plug wire boots? They just pull off. Grab the base of the boot though, not the wire itself.

 

 

 

  mtsuberu said:

I am trying to change spark plugs in my 2003 outback sport 2.5L 4cyl. What is up with the rubber plug on the end of them? And how do I go about removing the plugs? Sorry for my ignorance.

[tcspeer]

If this is your first plug change the most important thing is dont crossthread the new plugs. You dont want to have to deal with the problems that could cause.

  mtsuberu said:

I am trying to change spark plugs in my 2003 outback sport 2.5L 4cyl. What is up with the rubber plug on the end of them? And how do I go about removing the plugs? Sorry for my ignorance.

[Chef]

  tcspeer said:

If this is your first plug change the most important thing is dont crossthread the new plugs. You dont want to have to deal with the problems that could cause.

 

Yikes, no kidding, eh. I'm always paranoid about my plugs, and take extra care not to over-torque them too. Make sure you check the gap with a feeler gauge - new plugs should come pre-gapped, but you never know. Then I'd recommend getting some anti-sieze compound to coat the threads. I put a deep socket onto a socket extension, put the plug into the socket, and feed that in by hand (taking care not to knock any crud into the chamber). ONce hand tightened (which usually isn't really tight because it's a bit of a pain) I put the socket wrench onto the extension, and tighten slowly until resistance begins. If it fed well by hand, this might happen immediately. Once I feel resistance, I give it another 1/4 turn. Do NOT over-torque, you will strip the aluminum threads and be #@$$#%ed.

 

Good luck!

[tcspeer]

I do it the same way except before I get it tight by hand I take the socket off and wiggle the plug. If it is straight it will wiggle side to side and up and down. Then I finsh tightning with the socket and hand, then I put the wrench on it.

  Chef said:

Yikes, no kidding, eh. I'm always paranoid about my plugs, and take extra care not to over-torque them too. Make sure you check the gap with a feeler gauge - new plugs should come pre-gapped, but you never know. Then I'd recommend getting some anti-sieze compound to coat the threads. I put a deep socket onto a socket extension, put the plug into the socket, and feed that in by hand (taking care not to knock any crud into the chamber). ONce hand tightened (which usually isn't really tight because it's a bit of a pain) I put the socket wrench onto the extension, and tighten slowly until resistance begins. If it fed well by hand, this might happen immediately. Once I feel resistance, I give it another 1/4 turn. Do NOT over-torque, you will strip the aluminum threads and be #@$$#%ed.

 

Good luck!