Torque lock and suggestions

[Chef]

I have been experiencing torque lock for some time now, intermittently. It seems to be getting much worse now. I drive mostly highway and find the problem only occurs during short around town jaunts on the weekend.

 

I get the flashing power light indicating the solenoid c failure. I need to test the ground for the solenoid, but not sure where it is. I'd hate to do something drastic to find the problem was a bad ground!

 

Anyways, I am considering my options. My budget is low, and I've never attempted anything to do with a transmission before.

 

1 - remove the rear portion of the drive shaft.

 

2 - Open the extension housing and replace the solenoid

 

3 - Replace with a used tranny (sorry folks, 5spd swap is out of the question)

 

I like the first option as a simple intermediate fix. I'm concerned though - If I do this, what happens at the rear differential? Does this leave the place where the driveshaft connects open and therefore leaking fluid? If so, is there a good way to block/cover this?

 

Option 2 is probably ideal, but I'm definitely frightened to do this because I don't want to screw things up. PLus that damn solenoid is expensive new, and putting a used on in may not help much (if I can even find one).

 

Option three is too expensive, and probably unecessary. My transmission (knock on wood) seems in good shape, and replacing with a used one might be a disaster.

 

I'd appreciate all input. Thanks!

 

Edit - Another thought

 

Could the flashing power light indicate a different electronic problem - say a failing rear speed sensor? If the TCU thinks the rear wheels are spinning when they're not, it might then put too much power to them causing the bind too.

 

Also this thread:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38100&highlight=drive+shaft+rear+differential

 

seems to indicate pulling the rear half of the drive shaft will not cause a leakage at the rear diff. But if I remove it is there anything else I should be aware of by chance? I would much prefer to maintain my AWD, otherwise the car is an overweight gas guzzling wagon. I love my soob, but without AWD it really runs like an inefficient version of an accord or camry. That, and the 91 passat wagon 5 spd with a new SS exhaust I saw advertised for $1600 looks really appealling right now instead of continually dishing out moola on this soob.

[Chef]

Replying to my own post - is that like talking to yourself?

 

So I checked the resistance at the pins 4 and 11 on the connector from the trans. registered about 12 ohms, fluctuating mostly between 11.7 and 12.2 occasionally up to even 17 ohms. Checked on the other portion of the connector, not sure if possible, but no continuity. Should be good, but since my problem is intermittent, I imagine it would only occur when running. Maybe I could disconnect and check after I notice torque-bind begin. Not sure if this might cause the system to crap out.

 

I also noticed that when I plugged the connector back in, it made some kind of odd noise (buzzing) from the transmission for about 5 seconds, then it went away. When I started my car the power light flashed 16 times.

 

I also tried pulling stored codes - problem was that removing the connector and putting the key in the on position produced all sorts of errors, basically every possible one (e.g. 24, 32, 11, 22, etc). I currently have the battery unhooked and hopefully this will clear the codes. I'll check again later.

[Andyjo]

change your tanny fluid?!

[Chef]

change your tanny fluid?!

 

Done - flushed by a shop a while ago, didn't help. I figure I'm in this proper now. Old cheffy might get his first taste of transmission work. Great...

 

I'm mostly worried about not being able to put the rear housing back on properly.

[ericem]

I want to tak out my rear housing of my tranny to but I don't hav much experience. what u think, anyone have instructions on how to change solenoid c and the clutch packs? and what do I need to watch for?

[Chef]

I want to tak out my rear housing of my tranny to but I don't hav much experience. what u think, anyone have instructions on how to change solenoid c and the clutch packs? and what do I need to watch for?

 

Changing the solenoid and clutch packs is easy - it's removing the rear housing extension that is a pain. I think it goes something like this - drain trans, remove the driveshaft from the tran rear and collect fluid, undo the exhaust hanger, move the exhaust out of the way, put a jack under the rear of the tran, remove the crossmember from under the transmission with tran mounts, then lower the rear of the tran slightly - not sure how much it can be lowered safely. Then remove the 14 bolts or so around the rear housing, pull off, get covered in tran fluid, clean up, and take a peak. The solenoid is attached with 2 bolts, and the clutches pull right out.

 

When reinstalling, there's a new gasket that needs to be installed, then reverse instructions.

 

But, i may be missing a few important things here. Search for info here and on bbs.legacycentral.org.

[cookie]

I wonder if you could find a late model tranny that blew up something else? I bet the clutch packs are interchangeable. When I was a broke kid in school I used to sponge parts from shop cores. The mechanics would ften let me have blown up motors and trannys and I would mix and match parts. For example one engine might have main bearings that were like new and anther might have good pistons. I loved the fact that transmissions were often much the same internally over several different brands. I often used International truck bits to make Ford and Chevy trannies because they were cheap and unwanted and the only different parts were mainshaft and tailshaft. Anyway, with some research I bet Subaru and a couple of other Japanese companies use this tranny. A bit of research might show you what fits what or maybe you can get your hands on some subaru cores. Just for example my BMW and Corvettes, several other GM HP cars, Ford, Mercedes and Audi use ZF trannies that share internal parts. I know this because BMW does not sell the parts alone and I thought I might need to source ones later.

[ericem]

so if i open the rear differential, in my garage u think ill mess anything up? And how heavy is the rear differential?

[Chef]

so if i open the rear differential, in my garage u think ill mess anything up? And how heavy is the rear differential?

 

I think you're confusing the transmission and rear diff. The rear diff is connected to the rear axles, and is driven by a drive shaft from the transmission. In the case of torque bind, it is not often the culprit.

 

The rear extension housing of the transmission is the very end case on the transmission where the driveshaft connects to. It is in here that the AWD clutches sit, and solenoid c. To be honest, it is a straightforward procedure, but I'm always very paranoid about these kinds of operations, mostly because I NEED my car for work, and it's my only one.

 

cookie -

 

That's a good idea, but the problem is so few Subarus seem to end up in junkyards around here, and when they do, they often seem to have ok trannys (go figure). I guess that speaks well about subarus, but doesn't help me much. Still, I will call around.

[cookie]

there seems to be a lot of the GLC types in yards around here but Legacys tend to be on the road. You have to wreck one to kill it. When you aren't looking for one and have no place to store it a great parts car will come up.