bgd73 Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 Hello! I have asked about this previous (almost a year ago?). I didnt get back to responses for my 93 loyale's prob. I have the engine light on after 4th gear 45mph. and it stays on. I bought a book to get the codes off the ECM and it does not match the problem. I cleaned th flow sensor on air housing, did not work (car wont even run with that unplugged) so, I am at a loss. What is first common part to go? (like an o2 sensor or mass air flow on GM) Where to get, if there is a common problem ?(not by subaru, but cheap replacement equivalent.My local parts store had outrageous prices for the tiny gadgets). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azsubaru Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 What code(s) show up on the ECU? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgd73 Posted March 1, 2006 Author Share Posted March 1, 2006 It was a gadget near the thermostat, something thermal monitoring. Again it was some time ago, I said the heck with it and kept on running after pricing it for repair (ridiculously expensive). Rather than check it out again, with my missing Subaru book, I tried here for common problem. -25F to 90F outside temps, I'd break another one anyway.... Anyone in Maine with a loyale whose check engine light isn't on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zyewdall Posted March 1, 2006 Share Posted March 1, 2006 Does it still run okay? My GL has had the check engine light on for the past 6 months, and I suspect it's the O2 sensor (haven't checked it yet), since it still runs fine. Is that the code you're getting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted March 1, 2006 Share Posted March 1, 2006 Anyone in Maine with a loyale whose check engine light isn't on? I am in CT and my Loyale with 193,000 miles check engine light isnt on ..for the first time in 2 and a half years...Mine was the EGR sylinoid...tried replacing it with used ones with no luck...just broke down and got one from the dealer....all better now. EGR sylinoid is one of the most common check engine light things (code 34). Part new is over $100 and takes a whole 5 minutes to replace...or just get a roll of black electrical tape and do what alot of us do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revbill Posted March 1, 2006 Share Posted March 1, 2006 Part new is over $100 and takes a whole 5 minutes to replace...or just get a roll of black electrical tape and do what alot of us do Speaking of EGR solenoids, does anyone know if the part called the "Purge valve assembly (for EGR valve)" at thepartsbin.com is the right kind of soleniod for the EGR? I think the only difference between the two is the wiring, so I'm wondering if this is what they are talking about. There is a picture of it here: http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/thepartsbin/quote.jsp?make=SU&year=1992&product=B7079-60044&application=000512384&part=Purge%20Valve%20Assembly&category=All&dp=false Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holmes Posted March 1, 2006 Share Posted March 1, 2006 revbill - Yeah, that's an EGR solenoid alright. I saw that a few weeks ago. It's about time they started selling those in the aftermarket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DMX Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 My 92 Loyale was getting the #34 EGR light. One way to check the solenoid is to put 12 volts from the battery. It will click if it works. Since I replaced mine with a JY part it has been intermittent, but getting better. The light comes on sometimes for ~5mins, then goes off. It is easy to replace all the vac lines for the EGR as well. You can pull off the EGR valve easily and clean it up too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hank Roberts Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 My 92 Loyale was getting the #34 EGR light. One way to check the solenoid is to put 12 volts from the battery. ... Check the actual passageways the gas is supposed to flow through, on both sides of the valve -- on the 1988 I bought, both of them were packed solid with carbon. Took two different mechanics to realize it had two passages that needed checking. And using 12 volts from the battery gives a far stronger signal to the solenoid than the current sent from the engine computer, I remember reading, so you won't get a fair test by direct wiring 12 volts to it (besides the chance of blowing the ECU, which the first mechanic to work on my car did by trying this test method). Wish I'd known more about Subarus a year ago, oh, in many many ways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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