bgd73 Posted March 4, 2006 Share Posted March 4, 2006 I cleaned my car recently... This winter aged it about 12 years (I painted touch-up last spring). What can I goop my car up with , that will never leave it? All I need is simple white, even if different shade. I found a website, may try this. Rent a sprayer and wait for a 70 degree F day. I even put straight undercoating on an old soob once, and it didnt last as well. http://topsecretcoatings.com/ Anybody tried that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarian Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 There was a recent thread about using Rustoleum. It seems like a pretty good way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75subie Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 yeah, i bought all the stuff to paint my 86 brat from Maine. i just got a $8 can of gloss navy blue rustoleum, a high density foam roller, a bunch of sandpaper and a foam brush. i am going to test this method on a fender before the whole car is done. it should be pretty scratch and rust resistant though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbrickell Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 I replaced the rear hatch on my VW Golf with one that was the wrong color. I went to an auto body supply shop and they mixed me up a couple spray cans of factory color. I sprayed the hatch in my driveway and clear-coated it. Looks darn good for me not having the time to put much effort into it. On your car, I'd do the same. Get some factory paint in cans, get some clear, get some primer. Strip off any easzy stuff like signals, handles, etc that you want to. Mask off the glass real good. Sand stuff and fill dents etc with filler as you wish. Prime, dry, then color, dry, then clear. If you want, you can wetsand in between, but I didn't care. If you use a light color like white it will be way more forgiving than a dark color. I think you could do a pretty good job actually. My dad once painted an old Ford truck with a roller and house paint! Actually, it was surprisingly presentable. The keys are as follows: Mask well and don't skimp on this step. Remove parts that you can first. Realize that paint wont hide things, so do body work if this bothers you. Don't lay on paint too heavy and get runs, many light coats better than thick ones. Lighter colors are easier. Clear it afterwards. Let coats dry in between. Practice on a car that it does not matter if you make a mistake until you get good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 Maybe just for Info, But there it Goes: I painted mine with a new kind of paint avaliable here not too expensive; maybe there is cheaper. The paint is Called "Klass" and is Polyurethane based, so it didn´t use thinners, and even brake fluids can´t damage it. Here is the Link for CentralAmerica: http://www.surquimica.com/Products/servicios.asp?aplicacion=Automotriz I Think this will be a great Option. Also I tried the "Glassurit" Polyurethane too, I painted a friend´s car with it... But it is Too expensive. (Made in Germany) but is a very good paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgd73 Posted March 5, 2006 Author Share Posted March 5, 2006 Thanks! Tried the rustoleums, auto parts store spray cans available (many brands!) None have worked. I've sanded, cleaned primed sanded cleaned painted sanded and painted. Normal Instructions aren't even working.I got thinking of the 50 year old military planes I worked on in this area, through 30 years of Maine, staying tough after a 400mph trip and -30F not just at altitude. I thought of "Grampy's" house with the military spec battleship gray that lasted years and years even after he was gone! (where did that ww2 veteran get that?!) I will try the stuff that emphasized industrial strength , see what happens. It would make sense to be something from the miltary, or other tough industry, ( like existing in Maine!)Heck, if you even let your car get dirty here the electrical craps in mysterious places. Why it don't stick is a real nuisance. I have heard mention of resin/epoxy/urethane based paints doing well, as long as there is nearly Zero H20 in chemistry of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbrickell Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 Well, if super finished appearance is not the key, and protection is, try to find what in the military they call CARC paint. This stands for chemical agent resistant coating. CARC is good stuff, usually comes in desert tan or olive, maybe others. It is meant to last through chemical attack, etc. If the fumes don't kill you putting it on, you'll enjoy it. It will last forever. Your car will look like it should be in Iraq. You can apply with a brush, roller, etc. I'd imagine there is carc paint laying around at every reserve base or guard unit in the world. Maybe someone would hook you up with some. Maybe a google search or ebay would turn some up. They also make special paint for sailboats, ships, etc for marine environments. Being in Maine, you could probably turn some if this up. Would probably be around after WW3. A marine supply shop might be worth a look. What about that white paint they use on oil tankers, barges etc. That stuff is nuke-proof, and probably available in a place like Maine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgd73 Posted March 5, 2006 Author Share Posted March 5, 2006 Ok Got It! I just need some "C5FeO5 / Fe(CO)5" in a can. If it works for an F-117 stealth fighter, just maybe it will stick to my car.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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