alexk02 Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 Does anyone have a good procedure for replacing front wheel bearings for 99 Legacy, manual trans.? I definitely will not be able to press the old ones out of the hub/press the new ones in. I am looking for the easy way to take off the hub assembly and take it to the shop for pressing out/in. Any suggestions, shortcuts, warnings, tools, etc. is greatly appreciated. I've ordered the new bearing from 1stSubaruParts.com. Do I need to ask the shop doing the pressing to add greace to these bearings? Thanks, Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPX Posted March 8, 2006 Share Posted March 8, 2006 Make sure you have the seals for the knuckle as well as the bearings. A good machine shop will know that the seals need to be installed when pressing the new bearings in. They should observe how the old ones are oriented so the new ones go in the correct order. I think one seal needs to be loaded before pressing the bearing itself (or is that the rear knuckle?) The picture below is the rear hub, but the idea is similar. The CV/axle is the real bear. You need break loose the axle nut (and be able to re-torque it with a new nut at reassembly). You might have to the tap the outer side of the shaft to weasel it out of the knuckle. Be careful not to mess up your new bearing seal when putting the shaft back into the knuckle. If you intend to replace the axle as well, the spring pins (not found on my rear axles but are on the front) are supposed to be a total headache to drive out. Make sure you drive them out the correct direction. The shaft should pull out of the transaxle with a large flathead screwdriver or prybar. Oh, and hang up the brake caliper with a clotheshanger so you don't have to mess with disconnecting the hose. You can leave the strut assembly on the car, the the two bolts have to come off to take the knuckle off. Be ready to take on the ball joint and the steering tie rod as well. A pickle fork or ball joint separator will help here. Maybe this is a good time to change them as well? Tools: 2 foot breaker bar with 1/2" drive 4 foot cheater bar to slip on the breaker bar 22mm (is it?) for the axle nut balljoint puller/seperator or pickle fork Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexk02 Posted March 8, 2006 Author Share Posted March 8, 2006 JPX, thanks very much. The axle nut is 32mm for 99 Legacy. Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjo Posted March 8, 2006 Share Posted March 8, 2006 make that 1/2" drive a 3/4" drive... don't want to be breaking any breaker bars now... and 1 1/4" is just about 32mm, also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frag Posted March 9, 2006 Share Posted March 9, 2006 1 1/4" is just about 32mm, also. Good thing to know given the cost of that socket size. My converter shows 1 1/4" to be .25 mm too tight (31,75 mm). Does actual practice show that it works? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted March 9, 2006 Share Posted March 9, 2006 Is the ox sensor 32 mm? I used a 1 1/4 on that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frag Posted March 9, 2006 Share Posted March 9, 2006 Is the ox sensor 32 mm? I used a 1 1/4 on that. Are you sure? Seems like a pretty big sensor to me! On my car it's 17 or 19 mm IIRC. Certainly no more than 22mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted March 9, 2006 Share Posted March 9, 2006 With my memory I'm never sure of anything anymore. It may have been 7/8 now that you mention it. I do feel sure that it was one of my old SAE wrenchs, LOL. I'll try to remember to look when I go home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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