Wayne Boncyk Posted March 13, 2006 Share Posted March 13, 2006 Here's the deal - I distrust Haynes and all other second source "references" about Subarus, because they have at one time or another 1) given me wrong info, and 2) made me do far more work than I later found was necessary to do a job. My job today - replace the water pump on my '96 Outback, 2.5L engine. My question - Haynes says that I need to remove the two left cam pulleys and the rear timing cover on the left side in order to remove the pump. Is that so? I currently have the front of the engine partially disassembled (belts, fans, crank pulley, timing belt idler and tensioner, timing belt) all off the engine, and I have the left cams held in place with my home-made replacement for the $130 cam holding tool, that I made out of a pair of 17mm sockets, couple of bolts and lockwashers, and some steel barstock. Trouble is, I can't tell just by looking of I can get that old pump out without doing more disassembly. Anyone with some experience have any advice? If I have to pull the cams and the rear cover, how do I do that without the valves crashing into each other and wrecking themselves? Any advice would be welcome here!! (and of course I'm going to put on a new timing belt when I put it all back together....) THANKS for your help!! Wayne B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 13, 2006 Share Posted March 13, 2006 i don't recall needing to remove the cam sprocket and rear timing cover to do the 2.2's and 2.5's i've done but that could be bad memory.... i did a couple last year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a97obw Posted March 13, 2006 Share Posted March 13, 2006 No, you do not have to remove the cam pulleys and the rear cam belt cover. What you DO have to do is note whether or not your new water pump has the rubber dog leg seal on the side, or take the old one off of your old pump and put it on your new pump. It's a tight fit, but it will go on. By far the major concern is trying to keep the gasket aligned with the holes in the pump when fitting it to the engine. You might even gently twist the coated metal gasket to make it go on mo' flatter (yes, I can say that!). A piece of red scotch bright pad and a squirt or two of carb cleaner on the pad will do wonders for cleaning the mating surface on the engine. I follow that up with paper towels and isopropyl alchol....NOT beer! As far as "wrecking the valves"......IF you turned the engine over with the timing belt still on to line up the marks on the crank and the cam pulleys before you took the belt off......I don't think there is any way you can damage the valves with regard to hitting the pistons. When the crank mark is lined up, both sides of the engine have the pistons about half way up the stroke. I noted this when I replaced my head gaskets last month on my 97 Legacy 2.5 engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Boncyk Posted March 14, 2006 Author Share Posted March 14, 2006 Thanks, guys! It was possible to replace the water pump without pulling the rear timing belt cover, although, like you mentioned, it is a tight fit. Still, it went on without too much playing around and since I don't have any leaks I guess I got the gasket on right! BTW - thanks for the hint about the dog-leg gasket. It came off with the pump, and I never would have noticed if you hadn't said something about it. Anyway, thanks for the help -- I knew I'd find somebody on this board who had been down this path before. Wayne B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a97obw Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 Excellent! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 good job. haynes and chiltons will lead you astray all the time, arent you glad you stopped by to ask a question? ~Josh~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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