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How manny of you have rust subarus.


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My 87 GL-10 has rust on the door bottoms and just around in general. I think that where the rear sub fram bolts up is some what rusted. Since its a turbo and I love this car I would really like to keep it. I wanted to know how manny of you have patched the rear sub frame area inorder to keep your soob's.

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Old soobs + salt = rust.

 

I've been fighting the rust monster for years. Every spring it's scrape, sand, treat, prime, paint. I've tried lots of sprays and solutions that promise to keep rust at bay, had it zeebarted, use about three cans of undercaoting a year, everything I can think of. It's a pain, but I love the Brat (bought in new in 82). So I have to keep doing it.

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I have repaired the impossible (including very bad rocker panel on a unibody that started bending). Bent and cut pices all by hand and ended up in the hundreds of steel rivets. If I'm not mistaken the rocker ended up a 13 inch wide 60 inch long piece before bent up to fit (surprising how much those bends take up for footage).Used galvanized metal and 50 year caulking by GE to seal imperfections (i couldn't believe the package said "50 year"!). Then in really difficult benders and shapes used thin aluminum . Bondo, and cheap paint finished it up. Wallah! It passed a legal inspection and away i went for 6 more months. Rust and keeping it painted is nearly impossible. I have encountered scenarios seemingly a miracle lasting for a few years with epoxy based or oil based paint or paint that does not use oxygen as a cure (very powerful fumes). I am going that route this year. It can be done :) . Even a Maine victim.

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FWIW, two items I have found that are great against the evil of rust:

 

#1 is a product called T9 BoeShield. You can get it at bike shops, or some Yamaha motorcycle dealers carry it. It was developed by Boeing aircraft as a spray lube that would stick around. It leaves a waxy coating on things to protect from further exposure. Great stuff. A miracle in a can.

 

#2 is called Rust Bullet. This is great for painting surfaces that are likely to rust. Google it, there is probably a bunch of stuff out there on it.

 

If you live in an area with rust-causing properties, or own a car prone to rusting, you should have these two items on a shelf.

 

When you say the word BOE SHIELD, a little "aaahhhhh" sound emanates from above and a ray of light comes down from the clouds. Really good stuff.

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Also, check out waxoyl and por15.

 

I have used waxoyl for years, and it stops rust. No good for visible areas, but a lot of the rust comes from inside and the seams where there are layers of metal.

 

POR 15 I just found, and have some, ready to apply.

 

Dave

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had them, and hated them (not the cars, the RUST:eek: :-\ ) i`m sold on west coast cars, even if you have to pay $500 shipping, it sure beats playing around with rust for months. My AZ brat is one of the cleanest i`ve ever owned, and it was well worth paying for the shipping, here is a pic. as soon as it came from AZ, it was undercoated and treated.

 

wheels33018.jpg

 

Oh, its for sale BTW :-)

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I tried to post pictures of my Brat, But I'm having a hard time figuring out how to do this. :confused: Can anyone give me some pointers?

 

And 75 Subie: How much ar you selling your Brat for? Is there an add in the For Sale forum?

 

Thanks,

 

Tonmy

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If I lived in an area where they salted roads (Thank God I don't.), I'd make an underbody car sprayer that I would drive over everytime I parked in the driveway. Oh yeah, and if the car was worth it.:grin:

-Justin.

 

You can wash with water all you want. I won't help much. Salt and Mag Chloride wick their way into all of the microscopic body seams and start the rust process. The only thing that helps is to use something that ALSO wicks into the seams to stop oxygen contact with bare metal.

 

In Canada and Europe, used engine oil is sprayed onto and into car bodies. I've bored out the end of an old paint spray gun and have absolutely saturated the underside of old cars that I've owned with used oil. In time, the old oil drys to a sticky film that actually holds up well and freezes rust in suspended animation.

 

Try to be as environmentally responsible as possible in doing this. I used to use old cardboard to catch the drips, then burned the cardboard. This was better than letting it soak into the ground, I guessed.

 

This was when I lived in New Jersey. Rust problems aren't as bad here in the west.

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I'm getting rust! I never drove it during salt season and waited til a few good rains after. I think the bonehead that owed it before me DROVE IT in salt!? I never thought it would be possible and didn't do an undercarriage wash! Arrrrgggghhh! Will the problems ever end?!

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