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S#$TBURGERS!!! frapaceno in airfilter box!


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my Brat stated running poorly after a day wheeling,I assumed it was the cat because I stuffed it into a couple snow banks..so I took it to a muffler shop they didnt find anything other than grease underneath so they lowered it back onto the ground.opened the hood to check the plugs and took off the aircleaner box-nasty brown foamy S@#T spatter near the vent tube for the right head :mad::banghead::(

the mechcanic said and I quote "You musta blowd your headgasket"

 

so anyway should I replace both HG's? or just the one? it looks like pulling the engine would be easiest to fix.Or can I undo all stuff above the heads and have enough room to fix? I dunno I have to drop my tranny to do the EA81 shift slop removal,I suppose I could find a hoist and pull engine and tranny together-less bolts to undo for tranny...DAMNIT!!!!

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Ouch. Sounds like you may have a blown HG. I would make sure that the issue wasn't just caused by something like a bad PCV valve, which can wreak all kinds of havoc on the intake. If it's cold out, there may have been enough condensation in the crankcase to cause what you describe.

 

Generally, it's easier to just yank the motor if you're doing a HG replacement. Doing it in the car creates enough difficulties that it's worth the time to pull it out. If you do it, I would recommend just doing both sides. If one of them was weak enough to blow, the other may very well not be far behind.

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just like CV joints-if one fails the other one isn't far behind. How do I pull the engine and tranny?PCV system?New to soobs

 

 

 

"I blewd a headgasket" checked the oil, its the same color as the froth in Aircleaner

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PCV system: positive crankcase ventilation

 

Go to Subaru and ask for a PCV valve. Find the thing that looks like it on the back of the intake manifold. Clean out the hose that connects to that valve and any hoses that connect to that hose. Also, clean out the hoses going to the valve covers. (All of those components make up the PCV system).

 

It's easy to pull the engine, which must be done separate from the tranny. Get an engine hoist or a come-along or something to lift the engine, disconnect everything, remove the radiator, and pull. The book, How To Keep Your Subaru Alive has a good section on engine removal.

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Ive never heard that before about CV's. Often times I find myself replacing one a couple times, while the other remains good the entire time.

 

If the oil in the crank case is the same color, then i would suspect the head gaskets. Its not hard to pull your engine, just remove the radator.. then find the 4 bolts that hold your engine to the transmission. Remove those, then unbolt the engine mounts from the crossmember. Use a hoist or 2 friends and pull the engine (try for a hoist 1st).

 

Head gaskets arent that hard to do once the engine is out. You'll want to get new intake manifold gaskets and maybe new exhaust gaskets along the head gaskets. Oil pan gasket is a good idea since your down there anyhow.

 

-Brian

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I asked the auto shop teacher at my high school if I could borrow a compression gauge to check if the headgasket blew on my motor.He said a compression gauge would do nothing if it blew a coolant/oil hole.So I'll take the intake off and see what I find...

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As of now Ive taken the carb off,the gasket between the body of the carb and the secondary jets was rotted out like all hell and the gasket from intake to carb assembly was rusted big time near the coolant hole.I was thinking I should buy those gaskets and put it together to try it out,but Im wondering if I should dig deeper and check the intake gaskets?or should I just drian the fluid and make it as light as possible so I can pull the engine and check the headgasket.Does rust near coolant holes equal headgasket removal?

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Where the carb bolts up to the manifold, there is a good chance that you're leaking water/coolant there. It's a pretty narrow spot where the gasket can deteriorate and leak water into the intake passageways. I'd get a new gasket (or cut one yourself if you can't find one) and get some gasket sealer. I just used red ATV silicone on mine and it is holding so far.

 

I'd unbolt the intake manifold, you're almost there anyhow. Drain some of the fluid out of the cooling system first, so that it doesn't spill INTO the heads when you pull the manifold. I'd still want to check compression. It's easy, pretty fast, and will let you know right away that something is wrong with your motor.

 

Also, check the coolant for oil. Since the oil system is a closed system, under higher pressure than the cooling system, you'd be more likely to be sucking water in through the intake than blowing it into the actual oil passageways. On newer motors (I have a 2.5L and am dealing with my second round of HG issues on that motor) oil in the coolant is a dead giveaway that the HGs went out.

 

I believe that your oil system should be running @ approx. 30-50 psi. I don't believe the cooling system gets that high. Hrm, anyone second me on that?

 

Aaron

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the rad cap is rated for .9bar so a little less than 14 PSI

Duh. Sometimes the obvious isn't so... obvious.

 

Make sure when you're doing your comp. test that you've got plugs out and your battery is juiced. Slow cranking will give bad compression results. The first time I ran comp. on an older engine I was reading 30-60 psi, I was turning it by hand :lol:

 

From the sounds of it, I'd place my $$ on your carb base gasket. Good luck!

 

EDIT: I had the exact same issue with water leaking into the intake on mine. After checking numerous things and almost deciding it was a HG, I rechecked the carb. gasket and it was nasty! I had some milky oil. Looked like chocolate milk, haha.

 

Aaron

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the gasket beteween the two halves of the carb is giving me issues.The only way I can get it is if I get a $30-50 carb rebuild kit.for a $2 ghod damnr gasket...If I went with a weber would parts be more availble?does a weber 32/36 bolt up to the intake?

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the gasket beteween the two halves of the carb is giving me issues.The only way I can get it is if I get a $30-50 carb rebuild kit.for a $2 ghod damnr gasket...If I went with a weber would parts be more availble?does a weber 32/36 bolt up to the intake?

 

no you need an adapter plate... something with my carb/vac system went wrong and was sporadically shutting the engine down so I was taking everything apart, I pulled the 32/36 dgev off my dads nissan(shhh dont tell him) to see if it would fit and nope.

 

you can either make an adapter plate if you got tools, or you can buy one for $40-$50, you will be MUCH happier with a weber, especially if you have the 2bbl craptachi. as for the gasket you can get a roll of that paper or cork gasket stuff and cut one the right shape with a razor or something instead of buying the whole kit.

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You need to replace the carb base gasket, AND the intake manifold gaskets on either head. The base gaskets are a problem too, but the manifold gaskets are the ones that usually go. They leak coolant into the head while running. Don't mess around - just do them all - they are way cheap.

 

Do a compression check - if you HAVE compression, then it's the manifold gaskets. If you do not, then it's some other problem most likely.

 

GD

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  • 6 months later...

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