Tiem for a new car- a subie after all?

[Chef]

Well, for those that have been listening to my belly aching for the last while, I have run into an interesting situation. I have pretty much nailed my bad handling to either inner tie rods and/or my rack, and figure I could fix this relatively cheap. But last night I noticed a slight knocking sound from under my car, centred at the oil pan. Thinking possibly the oil pump is about to go - I have noticed with before but seems to get louder and quieter sometimes. I noticed it in a car wash bay, so it was amplified. Still... possibly a bad rod...

 

I was casually looking at cars for sale and came across this:

 

2000 Legacy, 5 spd, AC, PW, PDL, Roof Rack, Burgandy, 154 000 km (~90k miles). I need to go take a look. They're asking $7500 cdn - seems like a steal. Probably not many people here in the market for a legacy that want a 5 spd I suppose.

 

So my issue is this. My 92 legacy with 250 000 km runs good, needs the following:

 

Used Rack - ~$150 (if I install) maybe $300 installed

Exhaust fix - $250 - $400

Body work - Depending on whether I replace panels, who knows

Timing Belt - $150 - $450 - Again, depending whether I do it myself and what I replace (e.g. all cam seals, sprockets, tensioner, etc).

Valave covers leaking - I can live with this

CErtification - $50 (if nothing else needs replacing, to insure in my province, currently insured in another province)

E-Test - $50 Same as above

 

Grand Total: $650 (Cheapest) to $1500. This is on top of the ~$1500 I put in over the last year. And it doesn't insure my car will last.

 

2000 LEgacy financed over 3 years (assuming they take $500 off asking price) - All CDN funds

 

$7000 + 15% tax = $8050

8050 - 1000 down payment @11% financing for 3 years = 7050 + 2250 interest = $9300 or ~$260 for 36 mo

 

Now this doesn't ensure no other extra repair expenses, but they should be minimal for now.

 

What do you guys think - fix what appears to be a nice looking and otherwise well running car, or go for broke (and I mean BROKE) and get the subie?

[Chef]

I should add BTW I hope to get some trade-in for my current subie, but probably would be offered only $500 - seems insulting.

 

I'll ask them if they'll take $6500 for the legacy if it's good, and see what they'll counter-offer. If it's $7000 or less, and they'll give me $1000 or more for my sub, I'll definitely say yes. But I'm not holding my breath.

[Rob Kuhlman]

Chef -- Do what you want to do. From reading your earlier posts on your current car, you seem to be looking for a reason to get a new one. If you can handle it financially, then do it.

 

Rarely does it make sense economically to give up on an old car, unless rust rots it out. But car purchasing rarely is sensible; it's emotional as well. So how much is the emotional lift worth to you? If it's worth the extra ~$5000, then go for it and don't look back.

 

Whatever you do, do it with a mindset of 'no regrets'.

 

Rob Kuhlman

[cookie]

If it all checks out good my choice would be the 2000. You will still have to service it but at a rate that you can control. Your other car requires a restoration that somebody who has tons of time amy be able to give it.

[1 Lucky Texan]

Rob has a wise approach I think. Sometimes it's just time for a change.

 

I think your first offer on the 2000 should be at least 15% below asking. Sometimes its tricky to convince people you're serious AND make a low offer. Just bug them with questions, vissit for test rides twice, point out the potential costs of headgaskets and timing belts, etc. Feel free to tell them you're very interested, but it may not be finacially sound expense for your family, etc.

 

And, maybe someone who is close to you could give you alittle more for you old car if you promise to help them make it reliable. A school kid or someone needing a work car, etc.

 

good luck (and post pics of your new ride!)

 

Carl

[Chef]

Just came back from the shop where I had my drivers CV shaft changed - it was being replaced free under warranty. The mechanic and I took a look underside while I shook a wheel back and forth at 9 and 3. A rattle noise seems to come from the rack, and the inner tie-rods appear tight. Basically a new rack would need to be in order afterall.

 

Rear bushings look pretty worn, front ok. Exhaust needs fixing, tons of small holes. Front and Rear quarters rusting out, were refinished before I bought the car and deteriorated rapidly afterwards. Look fine at a distance, not so pretty up close. Brakes shudder when pressed sometimes. Some excess vibrations while idling, so probably motor/trans mounts. Intermittent torque-bind and knocking noise from oil pan.

 

But, she drives great otherwise, and I'd feel almost ashamed letting the car go. Interior looks great! If it was my second car, and I owned a house and a garage, I'd keep it to fix it up and drive around or for the wifey. But I'm barely living in one place as it is, and therefore one car is all I can hold onto.

 

So, I will check out this car, and if it goes well, it will be mine, oh yes.

 

NOw, a list of things to check:

 

Oil in coolant

Overheating while driving

Oil colour/level

Transmission fluid level

Slipping clutch

Rust...

Suspension (lean, roll, dive)

Brakes (stop ok, shudder, etc)

Smoothness of Shifting

 

Anything else anyone here care to mention.

 

I'm a bit excited.

[cookie]

We know you know all the common problems, heck you had most of them. Just be calm when you look at it and get a warranty or in writing that you can return it if it is not as represented.

[Chef]

We know you know all the common problems, heck you had most of them. Just be calm when you look at it and get a warranty or in writing that you can return it if it is not as represented.

 

Hmm, that's a good advice. I suppose I'm mostly concerned about the clutch and HG, so maybe they'll give me a short term warranty on those. The power train warranty these small used dealers give is usually terrible, and requires a large deductable, and doesn't cover things like HGs.

[1 Lucky Texan]

Just came back from the shop where I had my drivers CV shaft changed - it was being replaced free under warranty. The mechanic and I took a look underside while I shook a wheel back and forth at 9 and 3. A rattle noise seems to come from the rack, and the inner tie-rods appear tight. Basically a new rack would need to be in order afterall.

 

Rear bushings look pretty worn, front ok. Exhaust needs fixing, tons of small holes. Front and Rear quarters rusting out, were refinished before I bought the car and deteriorated rapidly afterwards. Look fine at a distance, not so pretty up close. Brakes shudder when pressed sometimes. Some excess vibrations while idling, so probably motor/trans mounts. Intermittent torque-bind and knocking noise from oil pan.

 

But, she drives great otherwise, and I'd feel almost ashamed letting the car go. Interior looks great! If it was my second car, and I owned a house and a garage, I'd keep it to fix it up and drive around or for the wifey. But I'm barely living in one place as it is, and therefore one car is all I can hold onto.

 

So, I will check out this car, and if it goes well, it will be mine, oh yes.

 

NOw, a list of things to check:

 

Oil in coolant

Overheating while driving

Oil colour/level

Transmission fluid level

Slipping clutch

Rust...

Suspension (lean, roll, dive)

Brakes (stop ok, shudder, etc)

Smoothness of Shifting

 

Anything else anyone here care to mention.

 

I'm a bit excited.

 

I dunno, examine the CV boots, maybe have someone drive away from you and try to see if it 'crab walks' down the road. Look under the carpet and in the spare tire well for sand ( flood car?) Look around for overspray from bodywork.

 

Carl

[pheonix165]

you know a hg job is only 1800 cad at the dealership

[Chef]

Only?!

 

 

Of the seven cars I've owned I've only ever had one blow a head gasket, and it was a plymouth sundance - notorious for it, but at $350, a lot cheaper than the subes.

 

External leaks on the phase 2 engines sound nearly ubiquitous through very unscientific google searches. Definitely making me hesitant...

[cookie]

But with an external leak it works fine if you keep water in it. The owner of my car went across the US twice. She said she always had to add a bit of water every month when she opened the hood, but she had no idea why.

Right now I'm running the Subie goop and 03 head gaskets and it has not required any antifreeze since 03.

[Chef]

I absolutely hate stop leak stuff, tends to clog heater cores and rads, making life frustrating. Maybe subaru's is bette, but even still...

 

Well folks, you're going to be disappointed, but I bought a car and it isn't a subaru. I decided to go with a very mint 2001 Ford Focus Wagon. Jet black in colour, a rare 5 spd, 112 km on the odometer. PW, PL, AC, CD, fog lights, roof rack - looks very sexy. Comes with 4 brand new snow tires too!

 

I know I chickened out, too scared of the head-gasket issue. But that wasn't the only reason. External leakage is more a PITA than a real problem. But I wanted something with a bit better mileage and cheaper replacement parts. It certainly isn't on par with subaru quality, but then again I didn't pay for a subaru.

 

They'll be taking my soob away, probably to be fixed up and sold for nearly the price I bought it for it a bit over year ago. Well, that's if they decide it's worth fixing. Turns out the knocking noise I heard from my drivers wheel well during acceleration isn't a CV joint - replacing it yesterday made no difference, and the possiblities are not friendly.

 

I will definitely frequent this place, and perhaps dispense the bits of wisdom I managed to absorb from this compendium of subaru ingenuity and knowledge. Thanks everyone for the invaluable advice, patience, and candour. You guys really do rock!

[cookie]

I guess they also lost Chef from South Park but he continues. Good choice for you right now, and when you become a celebrity chef you can buy another Subie.

[Chef]

I'll still troll around here, I love the subaru company too much to disappear altogether!

[cookie]

You can buy an old one and restore it in your spare time!

[1 Lucky Texan]

You can buy an old one and restore it in your spare time!

 

good idea!

 

or build one of these;

 

http://www.meyersmanx.com/

 

 

Carl

[john in KY]

My advice is to repair your current car. At least you know what is wrong with it. As for that "rod knock", failing rod/crankshaft bearings don't sometimes make noise. The sound is always there and it only quickly gets worse. Another reason is you will be spending all your money on the 2000 with unknown problems. Something will certainly fail on the 2000 before you pay it off and what will you use for money when that day arrives? I once drove a then 20-year old 63 Comet for 6 years and 100K miles because money then was tight. I guess I sort of bonded with the pile of crap because I still own it and have it stored in a barn in Ohio.

 

edit: This is what happens when I don't first read all the posts.

[subeman90]

don't forget to factor in that the 2000 legacy is going to need a t-belt soon. Factor in the cost of that too!

[Chef]

good idea!

 

or build one of these;

 

http://www.meyersmanx.com/

 

 

Carl

 

That looks awesome! Someday maybe...

 

I'd consider keeping my legacy and rebuilding it (while driving my new focus), but the problem is that I don't have a garage to work in, finding used 1990-94 parts are a pain here, and I am writing my masters thesis part-time while working 55 hours per week (or trying to anyways). I would some day love to take on that kind of project, but I really can't right now.

 

I figure I could probably fix the soob up for not too much money, but in the mean time I need a reliable car for my 180 km daily commutes!