Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

power windows


Recommended Posts

i have a 1989 gl with a somewhat strange problem. a couple of weeks ago all of my power windows stopped working except the driver's side, every once in a great while one of them will work a little and then stop again. i was wondering if anybody out there would have an opinion on what might be the problem. these are the first power windows i have ever owned and i'm beginning to think its an option i might not ever want again. i've been a member of this forum for about a month now and have found out a lot of things about these little cars. i have never owned a subaru before and this one kinda fell out of the sky on me unexpectedly. its a gl sedan with a five speed, four wheel drive, and low miles and i plan to keep her til she dies so any help i could get would be well apprieciated:D .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It`s Easy! (Well... I Hope So) :)

 

It sounds to me like you have a Damaged Relay Switch, or a Corroed connections on it. Just see it and Replace it if nessesary.

 

It is Located Under the Passeger`s Front Seat, near the Safety Belt Base. You need to pull the floor`s Rug, and see it.

 

I did have the Same problem with my White Subie, about two monts ago, so I did Replace the Subaru`s Weird Relay, with a fresh Bosch Relay (They are Standard and between 30 or 40 Amps, Subie ones are just 20 amps), and to make connections easy, I did obtain a Standard Relay`s Connection plug from a automotive Hardware Store.

 

Also I did the Same with the Three relays of the Air Conditioneer; two on the Engine Room and one under (Behind) the Fuse box on the Driver`s side. and everythings works Fine!

 

Also with the Bosch Standard Relay, power windows works more powerful and faster. (The A/C Unit works better too)

 

Hope it will help ya... Good Luck! :burnout:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

loyale 2.7 turbo - you wouldnt have a part number for that Bosch relay would ya??

 

tclark - to elaborate on how to get to the relay -

1. remove front passenger seat, 4 - 12mm bolts

2. remove the plastic trim strip holding carpet down - 4 plastic screw type fasteners (unscrew w/phillips driver, then pop out the washer portion with a small flat blade driver - dont have to totally remove the screw portion, just undo about 1/4 inch or so)

3. pull back carpet to expose the relay(s) near the "B" pillar (removing the trim strip from the rear door area can make pulling the carpet back easier, but not necessary)

 

attaching a pic to show the relays exposed so you know what you are loking for...sorry its not real clear - cheap camera

 

Good luck with the windows. mine quit totally the other day - turned out to be a corroded connection in the passenger footwell.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

loyale 2.7 turbo - you wouldnt have a part number for that Bosch relay would ya??

Yes!

The Part Number is:

Bosch 0-332-019-150

Please Check out This Website about:

 

http://www.tessco.com/products/headerProductSearch.do?searchType=1&searchText=Bosch+Relay&searchField=1

 

Those are my Images of the Bosch Relay:

 

Bosch Relay plus Socket:

 

BoschRelaySocket.jpg

 

Bosch Relay & Box:

 

BoschRelay-UpperBox.jpg

 

Bosch Relay Pins:

(Remember 87a Isn`t Used in any place of the Subies, it is for "Alternative Redirection" of the Current only. For Example in ON position, current goes to place "A" -that`s the Pin 87- and in OFF, Current Goes to Place "B" -That`s Pin 87a- ... Just Forget about it... )

 

BoschRelay-Under.jpg

 

This is a Basic Diagram, to Understand how to Connect the new Socket to the Existing Cables.

You`ll need a Soldering Iron to Weld them if you got a Socket that carries the Cables, if not, you`ll need just to put the pins in the Right order into the new Socket; taken them from the Old one. (The Original Subie One)

RelayCircuits.jpg

 

 

In this Drawin` You`ll see the Places "A" and "B", as a Yellow and Green Lights, but is just for Reference. Use Only pin 87 to ON position output.

 

If you haven`t it Clear, got a Multitester, and test:

  • wich one of the Original Subie Socket Cables, is Always On with Positive Current; it goes to the 30 Pin.


  • The one that cames from the Power Window`s Switch, goes to the 85 pin.


  • The Grounded one, goes to the 86 pin.


  • And the Output goes to the 87.

    :)


Hoping that will help ya all...

 

Best Regards.

 

:burnout:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks to 2.7 turbo and heartless for the info. i now have all four windows going up and down just like new.:banana: i really appreciate your taking the time to help me out. thanks guys.

 

I´m Very Happy to know that you got fix the Power Windows problem.

:)

If there is Anything I can do for you or any other member, I´m glad to help you.

Also, this was My Nº 100 Post :banana: And Keep it goin´ :headbang:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Wow! I just got my Bandit Wagon home,('91 Loyale 4WD 5spd) and Viola'! The drivers window works kinda slow, and the other 3 do not work at all! So, instead of posting an annoying question that has been asked 10 times already, I did a search. I found this thread! I'll try what 2.7 suggested, and I'll bet I 'll have 4 working windows in no time! I've also got sticky remote mirrors, and door locks. But 1 thing at a time!

 

Thanks!

Fat Tony - http://www.smashbandits.com :headbang:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 14 years later...

I am completely new to trying this, so any help is appreciated. I just ordered all 4 new/remanufactured window motors and the Bosch relay noted above for my 85 GL wagon. Do I need the socket part as well?

If so, got a good reference link or part number for it?

I only need one relay, right?

Also, a brief rundown of all points to apply grease would be great.  And lastly, any removal instructions or tips on getting the window assembly out of the door would help too. Thanks.

Edited by Checkerboard Comet
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a 1986 GL wagon that I bought new and the original power windows' actuators are still working. The two in the back are kinda' iffy but I'm sure it's from decades of dogs drooling down into the window slots.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/18/2020 at 8:57 PM, Checkerboard Comet said:

I am completely new to trying this, so any help is appreciated. I just ordered all 4 new/remanufactured window motors and the Bosch relay noted above for my 85 GL wagon. Do I need the socket part as well?

If so, got a good reference link or part number for it?

I only need one relay, right?

Also, a brief rundown of all points to apply grease would be great.  And lastly, any removal instructions or tips on getting the window assembly out of the door would help too. Thanks.

 

I bet this Writeup will be useful info for you:

~► https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/87523-how-to-swap-the-old-roundie-relays-with-standard-bosch-relays/

 

Yes, you'll need the relay's Socket as well.

May I ask, regarding your user name: Do you own a Mercury Comet?

Sorry for the offtopicness...

Kind Regards.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/19/2020 at 6:33 PM, Subarule said:

I have a 1986 GL wagon that I bought new and the original power windows' actuators are still working. The two in the back are kinda' iffy but I'm sure it's from decades of dogs drooling down into the window slots.

Lubricate properly the Windows' Mechanism, plus use electronic contacts' Cleaner spray on the switches.

Kind Regards.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, Subarule said:

How?

To Lubricate the Mechanism, I use two spray cans with different lubrication:

one is premium penetrating & lube oil, the other is white lithium grease.

First I use the penetrating oil to dissolve dirt which ussualy turns into mud with years and dust there...

After cleansing with a cloth, I use the white lithium grease to leave a lubricating layer.

Easy cleansing method for the switch, consists in remove the power windows' switch from the car, then having it horizontally, you press with a finger one side while spray inside the other side, the electronic contacts' cleaner; then repeat with the other side; finally you flip the switch and shake it violently, repeat two or three times so the cleaner gets to the dirty contacts inside and remove the crud... That method requires that you wear safety gogles to avoid spray in your eyes... however nothing beats disassembling the switch to get inside and deeply clean its internals.

I hope this helps you. Kind Regards.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Like saying "to change Sparkplugs, you'll need to open the hood First"  ...


 

So, After both areas cleansing, some power windows' problems get fixed, without needing a Relay swap...

You swap it only if needed after the Cleansing.

Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Comet is just a nickname I got from early message boards from years ago, nope....don't own the car itself.

So I picked up everything i think I'm going to need now to give this a try, the motors showed up yesterday as did the relay (both parts).

 

As for the switches, i got 4 sets of them as spares, and all of them are as clean as when they were new....lol.

Edited by Checkerboard Comet
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/28/2020 at 12:39 PM, silverhelme said:

Why not? I used dual  SU's on my '64 Mini Cooper.

 

11 hours ago, Loyale 2.7 Turbo said:

OK :D I thought it was pretty obvious...

Not to me. I'm a female who's nearly 80 and I don't work on cars myself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...