Lookin into droping an ej22 in my brat...

[Mr. Carb]

So, I decided I'm hooked on this ej22 idea... I want to EJ the brat. I've been lookin around the board at how to do it. I'm kind of trying to gauge at what kind of project I'd be getting my self into and what all am I going to need to do this.

 

heres what I know so far... Need to get the ecu, and associated wireing for the ecu and the engine... ea82 d/r 5spd tranny is the tranny of my choice, I know it needs an adaptor plate.

 

What I'm wondering is... Would I be able to wire up the stock instrument cluster to everything on the ej22? like, coolant temp, tach, oil pressure, etc....

 

also, trying to figure out what I have to do for a clutch/flywheel?

 

If all this is do-able, I'm pretty excited about it... I'm trying to plan this out now, this will probably be a mid-late summer project.

[Ratty2Austin]

the temp guage and oil pressure are pretty easy...the EJs sender works with the dash in the EA (with slight changes...)

 

if you can find a threaded adaptor with an angle or something to get the EA pressure sender onto the EJ sender fitting, then your set... (its under the alternator on the EJ22) as for the temp sender.. on my EJ swap it seemed to be offset..(it still read, it just read cold?) but it works, or you could just install your EA sensor into the EJ water manifold...

 

the tach is something different though.. on the EA car it runs off the disty, so you would need to make a pickup sensor or something and attach it to plug wire 1 (like a sensor in a timing gun/light)

 

...or get the aftermarket tach thats larger than your dash cluster

[88HatchMonster]

Some of that info may be a little off, Austin...

 

The EJ oil pressure sender triggers an idiot light, so it's not compatible with the EA81 gauge. You can plumb in an EA81 sender with several adapters and a section of flexible hose with AN fittings.

 

The temp gauge does read cooler than normal if you hook up the EJ sender. This can be remedied by welding a bung for an EA81 temp sender into a section of steel tubing and putting this inline in your upper radiator hose. the tubing must be grounded for the gauge to work.

 

The EA81 tach runs off of the coil, but this doesn't really matter... the EJ ECU has a pin that will wire right into your EA81 guage. It works perfectly. If your Brat has an ECU... first throw it in the garbage, second find the yellow wire on the larger harness. That's your tach wire.

 

Flywheel: any EA82 4WD (must be redrilled for the EJ bolt pattern)

 

Pressure Plate: XT6

 

Clutch: XT6

 

EDIT: Pictures added to illustrate descriptions above. Proof that you can run all of your stock guages with an EJ swap, no compromises.

 

 

 

 

 

[Brumby Boy]

Can you elongate the flywheel bolt holes rather than having a redrill??

[88HatchMonster]

Can you elongate the flywheel bolt holes rather than having a redrill??

 

Yes, they can be "ovalized" to match either by a machine shop with a milling machine, or do it yourself with a die grinder or dremel tool.

[Mr. Carb]

I love the pictures, However I'd put the temp sender in the heatercore hose so I can tell if the car is getting warm before the t-stat opens up to the radiator. ea81 turbos had their temp senders moved to the heater hose lines when the factory recall on the turbo chargers were done. I can see where if the t-stat stuck shut, I'd never be able to tell the engine is getting too hot until to late. Other than that, I love it. I'd imagine it'd wouldn't be too hard to find that t-fitting for the heater core hose and temp sender.

[Mr. Carb]

Yes, they can be "ovalized" to match either by a machine shop with a milling machine, or do it yourself with a die grinder or dremel tool.

 

MODs:Could this thread please be moved to the retrofitting forum? Feel free to delete this text.

 

Oh, geeze, I didn't realise I posted this in the wrong catogory! woops!

[88HatchMonster]

Actually on the EJ motors the T-stat is on the bottom before the lower radiator hose.

 

So no worries there, you see your temp go up as the engine warms up. Inline on the heatercore hose would probably be good too... especially if you don't have a lift, like I do.

 

 

I love the pictures, However I'd put the temp sender in the heatercore hose so I can tell if the car is getting warm before the t-stat opens up to the radiator. ea81 turbos had their temp senders moved to the heater hose lines when the factory recall on the turbo chargers were done. I can see where if the t-stat stuck shut, I'd never be able to tell the engine is getting too hot until to late. Other than that, I love it. I'd imagine it'd wouldn't be too hard to find that t-fitting for the heater core hose and temp sender.

[Mr. Carb]

Thats interesting, well, on the lower hose, yeah, the upper hose is on the t-stat so it wouldn't get any of the warm stuff until the t-stat opens. I'm curious if the orginal stock temp sender for the EJ22 gives off the same value that the ea81's do? would anyone know?

[NoahDL88]

88, what did you use for the metal part of the coolant hose? mine has a 1.25 inch pipe but it really necks down the flow to maybe only .75 of an inch, and yours is so much prettier.

 

What did the bits for the oil pressure sender cost you?

[NoahDL88]

I'm curious if the orginal stock temp sender for the EJ22 gives off the same value that the ea81's do? would anyone know?

 

 

My EJ runs at about a quarter up from the bottom, and when it hits 75 % i know its running real hot, so no, there different, but if you establish a baseline, then you can manage with it using the EJ22 sensor and the EA-8X gauge.

[88HatchMonster]

88, what did you use for the metal part of the coolant hose? mine has a 1.25 inch pipe but it really necks down the flow to maybe only .75 of an inch, and yours is so much prettier.

 

What did the bits for the oil pressure sender cost you?

 

It's 1" black iron pipe (O.D. more like 1 1/4"). I would have used some thinner walled tubing for a little bit more flow but the hardware store was way closer than the steel mill. My bottom rad hose is also two peice, to join that I used a 1 1/4" plastic union also from the hardware store. I would recommend using that if you don't need to put in a temp sender.

 

The oil pressure hardware cost me about $45 total. There might be a way to run it with less adapters, but that was all I could figure out. If anyone's interested I can try to dig out my invoice on that stuff and I can get part #'s for the adapters and put you in touch with the supplier (Paragon Performance in CA). I tried getting all the stuff from jegs or summit, but some of the adapters are a little too specialized.

[Mr. Carb]

It's 1" black iron pipe (O.D. more like 1 1/4"). I would have used some thinner walled tubing for a little bit more flow but the hardware store was way closer than the steel mill. My bottom rad hose is also two peice, to join that I used a 1 1/4" plastic union also from the hardware store. I would recommend using that if you don't need to put in a temp sender.

 

The oil pressure hardware cost me about $45 total. There might be a way to run it with less adapters, but that was all I could figure out. If anyone's interested I can try to dig out my invoice on that stuff and I can get part #'s for the adapters and put you in touch with the supplier (Paragon Performance in CA). I tried getting all the stuff from jegs or summit, but some of the adapters are a little too specialized.

 

I'll be doing this as a summer project so I am interested in setting this up in such a way. I'm interested in knowing about this supplyer Thanks again!

[88HatchMonster]

The supplier for the oil line and fittings is Paragon Performance in Lake Arrowhead, CA.

 

http://www.paragonperformance.com/

 

I got them to fax me the invoice but all it had are descriptions, no part numbers, anyway, here goes:

 

 

8" -04 female st. to st. Teflon hose assembly.............$13.10

 

#4 st. male, AN flare to 10mm x 1.0.......................$11.15

 

-04 Alum. Straight AN to 1/8" NPT Adapter.................$2.10

 

Alum. pipe bushing, 3/8"/1/8".............................$9.10

 

Alum. pipe coupler, 3/8"..................................$9.65

 

 

Note that 8" of hose was barely enough to get the sender positioned where I have it. Depending on where you want to mount it you may want to order a longer hose.

 

Their entire line of adapters is on the website, it just takes some poking around to find them all. They also make custom stainless lines, in whatever length and with whatever connectors you want, I had some made for my three-wheeler, they're very nice and not too pricey either. I'm pretty sure you can get DOT approved lines as well.

[ballitch]

if oyu can find some sort of heat and oil prrof sealant that wont screw up the motor you can do what i did. kind of ghetto but it works, just leaks oil out the oil pressure sender. if you look closely at the EJ oil pres. sender it has 2 parts, one threads into the block, and the other is the oil pres. sensor, and it threads into the plug that threads into the block...catch all of that? i dont have any pics so im sorry. but my point is that you CAN screw the EA sender into the EJ block as long as you remove the EJ-oil sender-plug-thingy. once you do that the thread pitch is the same, but the diameter is off a little bit, just enough to tighten it down, but not enough to seal it. what i plan to do is make a sort of "T" so i can use both the EJ sensor and the EA sender. although i dont reccomend this, it does work, im just too lazy right now to fix it the right way, got bigger fish to fry.

 

~Josh~

[Subarutex]

So... to break this down for the dumb... like me,

 

10mm x 1.0 is the fitting size of the place on the block (is there one on the oil pump too, like the EA82?)

 

Alum. pipe coupler, 3/8" so... 3/8" pipe thread is what the pres. senders is, right? Is this the same as an EA82? I'm assuming it is...

 

Do I have all that right?

[88HatchMonster]

So... to break this down for the dumb... like me,

 

10mm x 1.0 is the fitting size of the place on the block (is there one on the oil pump too, like the EA82?)

 

Alum. pipe coupler, 3/8" so... 3/8" pipe thread is what the pres. senders is, right? Is this the same as an EA82? I'm assuming it is...

 

Do I have all that right?

 

Yeah, I think you've got it all right.

 

The EJ's just have one fitting for oil pressure. Like Josh said above, there is a fitting that threads into the block for the stock sender, that has a 10mm x 1.0 output... that's where you start with the adapters.

 

The last two aluminum adapters that are on the list could probably be found in brass at a hardware store for a little cheaper.