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Separator plate, VC seal, seat cushion 99 Legacy Outback wagon


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Hello all, first time poster, but no stranger to vbbulletin boards. I joined up today after doing some internet searches regarding separator plate. While I'm here, I thought I'd ask about a couple other things too.

 

I have a 1999 Outback wagon, 2.5L, automatic, with 109K miles. About 2 weeks ago, I (the car, atcually) developed a considerable oil leak. I don't like oil leaks and pride myself for maintaining my cars so they don't leak.

 

Back in January, I finally had my timing belt replaced. There were no leaks at that time.

 

At first, I was wondering if the leak could be related to the work (bolt left untensioned, etc.). Today, I go for state inspection (passed no probs) and diagnosis for the leak. They (Subaru dealer) come back and say 25% of the leak is the right valve cover seal, the other 75% is the separator plate. I ask to see the car on the lift, and the info looks to be on the up and up.

 

I did not agree to fix it at this time (No money, been mostly unemployed for almost 3 years), and went online to research. What I found is so contrary to what I had previously thought about Subaru...but then, it is the Internet.

 

Ok, sorry about the long intro, here are some questions:

 

1) One of my search results here mentioned dropping the trannie to do the separator plate, my dealer told me they have to pull the engine.

 

Which is it? Drop trannie or pull engine? Or is this the same thing?

 

2) My driver seat cushion is kaput, again. I think I replaced it twice under warranty. I just don't have the ducats to spend 185plus to have the dealer do it again. And from what I read, the junkyard seats might be just as bad. What is a good replacement seat for a 99 outback wagon with heated cushions? I live in NH, and I am not living without heated seats.

 

3) this question might sound a little contentious, so please bear with me. When the timing belt was repaced, would it have been a simple matter for my subaru dealer to replace the plastic separator plate with a metal one, instead of leaving it in there, to fail 3 months later? I just spent 650 bucks (not all on the timing belt, just so you know) I didn't really have in January, now they are telling me another 800 to do the the valve cover seal and sep plate.

 

4)which brings me to the driver side head gasket, should I have it replaced as long as they have the engine out and it is easier to work on?

 

Has anybody had any success in letting their dealership know that you are aware of these issues, and tried asking for a little relief in the $$?

 

Sorry about all the questions. I'm going to an independent mechanic tomorrow for a diagnosis/estimate. Thanks in advance for any replies.

 

Hey, and what about those roof racks? Am I the only one who doesn't use them and think they are just acting like sails grabbing the gusts of wind and making my car seem as stable as a sheet of plywood balancing on a bowling ball?

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You can either pull the engine or the trans to get at the oil seperator plate. No the dealer would not have done this as it would add to the cost of the front engine work.

 

If you pull the engine for the HG or clutch if its a standard trans, then yes a good shop would do it.

 

You may want to try the WRX seats, lots of them at nasioc.com site.

 

As for the HG if it isn't broke don't fix it. You may get past the inspection if you clean everything down real well, you could even stick a pie plate up there to grab the oil. Just make sure you do not run out of oil.

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1) One of my search results here mentioned dropping the trannie to do the separator plate, my dealer told me they have to pull the engine.

 

Which is it? Drop trannie or pull engine? Or is this the same thing?

I think the right way is to pull the engine. The cheaper way - drop tranny, but requires some extra tools.

2) My driver seat cushion is kaput, again. I think I replaced it twice under warranty. I just don't have the ducats to spend 185plus to have the dealer do it again. And from what I read, the junkyard seats might be just as bad. What is a good replacement seat for a 99 outback wagon with heated cushions? I live in NH, and I am not living without heated seats.

They say WRX seats are good...As well as 2.5RS. Haven't tried myself.

3) this question might sound a little contentious, so please bear with me. When the timing belt was repaced, would it have been a simple matter for my subaru dealer to replace the plastic separator plate with a metal one, instead of leaving it in there, to fail 3 months later? I just spent 650 bucks (not all on the timing belt, just so you know) I didn't really have in January, now they are telling me another 800 to do the the valve cover seal and sep plate.

I think they could not have done it then.

800 seems a little steep. I plan to have sep. plate replaced when my clutch dies, and the whole clutch job should be no more than 500. But 800 for that in a stealership does not sound unusual.

 

Got nothing to say on 4.

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The oil seperator plate is on the rear of the engine between the engine and the flywheel/drive plate. It is the shiny new aluminum piece to the right of the crankshaft in this photo. It replaced the once leaking black plastic one.

 

 

IMG_0750.jpg

 

How they could diagnose the oil seperator plate leaking vs. the crankshaft rear main seal is beyond me. Possibly "the odds are" that it is the seperator plate.

 

Either way, the engine has to be seperated from the transmission to replace it, and it wouldn't be a part of the "usual" timing belt replacement job.

 

IF you are going to replace the head gaskets, do both sides of the engine. It would really suck to have the new headgasket wipe out the old headgasket on the other side of the engine.

 

Parts alone to do the timing belt/headgaskets/oil seals etc. etc. to "do it right" are going to cost you at least $800 or so from one of the online discount Subaru dealerships.

 

The roof rack cross members were the first thing to be removed from my 97 Outback wagon. If I wanted to be annoyed like I was driving an Xterror I would have bought an Xterror.:D

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thank you, everybody who has responded so far.

 

Ok, I feel a little better about the timing belt job now.

 

Good point on how do they 'know' it is the separator plate and not the crankshaft rear main seal? I'd be willing to bet they've done quite a few of them (sep plates), and know that plastic one is almost certainly failed at 109K.

 

Are those WXR seats OEM seats from Subaru, or are they aftermarket units? Ditto the RS seats?

 

Gee, after 7 years and 100 k plus miles, I finally realize I should have taken the cross members off the roof rack long ago:banghead:

 

thanks again.

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hey a97obw, great pic of the sep plate. what are the two "dowels" at the bottom of the engine? i see a pin about midway up on the right side. also, does anyone have part numbers for the plastic and aluminum plate in order to determine whether it is on a particular car? the sube parts listing may just show the superceded part number to the alum part.

 

thanks

 

99 leg l sedan 2.2l 5M 30th anniv.

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Here's a photo of the old plastic one vs. the new aluminum one. Don't have the part number handy.

 

The "dowels" you see on the bottom of the engine are the engine mounting studs that go through the bell housing of the transmission and then get a nut and washer to hold the engine to the transmission.

 

 

 

IMG_0736.jpg

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