No start on cold H-6.........

[friendly_jacek]

I don't know what kind of s***** scanner you tried.

Why don't you fork 100 bucks for something that actually works on subarus like http://www.obddiagnostics.com/

$100 in nothing compared with the money dealers or mechanics will take away from you.

[soobcollektor]

I am leading to believe that it is the scanner that is causing my no read codes problem, I'm taking it back and buying one somewhere else to see if that does anything.....I'm also going to start checking sensors and connectors to see if that helps anything. I'm going to disconnect the battery and see if reseting the ECU does anything also.

 

I'll see what I can do if I get a different scan tool and post back.

 

Thanks ~Tim

[1 Lucky Texan]

I am leading to believe that it is the scanner that is causing my no read codes problem, I'm taking it back and buying one somewhere else to see if that does anything.....I'm also going to start checking sensors and connectors to see if that helps anything. I'm going to disconnect the battery and see if reseting the ECU does anything also.

 

I'll see what I can do if I get a different scan tool and post back.

 

Thanks ~Tim

 

You could try an Autozone. They will read the codes at no charge (here) with their scanner. If it reads - you know the scanner you have is NFG and you will have some codes to run with. If it doesn't, well, you can pursue a different avenue.

 

thanx for keeping us informed.

 

Carl

[soobcollektor]

Ok so I bought the scanner at Autozone and heres what I got,

 

It actually pulled the codes, But I dont have the numbers cause I had no paper or pen and I was locked out of my dads house (where the car is) because I left my house key there the last time I was there...my luck sucks

 

There were 7 codes!!!

 

1...Some REALLY long code....Vehicle speed sensor and idle control curcuit something It was reaaaaly long though had alot of commas in it...sorry im going by memory it was a wierd number to like PO1325 or something it was longer.....maybe my mind has left me I dunno, if I heard it i'd know it

2- Idle to low

3 - Idle to high

4- Cylinder 1 Misfire

5- Cylinder 2 Misfire

6- Cylinder 3 Misfire

7- Cylinder 5 Misfire

 

 

I cleared them all and started the car and took it on a long Illegal test run and the light stayed off, the idle was somewhat stable at or around 650 or so but continued to die if you reved it up, (just gas it in park and let off and it doesnt settle back down it just stalls.) Still No CEL though. The other thing I noticed when I was driving it I cant get it to redline when I floor it, even from a dead stop If I hold it to the floor it shifts at 5400 rpm no matter what, It will redline though if I shift it manually.... :confused:

 

 

Any ideas.....

[1 Lucky Texan]

Ok so I bought the scanner at Autozone and heres what I got,

 

It actually pulled the codes, But I dont have the numbers cause I had no paper or pen and I was locked out of my dads house (where the car is) because I left my house key there the last time I was there...my luck sucks

 

There were 7 codes!!!

 

1...Some REALLY long code....Vehicle speed sensor and idle control curcuit something It was reaaaaly long though had alot of commas in it...sorry im going by memory it was a wierd number to like PO1325 or something it was longer.....maybe my mind has left me I dunno, if I heard it i'd know it

2- Idle to low

3 - Idle to high

4- Cylinder 1 Misfire

5- Cylinder 2 Misfire

6- Cylinder 3 Misfire

7- Cylinder 5 Misfire

 

 

I cleared them all and started the car and took it on a long Illegal test run and the light stayed off, the idle was somewhat stable at or around 650 or so but continued to die if you reved it up, (just gas it in park and let off and it doesnt settle back down it just stalls.) Still No CEL though. The other thing I noticed when I was driving it I cant get it to redline when I floor it, even from a dead stop If I hold it to the floor it shifts at 5400 rpm no matter what, It will redline though if I shift it manually.... :confused:

 

 

Any ideas.....

 

I'd 'guess' the misfires 'might' follow from the 'idle control circuit' being bad. A LOT depends on the history of this car. IIRC you said it was ina flood. Well, if someone tried to start and run it while the engine compartment was still wet - yeah, you're gonna get misfire codes. And once they are set, they might not get cleared for a while if some other issue continues to cause the car to run poorly.

 

maybe someone here can tell you how to test the Idle Air Control motor/whatever. I would definitely start there. I also would maybe drive the car 3-4 drive cycles, see if it runs better, and have the codes read again, anything that shoes definitely would be helpful.

 

Still quite possible corrosion has begun to eat at some connectors/wiring. Thsi car may never be reliable.

 

Carl

[soobcollektor]

Im thinking IAC motor or Valve also.....

 

Ive really gone over this car and I dont see any signs of water in the interior so I really dont know, I got the car cheap so I expect it to be somewhat troublesome but I really don't see signs of water and I've checked EVERYWHERE.

 

Any other ideas....where is the IAC located on these things?

 

Thanks for all the help everyone I really appreciate it....Tim

[1 Lucky Texan]

Im thinking IAC motor or Valve also.....

 

Ive really gone over this car and I dont see any signs of water in the interior so I really dont know, I got the car cheap so I expect it to be somewhat troublesome but I really don't see signs of water and I've checked EVERYWHERE.

 

Any other ideas....where is the IAC located on these things?

 

Thanks for all the help everyone I really appreciate it....Tim

 

I dunno exactly what the throttle body setup is like, even though my wife has an '03 - never had to dive into it like you are. There was a thread a few months back about the IAC - it evidently is easy to screw up. Try the 'search' function.

 

If the car never becomes reliable, it might make a good 'parts' car. Just clean, refurb,inspect anything that comes off of it before transplanting!

 

Carl

[soobcollektor]

I hope it gets running better, it drives absolutley amazing......i'll look for it (the IAC) but the H-6 is soooo different than the 4.

 

Anyone have any diagrams or information on the EZ30?

 

~tim

[1 Lucky Texan]

I hope it gets running better, it drives absolutley amazing......i'll look for it (the IAC) but the H-6 is soooo different than the 4.

 

Anyone have any diagrams or information on the EZ30?

 

~tim

 

this might be helpful - I dunno;

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781242

 

and you can download manuals here;

http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/index.jsp

 

Carl

1 Lucky Texan

[soobcollektor]

this might be helpful - I dunno;

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781242

 

and you can download manuals here;

http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/index.jsp

 

Carl

1 Lucky Texan

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks I'll get under the hood today and poke around,

 

Noone has any servie manuals or diagrams for the H-6 3.0?

 

Thanks Tim

[Cougar]

I have a manual for my '01 which I think will be close to your model year.

 

According to the manual and if I see things correctly, it appears the throttle cables tie to the throttle body on the left side of the TB as looking from the front of the vehicle. Using the throttle cables as a reference you should see a wire connector going to a sensor just in front of the throttle control. This is the MAP sensor. The device on the right front side of the TB is the IAC solenoid. The sensor on the right side of the TB is the TPS.

 

Along with the IAC I would check the TPS to see if that has a problem. It may have a dirty contact that is causing problems. Checking the resistance of the wiper contact with a ohmmeter may show up a problem in the idle area of the sensor pot.

 

Getting back to the talk about OBD-2 scanners. From what I understand, Subaru uses the ISO-9141 protocol.

[soobcollektor]

Thanks, i'll go check it out today and post what I find, what should I use to clean them with? Brake Cleaner? Carb Cleaner?

 

Thanks....

Tim

[Cougar]

If the contacts aren't totally sealed you could use some WD-40 but contact cleaner would be better. Some spray cleaners can damage certain plastics so be carefull if using one.

[soobcollektor]

Ok so I just got back from playing with the H-6

 

I managed to locate the IACV but I have no idea what bit it takes to remove it, I tried torx but that didnt seem to work, is it allen, torx, star or what?

 

Maybe I just had the wrong size I dunno, But Id really like to know what size/type they are before I go stripping the heads off,

 

Also just for fun I disconnected the sensor completely and tried to start it and it acted the same way....could this really be it, just a simple cleaning of the IAC?

 

 

Thanks---Tim

[Cougar]

I'm not sure. Is there a metic star available? I would check the TPS first.

[soobcollektor]

I GOT IT!!!!

 

I disassembled the IACV, actually removing the entire unit from the throttle body then seperating the IAC from the valve body and cleaned it all up, It was actually frozen in place and wouldnt move.

 

Car runs 100% better now, I will say that it is running somewhat rough but maybe the TPS and other sensors need cleaning also.

 

 

Thanks everyone for the help on this long post....I greatly appreciate it.

 

~Tim

[Cougar]

Good deal. Thanks for the update.

[1 Lucky Texan]

I GOT IT!!!!

 

I disassembled the IACV, actually removing the entire unit from the throttle body then seperating the IAC from the valve body and cleaned it all up, It was actually frozen in place and wouldnt move.

 

Car runs 100% better now, I will say that it is running somewhat rough but maybe the TPS and other sensors need cleaning also.

 

 

Thanks everyone for the help on this long post....I greatly appreciate it.

 

~Tim

 

COOL!!!!

 

 

Carl

[2X2KOB]

It will gradually run better as the ECU re-learns the engine parameters and makes fine adjustments. I'm glad you found the problem!

[cookie]

Great! Man are you lucky that was all it was. I was think of taking the whole car apart and cleaning every electrical thing before you were done.

[soobcollektor]

I looked at a few electrical connectors under the hood while I was in there and they all appeared to be as good as new looking, the contacts looked fine and I saw no corrosion on any of them. So hopefully that means the car didnt get very wet...never will be 100% sure though

 

 

As far as the rough running, it just seems to be idling a bit rough, It runs/drives fine, and starts up fine, just is slightly rough at idle but does seem to somewhat correct itself when it does it?

 

Could it just need a simple tune up, Plugs (cant wait to change them,they just look so easy to change on an H-6)

 

Maybe some fuel injector cleaner and a throttle bod/top end clean, maybe some seafoam?

 

What else should I change or tune up while Im under there?

 

~Tim

[1 Lucky Texan]

I looked at a few electrical connectors under the hood while I was in there and they all appeared to be as good as new looking, the contacts looked fine and I saw no corrosion on any of them. So hopefully that means the car didnt get very wet...never will be 100% sure though

 

 

As far as the rough running, it just seems to be idling a bit rough, It runs/drives fine, and starts up fine, just is slightly rough at idle but does seem to somewhat correct itself when it does it?

 

Could it just need a simple tune up, Plugs (cant wait to change them,they just look so easy to change on an H-6)

 

Maybe some fuel injector cleaner and a throttle bod/top end clean, maybe some seafoam?

 

What else should I change or tune up while Im under there?

 

~Tim

 

I don't think I could trust any fluid not knowing the extent of the flooding. Brake fluid LOVES water - though the reservoir is far from the ground. After you cleaned the IAC - did you clear the ECU? might try that. Pretty much, after ANY emissions or aur/fuel components are altered you should do that. If there's a vent on top of the diff/tranny, exposure to cool water can cause those units to suck water in I think.

 

I dunno. so cool that it's doing so well, good work.

 

Carl